Tried to replace driver's axle assembly - Stuck!!!

T

tduy87

New member
Hello,

I've tried for the past two days to replace my driver's side axle assembly. When trying to remove half the remaining axle from the transmission housing, it will not come off. I have used multiple size pry bars, punch, chisel, it will not move an inch. I gave up on this and was wondering will it be okay for me to put the old axle back on and drive it <2 miles to a repair shop? I'm tired of fighting with this.

See videos below. I have the same problem as this guy. Fast foward to 6:40.

Installing A Brand New CV Axle On The Tc!!! - YouTube
 
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Get a long steel rod and a good dead blow, deliver a solid blow.
I just did the passenger side. I've also used a front end pickle fork but this axle tool the dead blow.
 
Take a pry bar or large flathead screwdriver. Put it between the dust seal and diff and pry against the diff. There's a c-clip that needs to dislodge for it to come loose. Once that moves it'll come right out.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 
What the other guys said.... Just work at it. A 3 lb maul might work better than a dead blow. The metal hammer to a metal drift will transfer the force better. FYI on that video: that guys axle didn't "break." The tripod end just slips into the inner housing. The only thing that holds it in is the dust boot (when the axle isn't installed in a car), which was ripped in the video.
 
Like what Montijo said, theres a c-clip that needs to be compressed within the diff for the axle to come out. I used a pry bar between the diff and CV, you may bend the dust shield, but that doesn't really matter if the old axle is toast.

I have a thread I made on CV axle replacement here that goes over my technique and entire replacement process: CV Replacement Tutorial with New Seals (120+ Pictures)

Heres the excerpt on the CV removal:
I was able to remove the CV from the differential with this dinky little pry bar, your mileage may vary. A kinetic CV lasso is probably the best tool for the job, but I've seen this technique used in my research. As long as you're mindful of the CV's dust shield prying between the CV inner joint and the differential should not cause damage. There will be a bit of movement already, but we need to pry it out enough to unseat the internal C-clip.


After the internal C-clip has unseated and the axle is free to slide outward, I hit the pry bar in one of the grooves on the inner joint. This allowed the axle to be removed further, without separating the inner joint and dropping its grease everywhere.
 
If you have an auto parts store that rents tools, pick up a pair of axle popper forks. There is a shim fork and a tapered fork for prying. Just pound it in and pop goes the axle. Simplest method by far for removing axles, so much so that I purchased a set for myself. Turns a 2 hour job into 45 minutes.
Amazon.com: OEM TOOLS 27305 Axle Popper Kit (Fork & Shim) | Fork & Shim Axle Popper Tool Remove Most Vehicles’ Half-Shaft Drive Axles w/No Damage & Limited Effort | Fix Damaged CV Joints at Home or in The Shop: Automotive
 
I've had good luck using 2 pry bars (or 2 larger flathead screwdrivers) to apply equal force to both sides - normally pops out.

Another option would be to get paracord, tie a small loop on one end, feed the cord through to make a larger loop, then slip that larger loop over the shaft, pull it tight, and then give it a good yank. You can buy pre-fashioned ones that also give you a bit of a handle....

Either way, the idea is to use equal force the whole way around to get it to pop out.
 
Lots of good info here, one other tidbit is sometimes you need to spin the shaft 90 degrees or so if it won't pop off. That puts the pressure on a different area of the circlip. I can usually get these out fairly quickly with a steel bar and my 3lb hammer, I put the bar with as little angle as possible against the thick end and give it a couple whacks. If no go spin the axle some and try again.
 
Not to hijack the thread but how much should the CV axle replacements for both sides be? I'm looking at buying a 2009 that needs both sides done and the front rotors and pads and the shop is quoting about 650ish for parts whereas when I take it back to the dealer they are saying all the parts listed are only 150 and I should buy the parts and take it to the shop and they will pay for the labor. He showed me cv axles listed online for $50 each and where I'm looking at online its looking more like 400-500. Any ideas?
 
jlyles said:
Not to hijack the thread but how much should the CV axle replacements for both sides be? I'm looking at buying a 2009 that needs both sides done and the front rotors and pads and the shop is quoting about 650ish for parts whereas when I take it back to the dealer they are saying all the parts listed are only 150 and I should buy the parts and take it to the shop and they will pay for the labor. He showed me cv axles listed online for $50 each and where I'm looking at online its looking more like 400-500. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

OEM 4th gen axles are about $350 a piece. 5th gen axles will fit too and are around $310 a piece (Looked this week, prices could change) with better inner boots. Both these prices are from McGeorge Toyota. Oddly enough, they're usually cheaper to buy online and ship than pick up in person. Cheap axles tend to bind at lifted angles and when turning sharply, so they're not really worth it. Especially for $50, they're probably pretty crappy. CVJ makes re-manufactured Toyota OEM axles, but they're really not worth it here on the east coast because of the shipping. $200+$95 core deposit+$36 shipping+$36 core return-$95 core refund = $275. The extra $35 from the dealer would be worth it to not have to deal with the core stuff.

It shouldn't take a qualified technician any more than 1.5 hours to replace and entire CV, the differential seal, and knuckle seal. It took me about 1:50 to replace one on my first time while also taking pictures for the writeup, so a real technician should be able to do it much faster.

See my CV axle writeup for all parts needed. Some things like the axle nut and retainer can be reused, the only thing you really need is the CV and optionally the diff seal and knuckle seal. Even if you're not replacing it yourself, reading the writeup and getting familiar with the process will help to understand everything: CV Replacement Tutorial with New Seals (120+ Pictures)

What parts list do you have that the dealer costs less to buy from?
 
y=mx+b said:
OEM 4th gen axles are about $350 a piece. 5th gen axles will fit too and are around $310 a piece (Looked this week, prices could change) with better inner boots. Both these prices are from McGeorge Toyota. Oddly enough, they're usually cheaper to buy online and ship than pick up in person. Cheap axles tend to bind at lifted angles and when turning sharply, so they're not really worth it. Especially for $50, they're probably pretty crappy. CVJ makes re-manufactured Toyota OEM axles, but they're really not worth it here on the east coast because of the shipping. $200+$95 core deposit+$36 shipping+$36 core return-$95 core refund = $275. The extra $35 from the dealer would be worth it to not have to deal with the core stuff.

It shouldn't take a qualified technician any more than 1.5 hours to replace and entire CV, the differential seal, and knuckle seal. It took me about 1:50 to replace one on my first time while also taking pictures for the writeup, so a real technician should be able to do it much faster.

See my CV axle writeup for all parts needed. Some things like the axle nut and retainer can be reused, the only thing you really need is the CV and optionally the diff seal and knuckle seal. Even if you're not replacing it yourself, reading the writeup and getting familiar with the process will help to understand everything: CV Replacement Tutorial with New Seals (120+ Pictures)

What parts list do you have that the dealer costs less to buy from?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the lengthy write up! Looks like the dealer is just trying jip me honestly. Basically its a small local dealer that has a 4runner I want but before buying I took it to a shop who found both the cv axles need to be replaced along with the front rotors and a few other minor things. I took their quote back to the dealer who then starts looking up the parts online and says well right here you can get a cv axle for $50 bucks! So they priced out all the parts for around 150-200 and said they would reimburse me 400 for the labor cause I could just buy the parts and then take them to the shop. The shops quote including labor and parts was more like $1100.
 
jlyles said:
Thanks for the lengthy write up! Looks like the dealer is just trying jip me honestly. Basically its a small local dealer that has a 4runner I want but before buying I took it to a shop who found both the cv axles need to be replaced along with the front rotors and a few other minor things. I took their quote back to the dealer who then starts looking up the parts online and says well right here you can get a cv axle for $50 bucks! So they priced out all the parts for around 150-200 and said they would reimburse me 400 for the labor cause I could just buy the parts and then take them to the shop. The shops quote including labor and parts was more like $1100.
Click to expand...

Gotcha, I was thinking it was a full on Toyota Dealership. You're on the right track with your thoughts, the small dealer will put the cheapest parts they can on there to maximize their profits. A $50 CV is going to be crappy, probably tear the boots pretty soon, and bind up turning on the street. I don't have experience with parts store axles, but word on the street is the OEM axles are miles better than any aftermarket options with NAPA HD as a distant follower. I'm not sure if my axles are originals, but I pulled an OEM axle out at 210k miles and put another OEM axle back in. Especially if you don't wheel, it would probably be the last CV you had to replace.
 
y=mx+b said:
Gotcha, I was thinking it was a full on Toyota Dealership. You're on the right track with your thoughts, the small dealer will put the cheapest parts they can on there to maximize their profits. A $50 CV is going to be crappy, probably tear the boots pretty soon, and bind up turning on the street. I don't have experience with parts store axles, but word on the street is the OEM axles are miles better than any aftermarket options with NAPA HD as a distant follower. I'm not sure if my axles are originals, but I pulled an OEM axle out at 210k miles and put another OEM axle back in. Especially if you don't wheel, it would probably be the last CV you had to replace.
Click to expand...
Have the dealership provide the parts for $150-$200 lol

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montijo505 said:
Have the dealership provide the parts for $150-$200 lol
Click to expand...

If they provided OEM axles for $150-$200 then that would be a steal lol. Sounds like its a used car dealership, not a Toyota Dealership, thats gonna give $50 CVs and some bottom of the line brake parts for $200.

Unless I read something wrong?
 
y=mx+b said:
If they provided OEM axles for $150-$200 then that would be a steal lol. Sounds like its a used car dealership, not a Toyota Dealership, thats gonna give $50 CVs and some bottom of the line brake parts for $200.

Unless I read something wrong?
Click to expand...

Yea no you're exactly right, it's a used car dealership trying to maximize profits. If it was a toyota dealership they probably would've just fixed it with oem parts and I'd be a happy new owner but I guess that's too much to ask from this other dealer. If I can get them to knock $1000 off I'll probably buy it and immediately drop it off at the shop that found the issue for me.

At this point I don't even want them to "fix" the issue themselves cause I'm sure it'll be with bottom-tier parts.
 
jlyles said:
Yea no you're exactly right, it's a used car dealership trying to maximize profits. If it was a toyota dealership they probably would've just fixed it with oem parts and I'd be a happy new owner but I guess that's too much to ask from this other dealer. If I can get them to knock $1000 off I'll probably buy it and immediately drop it off at the shop that found the issue for me.

At this point I don't even want them to "fix" the issue themselves cause I'm sure it'll be with bottom-tier parts.
Click to expand...

Yeah I'd start with showing the $1,100 quote and trying to get all that off. If you're able to see if the axles are OEM, then get a Toyota Dealer Quote because it'd be more expensive and work the angle of replacing what is already on there to try and get that amount off. For IDing Toyota OEM axles, I have a bunch of pictures posted in response to this thread on both pages: CV Joints boots cracked, replace now or wait?

Where in VA? If you're in the Richmond-ish Area, theres an RVA Toyota Trucks facebook page that you could join and someone in there might even be willing to help you replace for less than a shop rate. A few guys there work at shops during the day and might want to pick up something on the side. If you want to go to your shop too, thats no sweat.

Also if you're buying a 4runner, check for rust. I'm sure you've already looked into this, but areas to look are:
  • front skid mount under radiator
  • fuel tank straps
  • frame by cats
  • ac drain in passenger wheel well
  • fame by rear exhaust
  • any frame welds seem to rust first
 
y=mx+b said:
Yeah I'd start with showing the $1,100 quote and trying to get all that off. If you're able to see if the axles are OEM, then get a Toyota Dealer Quote because it'd be more expensive and work the angle of replacing what is already on there to try and get that amount off. For IDing Toyota OEM axles, I have a bunch of pictures posted in response to this thread on both pages: CV Joints boots cracked, replace now or wait?

Where in VA? If you're in the Richmond-ish Area, theres an RVA Toyota Trucks facebook page that you could join and someone in there might even be willing to help you replace for less than a shop rate. A few guys there work at shops during the day and might want to pick up something on the side. If you want to go to your shop too, thats no sweat.

Also if you're buying a 4runner, check for rust. I'm sure you've already looked into this, but areas to look are:
  • front skid mount under radiator
  • fuel tank straps
  • frame by cats
  • ac drain in passenger wheel well
  • fame by rear exhaust
  • any frame welds seem to rust first
Click to expand...


Yea I may just have to walk away from this one cause the dealer doesn't really wanna work with me on taking much off the price. Unfortunately I'm not in the Richmond area, I'm near JMU if you're familiar with that.

The rust has definitely been the first thing I've looked for when looking at 4runners, I was really hoping on getting the one we've been talking about cause it has the cleanest frame I've seen by far. It's been really hard to find one in this area without significant rust.
 
CV Removal Tool - GZila Designs

I used this to pop a CV out. Only took 2 blows with a 4lb sledge and the CV popped right out.

I went with the heavy duty napa axles, with lifetime warranty. Last year I replaced both axles, 1 with a napa, 1 with a CVJ. CVJ tore a boot within 10k miles and 1.5 years. I replaced the CVJ with a Napa axle with lifetime warranty and plan on rebooting the CVJ at some point.
 
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