Tundra Idle Issues

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

I wasn't too sure where to put this as it's not directly related to the 4runner, so if it's the wrong section I apologize. My father has a 02 Tundra v6 (TRD 4x4, access cab, manual). We've got a friend that is a mechanic and does all of our work for us. He's done several major jobs like the timing belts without issues. My dad's Tundra was needing it done, so we called him up. He did a full overhaul with the timing belt, water pump, other belts, and quite a bit of other odds and ends (I wasn't there so unsure what all was replaced). He put it all back together, cranked it up and it ran fine. My dad paid him, then all was well. The next day my dad gets into it, cranks it up and it is idling way too high. It basically runs away with itself. When trying to shift gears, it hesitates and grinds because the rpm's are too high. Our mechanic messed around with it for a while and never could figure it out. He finally unplugged a sensor of some type on the motor and it idle's fine now. However, it is throwing the check engine light (besides the fact that this obviously isn't the right permanent solution). It's been a little over a month now and the mechanic doesn't seem to have any interest in finishing up his job, so we're kinda left out on a limb (he can't figure out the cause). I'm no mechanic, but I'm hoping some of you guys could point me in the right direction or maybe make some suggestions that I can give the mechanic to help get this thing figured out. Ultimately we're trying to avoid the Toyota dealer, but that's where it's headed because we have to have this thing fixed. So, any idea what may be the culprit? Thanks in advance for any help with the issue.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Most chain auto parts store will put a code reader on it for you and tell you what part you need. I'd start there. Knowing what the part is that the mechanic unplugged will provide a good start to diagnosing it, the code will undoubtedly point in the direction of the unplugged device.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

The mechanic doing the work for me is a full time mechanic (although it is for the dreaded GM's). He has access to a shop full of tools, practically anything he would ever need. He's got one of the more expensive scan tools. I know he scanned it out and it still wouldn't give him the needed info. I've had this guy into more things than I care to remember, and I trust in his abilities. However, something about this just isn't right. This was all done at my dad's place, I wasn't there so I'm not sure exactly what was changed out or what codes were throwing. If I remember right, I was told the sensor was on the passenger side of the motor. My dad know's which sensor it is (he can show it to me, but doesn't actually know what it does). I'll try to get him to show it to me.

 

[MikesToy]

You need to pull the ASE license out of that mechanic. Kinda sux he won't finish what he allegedly broke but he could at least gave your dad's money back.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Not much we can do as this was all done on the side (much cheaper that way). We're taking it as a lesson learned and really only want the truck running like it should. I'm not gonna be pointing fingers because he could still be trying to figure out the problem, but I know he hasn't touched the truck in a month knowing it wasn't right when he left the job. The main concern here is how to get the truck running right, I could care less about the issues with the mechanic. It sucks but that's life, so we'll live with it.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

After a good bit of searching, it seems that the IAC (idle control) valve may be at fault. This is pretty much a guess, but I have read about similar problems (the only thing that throws me it that it only does this after the timing belt replacement). Apparently others with idle issues have been able to unplug the power to the IAC valve and it corrects the issue, but throws a code. That seems to be what the mechanic has done. I'm unable to find the IAC valve online at partznet, but I've contacted them for a quote. I've heard it's a cheap part, so if that's the case I may replace it and go from there. Does this seem logical or even somewhat reliable? I'm really trying to avoid the high costs of getting it worked on at the dealer.

 

[Kmvreter]

Had the same issue on a previous ride. High rpm's caused clunking into gear. Had to put it into neutral because the brakes wouldn't hold it at a stop.
Had no codes with all sensors working OK on diagnostics. Turned out to be an intake manifold gasket leak. This may be the cause in your situation if the intake was touched during the timing belt change.
A good mechanic can diagnose this or you can check it yourself beforehand. Have the truck warmed up at idle with the intake filter box and breather in place. Slowly spray WD40 or hairspray all around the intake manifold area but not directly near the throttle. The rpm's will increase as it burns the extra "fuel" if it gets sucked in through a leak. You are potentially trying to find a pinhole break in a gasket seal.
Good luck.