Type of auto transmission fluid 98 4Runner

[Newenzo]

my truck needs a auto transmission fluid change, but I just got it and am not sure what type of fluid to put in there. Am I correct in thinking that when I pull the plug and drain from the tranny, I am only getting a small portion of the tranny fluid, correct? Is it ok to mix types of fluid. I have no idea what was put in previously, and don't think I am up for a complete flush.

It is a four cylinder two wheel drive by the way.

Thanks.

 

[Nunyabiz]

Number one a "drain & fill" IMO is totally useless and a waste of ATF.
Draining 3 to at most 4 quarts of ATF and the mixing in 3 qts of fresh to 8 (EIGHT) quarts of old is utterly ridiculous.

A full replacement of fluid is about 11 qts.

I would use a 100% synthetic fluid such as Amsoil or Redline.

AMSOIL Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid

Red Line Synthetic Oil - Automatic Transmission Fluids

Either DIY or go to a T-Tech machine and bring at least 12 quarts.

Just found this video, looks like a promising way to DIY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WngXE_7vg-Q

 

[kolelt]

I believe a drain and refill 100% fine. Notice the drain bolt on the transmission. That's like saying draining and refill engine oil is waist. Or you need to drop the engine oil pan everytime you change oil. There's a reason for the drain bolt in the tranny. And a full drain and refill is just fine. Personally I'd use Toyota automatic transmission fluid.

 

[Newenzo]

Number one a "drain & fill" IMO is totally useless and a waste of ATF.
Draining 3 to at most 4 quarts of ATF and the mixing in 3 qts of fresh to 8 (EIGHT) quarts of old is utterly ridiculous.

A full replacement of fluid is about 11 qts.

I would use a 100% synthetic fluid such as Amsoil or Redline.

AMSOIL Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid

Red Line Synthetic Oil - Automatic Transmission Fluids

Either DIY or go to a T-Tech machine and bring at least 12 quarts.

Just found this video, looks like a promising way to DIY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WngXE_7vg-Q

Great vid. I'm not up for that diy at this point unfortunately.

I found this link on here and the flush seems like something you want a good mechanic doing. Transmission Flushing
I can't imagine the average mechanic getting all that right.

Is there a list of recommended Toyota mechanics for areas around? I live in Orange County california.

I suppose buying the fluid yourself and bringing it to them would be a good idea?

Thanks.

 

[Newenzo]

I believe a drain and refill 100% fine. Notice the drain bolt on the transmission. That's like saying draining and refill engine oil is waist. Or you need to drop the engine oil pan everytime you change oil. There's a reason for the drain bolt in the tranny. And a full drain and refill is just fine. Personally I'd use Toyota automatic transmission fluid.

Yeah I see your point. I see nunyabizs point too.

So, what is the actual recommendation of the owners manual. I see it says "replace auto transmission and diff oil". I take it that means just the drain and refill? Maybe the theory is if you are adding about 25 percent new fluid often enough, the resultant fluid will be fine.

I'm not sure how all that applies to trucks with 150k and multiple owners though.

Another way to think about it is you don't want to spend anywhere near what a new tranny would cost.

 

[slapdappy]

full flush is easy. Disconnect send line hose (hose that sends hot trans fluid from the trans to the cooler), place end on 5 gal bucket, turn on car briefly (several seconds), allow 1-2 quarts to pump out into the bucket, shut off car, add equal amount of new fluid via dipstick tube. Repeat until you see new fluid coming out. I used 4 gallons as I read this is a way to be certain all the old stuff is out.
Taking the time to mark quart gradations on the bucket will save you much time and stress as it lets you monitor the amount coming out and replace it with an equal amount.
Def easier with help form a friend, but doable solo.
Dropping Pan And Flushing Transmission

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I believe a drain and refill 100% fine. Notice the drain bolt on the transmission. That's like saying draining and refill engine oil is waist. Or you need to drop the engine oil pan everytime you change oil. There's a reason for the drain bolt in the tranny. And a full drain and refill is just fine. Personally I'd use Toyota automatic transmission fluid.

Sorry but there is a difference. The drain on the pan of the tranny is to drain the pan when you want to change the filter. There's still about 8-9 quarts in the rest of the tranny (most is in the torque converter) The drain on the oil pan drains about 98% of the engine oil as all the oil settles in the oil pan. There's no comparison really.

Some say not to flush the fluid on high mileage tranny and some say the opposite. I used to work on tranny flush machines and other garage equipment and some of them are pretty slick. The problem with some types of machines is that they use the trannys pump to "move" the fresh fluid into the transmission (ie the TTech unit, the one with the big , glass tube) There's other machines that use their own self-contained pumps and level sensors in two tanks that basically match incoming tranny fluid and speed up or slow down the pumps to regulate the fluid flow. There's even a unit that goes in the dipstick and works similar like the DIY method. I personally use the DIY method. You just have to make sure you don't run the pan dry by pumping out about 2 quarts at a time.
Hope this helps.

 

[JohnJMonroe]

full flush is easy. Disconnect send line hose (hose that sends hot trans fluid from the trans to the cooler), place end on 5 gal bucket, turn on car briefly (several seconds), allow 1-2 quarts to pump out into the bucket, shut off car, add equal amount of new fluid via dipstick tube. Repeat until you see new fluid coming out. I used 4 gallons as I read this is a way to be certain all the old stuff is out.
Taking the time to mark quart gradations on the bucket will save you much time and stress as it lets you monitor the amount coming out a replace it with an equal amount.
Def easier with help form a friend, but doable solo.
Dropping Pan And Flushing Transmission

This is exactly what I did a few weeks back. It worked great. I used Valvoline Maxlife ATF which is a synthetic fluid. It is also super cheap. You can get a gallon of it at Walmart for ~$18. Used Oil Analysis - Bob is the Oil Guy - Bob is the Oil Guy is a good place to research oils and fluids.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I bought cheep Walmart dex3 fluid and do a drain and fill once a week till it gets new looking. Then I'll drop the pan and change filter and clean magnets and put a magnefine filter in the cooler line.

 

[JEL]

I bought cheep Walmart dex3 fluid and do a drain and fill once a week till it gets new looking. Then I'll drop the pan and change filter and clean magnets and put a magnefine filter in the cooler line.

That's how I do it with Valvoline DexIII. Mine has always stayed looking and smelling as fresh as the day I put it in with simple pan drain and fills every 15k or so, trans shifts perfectly still with nearly 200k, so I certainly think there's merit in doing a simple pan drain and fill and it certainly isn't worthless. Same goes for my 4th gen (whole different animal as far as the change process with the "lifetime" WS).


On my parent's Honda I do the "3x3" method as recommended by the Honda engineers. This calls for 3qt drain and fill, drive around, rinse repeat 3x until you have about 86% fresh fluid per the FSM. Those things have notoriously weak and glass-like 5speed autos connected to the 7th gen V6, but this method seems to keep it happy. If you do a simple pan drain and refill often enough you will keep things clean enough and working ok. The old stuff isn't poison, it's just a little "tired."

 

[02SE]

Sorry but there is a difference. The drain on the pan of the tranny is to drain the pan when you want to change the filter. There's still about 8-9 quarts in the rest of the tranny (most is in the torque converter) The drain on the oil pan drains about 98% of the engine oil as all the oil settles in the oil pan. There's no comparison really.

This.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

That's how I do it with Valvoline DexIII. Mine has always stayed looking and smelling as fresh as the day I put it in with simple pan drain and fills every 15k or so, trans shifts perfectly still with nearly 200k, so I certainly think there's merit in doing a simple pan drain and fill and it certainly isn't worthless. Same goes for my 4th gen (whole different animal as far as the change process with the "lifetime" WS).





On my parent's Honda I do the "3x3" method as recommended by the Honda engineers. This calls for 3qt drain and fill, drive around, rinse repeat 3x until you have about 86% fresh fluid per the FSM. Those things have notoriously weak and glass-like 5speed autos connected to the 7th gen V6, but this method seems to keep it happy. If you do a simple pan drain and refill often enough you will keep things clean enough and working ok. The old stuff isn't poison, it's just a little "tired."

When I get it new looking I'm going to switch to Pennzoil Multi-Vehicle.

 

[kolelt]

You can drop the pan if you want to. But drain and re fill will just be fine also. Does the manual specificly say " drop the pan ?"

Come to think of, maybe a refill is better because there are still some metal pieces left for friction. So it gets mixed with new fluid to retain that friction ? Just my.theory

Although neither is bad or wrong.

 

[sterbenlicht]

True, neither is bad nor wrong. They're just saying a drain and refill is only replacing 25-30% of the trans fluid because most of it isn't in the pan. You'd need to repeat the drain and refill method many times to achieve a "mostly new" fluid condition. Not just four times, but a few more because each time you drain it, you're draining about a quarter of the new fluid you put in it last time as well. That's why flush machines or clever do-it-yourself methods are needed to replace all of the fluid in one go. There are varying opinions on the flush methods. As long as it's a good machine, it should be fine, but if there are any doubts, the drain and refill is a pretty safe and less system-shocking way to achieve it. I would guess that a good DIY method in one go is probably the cheapest and most thorough way to get it done.

 

[Newenzo]

Thanks for all the posts they are much appreciated.

I just can't be doing the full flush right now, I don't even have a friend that could help out.

So, I'd like to do a drain and refill but still wonder what fluid to use. I know one poster recommended toyotas aft. Would it be horrendous if synthetic and the normal type lubricants mixed? I just don't know what fluid to choose but I think it's a safe bet to assume it's been filled with non-synthetic, no way to be sure though. I'd really like to buy this Walmart valvoline synthetic fluid and just change every 15k or so, maybe do two or three drain and refills in the first month though. Does that plan sound doable/reasonable? Thanks again.

 

[slapdappy]

Would it be horrendous if synthetic and the normal type lubricants mixed? .

No. Just Fine. Synthetic and conventional are 100% compatible. You can use conventional, then synthetic, then conventional, etc. You can do 6 qts conventional + remainder synthetic, or some other ratio, etc. Same with engine oil. Mix, switch, totally compatible.
trans fluid:
Valvoline.com > FAQs > System Fluids Car FAQs > Automatic Transmission Fluid
Mixing Conventional and Synthetic Transmission Fluids

oil:
Valvoline.com > FAQs > Motor Oil Car FAQs > Full-Synthetic Motor Oil

 

[Nunyabiz]

If you are just going to do drain and fill then I would just get the cheapest ATF you can find.
The $18 per gallon Valvoline Maxlife ATF from Wally World that JohnJMonroe mentioned is probably as good as any.
You dont want to buy really good synthetic and throw about 30% away everytime you drain and fill. Thats about $50 a gallon.
To even have a prayer of getting anything that resembles a decent ATF change you would have to drain and fill at least about 5 times, thats about 15 quarts.

I would go ahead and do it 5 times within a couple weeks.

Problem with doing this is that you do not drop the pan so cannot check your magnets.
Plus you are wasting about 5 quarts of ATF and taking A LOT more time and effort than just simply changing the ATF.

If you are not going to drop the pan then 90% of the work of doing a full ATF change is done.
All you need to do is drop the line from the radiator as shown in the link, put it in a preferably white bucket, start the car, let it run about 30 seconds which should be about 1 1/2 quarts pumped out, then pour in about 1 1/2 quarts and do this until fresh fluid is coming out.


"Kolelt

Notice the drain bolt on the transmission. That's like saying draining and refill engine oil is waist. Or you need to drop the engine oil pan everytime you change oil. There's a reason for the drain bolt in the tranny. And a full drain and refill is just fine. Personally I'd use Toyota automatic transmission fluid."

I am sure you must have misspoken or maybe testing out a new bong or something.
If you drained about 1 1/2 quarts of oil from your engine and did a "drain and fill" leaving the other 4 quarts in there then YES without any question that would be a waste of good engine oil.
The sole reason the Transmission drain plug is there is to drain the pan before you take it off (or to do a fairly worthless drain and fill)
When you drain your engine oil you are draining probably 95-98% of it.
When you drain your ATF you get at best 25-30% tops.

 

[sterbenlicht]

Testing out a new bong lmao

 

[T4R2014]

The whole "drain/fill is stupid" argument always pops up when someone mentions "transmission fluid". Do a flush or do multiple drain/fills. Both approaches work and both are better than doing nothing. A drain/fill isn't going to make your transmission explode; people have been doing them for years. It does not get all the fluid out, no one is denying that. The theory behind doing a drain/fill on an older transmission is that you don't "shock" the transmission with completely new fluid if that makes sense. Not sure how true this theory is, though as no one has tested it.

A drain/fill is way less labor intensive. It takes me 10 minutes at most since I don't even need to jack the 4Runner up. $18 worth of fluid and 10 minutes isn't losing much unless you are that cheap. A full flush will take way longer if you are looking to do all this work yourself.

Just do what you are comfortable with.

 

[slapdappy]

A drain/fill is way less labor intensive. It takes me 10 minutes at most since I don't even need to jack the 4Runner up. $18 worth of fluid and 10 minutes isn't losing much unless you are that cheap. A full flush will take way longer if you are looking to do all this work yourself.

The Bucket style full flush does not require lifting the truck. It is quick and simple and pretty much devoid of spills and clean up. hash marking the bucket in quart increments is the most complicated and time consuming step, if one chooses to do so.