Tyrone, my new build

PitbullRescuer

New member
This is my 4th 3rd Gen, I currently own 3 of them. I decided to name this one Tyrone.

Specs:
'97 SR5
4x4
5 Speed
3.4 V6
221,000 miles
2" spacer lift
285/75/16 MT's
Rust Free

I bought this one from another forum member who had the top radiator hose blow off and got the engine real hot. He sold it to me with a cracked head.

Went down to Richmond, VA to pick it up this past Tuesday. I hooked the battery back up, hit the key, it started right up, idled well and was making plenty of power.

Drug it home on a U-Hual car dolly with one of my other 3rd Gens.

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Got it home, re-installed the driveshaft (figured it was safest to drag it without it hooked up.) Backed it off the dolly, slapped a license plate on it and drove it around. It ran pretty good. Clutch master cylinder is weak, hopefully just needs a bleed, might need to be replaced. Drove it around some more, it started getting real hot, real fast. Pulled over, shut it off, and let it sit for about an hour. Fired it back up, drove it home and parked it.

Next day, took it to the self serve car wash, cleaned up the mess from when the radiator hose blew off on the PO.

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Used some Purple Power and a pressure washer.

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Thursday evening into Friday, I took some time to compression test it and then do a leak down test. Compression Test Results:

Dry Test
#1-145 psi
#2-140 psi
#3-130 psi
#4-130 psi
#5-140 psi
#6-131 psi
Not great but not bad for 221,000 miles. Decided to add a little oil into each cylinder and re-test it. (I used a bit too much oil.)
Wet Test
#1-220 psi
#2-195 psi
#3-216 psi
#4-198 psi
#5-220 psi
#6-195 psi

Next, I went to Harbor Freight and bought a Leak Down Tester. What a piece of sh*t, the fittings were leaking when I took it out of the box. But, it did the job. I didn't pull the timing cover so I had to guess at TDC. I stuck an extension down each cylinder and then turned the crank until I got to what I marked as the highest point on the extension. Not exactly scientific but it worked.

Highest Leak Down # was 22%, lowest was 18%. Considering they probably weren't exactly TDC, I'm happy.

These numbers, combined with how well it runs, leads me to highly doubt it has a cracked head. This is further supported by the fact that there is no mixing of oil and coolant. The coolant however, was a mess. The best comparison I can give you guys is that it looked like baby sh*t. So I flushed it and here's what came out.

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I pulled the thermostat out, popped a new one in. I also pulled the lines to the heater core and flushed that out real good. At this point it was 9:30 so I called it a night and drank some beer.

Got up this morning, picked up two gallons of coolant and two gallons of distilled water. Filled it, let it run, filled it some more and then went for a drive. I was about for about 30 minutes in traffic, never went past halfway on the temp gauge.

I does have a miss in it but there is a visible exhaust leak too. There's a nut missing where the Y pipe hooks into the cat pipe. It also has a check engine light which I'll have to go get read. But all in all, I think I got a solid little beast to start with here.
 
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I'll say it was the K&N that did Tyrone in.

With those compression #'s, I'd wager to say that the rings are sticking or shot. Maybe try a high mileage oil such as Mobil Super and see what it does.

While HF has merit for some tools, the leak down tester is not one of them. I bought an OTC one from Pep Boys years ago on sale. A 24" wooden dowel works well to fit on top of the piston.

Looks good, even with three new coils.
 
No doubt it could use sme freshening up. But all in all it runs well and makes power. I really don't think it has a cracked head. I did just hook up a code reader to it, P0306, misfire on #6. Makes sense since it does have a miss. However, I just stopped at Toyota, bought a nut for the exhaust and cranked it on there. I'll have to run it around for a while to get it hot again and see if it runs any better with the exhaust leak torqued down.
 
Dang. You are amassing a serious collection of 3rd gens! Great find, especially if the head isn't cracked.
 
I need to start selling some off, I need the room. I've been driving Tyrone around a bit, so far it runs well. Motor is a little noisy and has an intermittent miss but I'm not convinced the head is cracked.

I hope to have the '00 buttoned up in the next week or so. If I can sell either that or my '97 Limited I'll free up some cash for Tyrone.
 
When I see/hear the name Tyrone, this is all I can think about...
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/4vr5PkXjLF4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Good pick up though.
 
So how is the temp doing after your treatment? That is seriously ugly coolant of a color I have never seen before without prior involvement of cheap beer.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed you can pull this baby back from the brink of death. Good luck...
 
:jump:

Hmmm I apparently skipped right over that part :(

Mistakes happen.

I am curious as to why you keep deleting your posts?

Anyway, OP, it looks like there is some oil seeping out from under the number 2 cylinder spark plug boot. The o-rings in the valve cover that seal against the spark plug tubes, can sometimes leak. If they leak enough to fill the sparkplug tube with oil, a misfire can result.

I'd pull all of the coils and plug boots to check for oil filling the sparkplug tubes. Then replace the o-rings if any is found.

In fact I'd replace all of the spark plugs anyway. Considering that the cooling system was seriously neglected, I wouldn't be surprised if the spark plugs are well past due to be replaced.
 
Good eyes 02SE. They are leaking and a coupe of the plugs were wet with oil when I pulled them to test the motor. When I get the time I'm going to pull the valve covers and do the gaskets and the spark plug tube gaskets at the same time. But I do think that is exactly the cause of the miss.
 
So how is the temp doing after your treatment? That is seriously ugly coolant of a color I have never seen before without prior involvement of cheap beer.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed you can pull this baby back from the brink of death. Good luck...
It's running nice and cool now, no issues since the flush and fill. I actually let it idle for an hour yesterday while I was re-assembling the heads for my '00, gauge never got more than halfway up.

However, I do hear water running (making a lot of noise) in the heater core. There is no radio in the dash so I can hear it pretty well. Thinking maybe there is still some sort of blockage there. Thoughts?
 
However, I do hear water running (making a lot of noise) in the heater core. There is no radio in the dash so I can hear it pretty well. Thinking maybe there is still some sort of blockage there. Thoughts?

If there are any air pockets in the cooling system from the flush and fill, you might hear them in the heater core.

Keep the temperature control for the heater set to the hot side, (which allows coolant to fill the heater core) so you won't have a space in the system where an air pocket can stay.

Any air pockets will usually work their way out of the cooling system after a few heating up and cooling down cycles, if the overflow reservoir is kept filled to the full line, and the radiator cap is working.

Keeping the temp. control set to hot won't be necessary, after all the air pockets are out of the system.
 
Another one?! Wow, you must like restoring them or something. :D

Glad to see this one is working out well for you, engine troubles are not something I want to mess with.
 
If there are any air pockets in the cooling system from the flush and fill, you might hear them in the heater core.

Keep the temperature control for the heater set to the hot side, (which allows coolant to fill the heater core) so you won't have a space in the system where an air pocket can stay.

Any air pockets will usually work their way out of the cooling system after a few heating up and cooling down cycles, if the overflow reservoir is kept filled to the full line, and the radiator cap is working.

Keeping the temp. control set to hot won't be necessary, after all the air pockets are out of the system.

I kept the heat on yesterday while it was idling for that hour. I noticed that the heat is not getting warm either. Have to assume that's related, no?
 
Yeah, if your heat isn't getting warm, then there's not enough coolant making it into the heater core. Cause once the coolant is hot, and it's flowing through the heater core properly....well, you have hot air from the blower.
 
It's running nice and cool now, no issues since the flush and fill. I actually let it idle for an hour yesterday while I was re-assembling the heads for my '00, gauge never got more than halfway up.

However, I do hear water running (making a lot of noise) in the heater core. There is no radio in the dash so I can hear it pretty well. Thinking maybe there is still some sort of blockage there. Thoughts?

Posts above are all good stuff. You can try parking it with the nose up hill, heat on, and rad cap off. Then let it warm up and keep an eye on it. Give it a few minutes after the thermostat opens and you should burp the air out. Then fill rad and reservoir to level, if needed. That's how I always fill mine after flush.
 
Durk, good trick. I just went out and pulled it nose first into my driveway (it's on an incline) fired it up, pulled the cap and cranked the heat. I could actually see it burping. And now the heat is warm. Never thought to let gravity help it along. Thanks.
 

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