Umm, this can't be good...

Mr. Berks

New member
While down in wheel well, working on the starter yesterday, I noticed broken linkage:

IMG_6128-vi.jpg


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How bad is this?

Can I order the part and swap it out on my own, or do I need to get to a repair shop (or dreaded dealer) soon?

Huge thanks in advance for any/all input!
 
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Just the sway bar end link...

Not critical, but your call... The car will be a bit more tippy. It's basically bolt on, just go down to the dealer and ask for a front sway bar endlink. They are pricey for what they are if I remember right.
 
same thing I noticed about 2 weeks ago except opposite side. I'm on the look out for another myself. trying to find all options available. If you find both sides let me know and I'll buy your new or your old driverside one unless it's rusted through too
 
Just the sway bar end link...

Not critical, but your call... The car will be a bit more tippy. It's basically bolt on, just go down to the dealer and ask for a front sway bar endlink. They are pricey for what they are if I remember right.

Yeah from what I heard too. around $80? but autozone/advance/oreilly i believe has them around $30 but still more than I want to pay for that lil part. I'm looking for someone parting out or someone close to a pull a part or junkyard for help to ship in a $5 flat rate box.
 
Just replaced one of mine couple months back. About $90 oem. Not critical but noticeable difference once fixed.
 
I did an Advance Auto for $23 +/- maybe 18 months ago. I figure original lasted 10 years so $9/year. If the cheapie goes 3 years, I am ahead of the game, and I'm halfway there. I can't see any way the OEM can perform better as long as the geometry is the same--all it can do is last longer. The Advance Auto part was a perfect match and looked just as beefy as OEM, which is not very beefy.

Add to that that there may be some events that would break the OEM or the cheapie in any case, and I think cheapie is the way to go on this non-critical part.
 
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What about a custom set of these??? :biggrin2:

SwayBarDisco02t.jpg

If you lift your rig you might as well add the length in this part rather than getting the frame mount lowering bracket. just a heads up.
 

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I've replaced both of mine over the course of the last 6 years. 1st time, I went Toyota all the way....cost me a bundle! The other side, I went through a parts store, and paid half the price, both are holding up well.......Make sure you buy the new rubbers too, might as well replace them while you're in there....my 2 cents.
 
I just got back from Advance Auto, where I picked up their brand of link ends. They're just about an exact match to OEM (comes with washers, rubbers, bolts and all). They were $29 each. I agree with @TheDerk on this one. OEM is best, and have lasted 13 years. If these last half as long, it'll be worth it. They look solid though.

@cj80cruiser: Since I bought 2 to replace, you can have my old one once it's off (that is, if it's not completely rusted and crap, as the passenger side one was). I don't know what it's worth to ya, but it's worth nothing to me. I'll keep ya posted once I make the swap.

Regards.
 
I just got back from Advance Auto, where I picked up their brand of link ends. They're just about an exact match to OEM (comes with washers, rubbers, bolts and all). They were $29 each. I agree with @TheDerk on this one. OEM is best, and have lasted 13 years. If these last half as long, it'll be worth it. They look solid though.

@cj80cruiser: Since I bought 2 to replace, you can have my old one once it's off (that is, if it's not completely rusted and crap, as the passenger side one was). I don't know what it's worth to ya, but it's worth nothing to me. I'll keep ya posted once I make the swap.

Regards.


Thanks! I'm gona cut it and lengthen it. That would be great
 
Thanks! I'm gona cut it and lengthen it. That would be great

on the front I would not lengthen the sway-bar arms. because even lifted we haven't changed the travel length of our front suspension so if you lengthen the sway-bar arm you will limit up travel. In the rear we have actually extended the travel and therefore a sway-bar extension is appropriate. Just my 2 cents
 
on the front I would not lengthen the sway-bar arms. because even lifted we haven't changed the travel length of our front suspension so if you lengthen the sway-bar arm you will limit up travel. In the rear we have actually extended the travel and therefore a sway-bar extension is appropriate. Just my 2 cents

You know you're right, I wasn't thinking clearly when I looked at them....its attached to the lower A-arm and this would stay at the same level with lift. What got me to thinking they needed to be adjusted was I saw somewhere that a drop bracket is sold for the frame side mounts???? Maybe it was for the rear. I'm thinking solid axle
 
I know the price is a bit of an issue but I really enjoy my WabFab Disconnect end links in front. It takes five minutes to disconnect and 5 minutes to put them back on. I do this while I am airing down. Having them disconnected off-road does make a big difference with the way the front suspension works. Allows it to be more independent as well as droop.

Front Sway Bar Quick Disconnect Installation Instructions | WabFab

Did I overlook the price? That's kinda what I had pictured a few posts back but looks like Brian sells them.
 
They are 140. I just installed a pair, I should have done my research, they aren't as quick as I wished, but they do work just fine!
 
I bought front and rear kit combined for 225 or so over a year ago. His website is changed and doesnt look like most of the links are working. Basically it is a Hitch pin at the bottom and then a 19mm nut at top to pull them off and put on each time. I have one side that the bushing sticks on and gives me a little trouble removing.

Yukon- that is why they are called disconnects and not quick disconnects. Very stout though and still feel money well spent.
 
I've broken OEM endlinks off road and will be replacing my current set with the wabfab disconnects and he guarantees them for life and that's if they break.
 
I bought front and rear kit combined for 225 or so over a year ago. His website is changed and doesnt look like most of the links are working. Basically it is a Hitch pin at the bottom and then a 19mm nut at top to pull them off and put on each time. I have one side that the bushing sticks on and gives me a little trouble removing.

Yukon- that is why they are called disconnects and not quick disconnects. Very stout though and still feel money well spent.

Yeah.. Once I got over the thought that I would un-clip a pin and go, I was satisfied again. Good product overall. I won't be expecting to break them.
 

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