Hey guys, I started to do the install of my OME springs and decided to start with the rear thinking it'd be the easiest after watching some videos but as it turns out, it's beyond my abilities it seems and now I can't even put in the old springs. That being said, the closest mechanic is about 2 miles away, can I drop it back onto it's wheels and limp it over? What will this break, if anything?
Unable to install taller springs myself, can I limp the car 2 miles?
- Thread starter crespoh69
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coachhomer
New member
Tough to answer that question. Can you provide some more detail on what you have completed so far?
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I've removed the old springs in the rear, this includes me disconnecting the sway bar endlinks and removing the tract bar. I should be able to bolt those things back on but the springs themselves, old or new, won't go back in.
Twisted Sid
Member
Remove lower shock bolts and use the factory bottle jack between the frame and the axle to push the axle down more. Springs should pop into place then
Sparky 97Runner
New member
I guess technically you'd be riding on your bump stops the whole way but I still wouldn't do it. Sounds very dicey. You need to remove your shocks and get creative with a bottle jack and you should be able to at least get your old springs back in there. I'm surprised you were able to get your old springs out without disconnecting your shocks in the first place. Removing shocks will make a big difference. I'm assuming your wheels are removed and your frame rails are on jack stands?
I was afraid this would be suggested, I'd rather not remove the shock to be honest. I had to pay a mechanic to come do it after a day of struggling with it myself and even he took about 3 hours to complete, mind you all he had to do was install them, I'd already removed the old ones at the time.
Yes, wheels are off to the side and car is currently on the stands, nothing is currently keeping the rear axled up but the schocks and I'm trying to avoid removing those as they were a pain to install in the first place.
Sparky 97Runner
New member
Only remove the lower bolt and leave the top connected on the shocks. The top bolts are a pain and the bottom super easy. You will have to compress the shock a little bit by hand when you reinstall the lower bolt.
Sparky 97Runner
New member
Also, keep an eye on the rear brake hose and make sure its not getting stretched when your doing all this. Putting a jack under the side of the axle that your not working on helps. Trial and error.
Yeah, for me the top was simple actually, it was compressing the lower part that was the issue, same for the mechanic.
Sparky 97Runner
New member
Taking the top nut off will also work. Any chance you have the wrong shocks because your mechanic spending 3 hours to install lower shock bolts is definitely not normal? The shocks have to come off, top or bottom, to install springs.
JoeT4R
Senior Member
[MENTION=69350]crespoh69[/MENTION] I'd suggest going to your local auto parts store and renting a spring compressor. They're cheap and do the trick perfectly. Compress your new springs, install them, carefully remove spring compressor. Done! Hope this helps.
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1) I cant imagine it taking someone 3 hours to put the lower shock nuts on....somenthing is wrong, either the wrong shocks or something.
agree with others, that the shocks need to be disconnected, the track bar and sway bar end links too. Some put a jack between axle and frame to push down on the side they want to install.
however i will take a floor jack and LIFT the opposite side of the sring I want to install. example lift passenger side. axle pivots and driver side goes down and I can slide the spring out and new in. then opposite....jack under driver and install pass side
agree with others, that the shocks need to be disconnected, the track bar and sway bar end links too. Some put a jack between axle and frame to push down on the side they want to install.
however i will take a floor jack and LIFT the opposite side of the sring I want to install. example lift passenger side. axle pivots and driver side goes down and I can slide the spring out and new in. then opposite....jack under driver and install pass side
Soneill
Member
I wouldn't drive on it. You will end up messing something else up. The rear should only take an hour per wheel and really isn't that hard. Like others said, you will have to take out the lower shock bolt and disconnect the rear track bar to make it do able. On another note, how are you planning on the doing the front by yourself? It's harder than the rear.
Pyral
Member
I personally never liked the method of using a bottle jack between the frame and axle.
Do you not have a spring compressor? I'd of rented one from a part store if I were you, helps with the install. Just make sure you use it correctly, those compressed springs can store a lethal amount of energy.
Do you not have a spring compressor? I'd of rented one from a part store if I were you, helps with the install. Just make sure you use it correctly, those compressed springs can store a lethal amount of energy.
brillo_76
Elite Member
You can also take the rear sway bar off both sides and, if needed, the rear lateral control arm. That may give the rear axle enough swing to get them in.
If not, you have to compress the springs some and be very careful when doing that. I use the McFerson spring compressors that a clip ring on the clamp to keep them from slipping apart.
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If not, you have to compress the springs some and be very careful when doing that. I use the McFerson spring compressors that a clip ring on the clamp to keep them from slipping apart.
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These are the shocks I ordered for my 99: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072BNCMZB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I actually paid another mechanic to just do the job for me and even he took from 9AM-1130AM to finish the rear and this is with most of the hardware other than the shocks basically removed. He only needed to install at that point.
While I didn't do the fronts myself this time, I've done it twice already with it being a whole lot easier compared to the rear.
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