Undercoat project tomorrow

Gnfanatic

New member
Going to undercoat the TRD tomorrow with LPS3. I have the gun and attachments and ready to roll. I appreciate Toyota coating all the lines in black epoxy to protect them from rusting. I cant believe the size of our oil pans? Never saw such a small pan! Just case anyone wonders why I didnt go fluid film is because LPS3 drys while fluid film stays wet. LPS3 is much hard to wash off.
 
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Nice, I don't blame ya for skipping the fluid film. FF is decent stuff, but I saw some testing done by a youtuber (Projectfarm) who did some long term independent tests on rust inhibitors and there were some other impressive products out there, namely CRC's Heavy Duty rust inhibitor.
 
Nice, I don't blame ya for skipping the fluid film. FF is decent stuff, but I saw some testing done by a youtuber (Projectfarm) who did some long term independent tests on rust inhibitors and there were some other impressive products out there, namely CRC's Heavy Duty rust inhibitor.

That guy is awesome , love his oil tests to.
 
I use FF on my firearms to this day, but think I will switch to LPS on my 4R. I sprayed FF on my GMC frame a couple times, and it seemed to accelerate surface rust after it started wearing off.. YMMV
 
Excellent. the wax dried to a thick film. I will be more happy when I take my front and rear bumpers off for some mods and coat inside the body wile they are off.
 
FWIW - the oil pan is actually pretty big - but it has two pieces. One is aluminum. The very bottom little sump is steel. The one on the right is the complete oil pan with both parts.

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It's a good idea to get some extra rust prevention.
 
FWIW - the oil pan is actually pretty big - but it has two pieces. One is aluminum. The very bottom little sump is steel. The one on the right is the complete oil pan with both parts.

cimg2957_9cdcd3978501900503c44b10a212aca39cabdc4b-jpg.1710768



It's a good idea to get some extra rust prevention.

All it does is add another location that can fail and leak. It is a weird, unnecessary design. I just did the longest oil change I have ever did and I have a 2 post lift in my garage. I am hoping the aftermarket skid plates have an access hole big enough where I do not have to remove them to get out oil filter housing?
 
All it does is add another location that can fail and leak. It is a weird, unnecessary design. I just did the longest oil change I have ever did and I have a 2 post lift in my garage. I am hoping the aftermarket skid plates have an access hole big enough where I do not have to remove them to get out oil filter housing?

It does more than that. It bridges the lower end of the engine. It's a structural component on the lower end.

cimg2959_8d27a4abdac265ed5d87fc17343f00c51fdef10b-jpg.1710767


It seals better because it's much more rigid at the mounting face to the lower face of the engine block and will seat better and it makes for a much smaller steel sump below. The steel/aluminum interface that is prone to leak is reduced in size and also moved further from where the heat is.

Overall - it's a sound design with a lot of advantages over a cheap stamped oil pan. I think most if not all modern aluminum block engines use a similar aluminum pan.

VW:
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Honda
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Nissan
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The best time to apply it when you first get your new truck. I had a guy do fluid film on my 2020 Pro when I bought it. Very pleased so far how it’s been staying on.
 
I just did the longest oil change I have ever did and I have a 2 post lift in my garage. I am hoping the aftermarket skid plates have an access hole big enough where I do not have to remove them to get out oil filter housing?

I just did my own oil in the 4R for the first time this weekend. I had no idea what I was in for, and had to run out for an oil filter tool since my generic strap-type tool was no match for the tightest oil filter housing in the world. For that, I needed to use my breaker bar vs the normal sized ratchet.

Next change will at least be faster since I'm not solving a puzzle as I go...
 
If you had your 4runner undercoated with their run-of-the-mill black epoxy originally, can you spray LPS3 on top of the black epoxy? Or should you strip the epoxy first?
 

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