UPCOMING: Oil Cooler Gasket Replacement

[BamaDrewski]

I noticed a leak from my oil cooler on my 2000 T4R LTD 4WD with the 3.4L engine. (It only lasted 250K miles!) I could not seem to find a detailed write up (with pics) on changing out the o-rings on the oil cooler so I will try and document the process with pics and post on this thread. For now, I picked up the OE parts for my rig.

Large O-Ring (Mounts to between the oil cooler and engine block)
Part #: 90301-67004

Washer Seal (This is the “washer seal” that the main bolt goes through)
Part #: 90210-22001

As we all know, oil creeps everywhere so a minor drip can appear to be a major leak. If you are interested in doing this and want a detailed post with pics, please comment on this “upcoming” thread. Thanks everyone!

 

[4Runner4TW]

I've always wondered if our trucks at oil coolers. May be a no brainer, but I was not sure. Where is it located?

 

[BamaDrewski]

I've always wondered if our trucks at oil coolers. May be a no brainer, but I was not sure. Where is it located?

If you pull off the front, driver's side tire, there is a "curtain" hanging there. If you look to the right of the curtain, pull it down, you will see the oil cooler assembly. (it is located to the right of the oil filter on the engine block) It has two coolant lines running to it. There is a center bolt you have to unscrew and this allows you to pull the oil cooler unit. There are two seals; one is an O-ring and the other is a bolt-washer-seal like shown in the photos of the original thread. If you get up under the truck on the driver's side and look up towards the driver's side of the engine, you can also see where it is mounted.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I would replace those coolant hoses also, while I was in there. OEM of course.

 

[weekendclimber]

I'd like to see a writeup. I've got a leak on that side, but I assumed it was residual spillage from pulling the oil filter. Not sure now:nicethread:

 

[BamaDrewski]

I'd like to see a writeup. I've got a leak on that side, but I assumed it was residual spillage from pulling the oil filter. Not sure now:nicethread:

OK guys, I will do a "photo documentary" and write up on the change. I am just hoping it is as easy as it seems in the FSM. I think this is something that has to impact ALL of our T4R's at one point or another and if I can help someone save some time and take the questions out of doing it on their own rig, I am happy to do it!

 

[weekendclimber]

I was surprised to see that camelback wants $480 for the whole cooler unit. I wonder what the expected lifetime for that whole thing is...

Anyway...op2:

 

[JohnJMonroe]

I replaced the coolant hoses going to the oil cooler during my last timing belt change. Getting to that area is a nightmare. I considered swapping out those O-rings while I was in there, but it was a gigantic NOPE.

Good luck. Try to get pictures that show what angles you are going at it. Its not going to be easy to get back in there.

 

[BamaDrewski]

I replaced the coolant hoses going to the oil cooler during my last timing belt change. Getting to that area is a nightmare. I considered swapping out those O-rings while I was in there, but it was a gigantic NOPE.

Good luck. Try to get pictures that show what angles you are going at it. Its not going to be easy to get back in there.

Did you try going in through the driver's side front wheel well to get to the oil cooler?

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

^^This When I did ,my UCAs, the cooler and hoses were right there. Should be fairly easy.

 

[JohnJMonroe]

Did you try going in through the driver's side front wheel well to get to the oil cooler?

Yes. Went from the side, top, and bottom near the power steering rack. Removing the alternator is a must. Its just a ***** getting back in there.

 

[awpsome]

I was able to do the change in about an hours time. No need to remove alternator or anything. I went from the bottom/above the steering rack from the back side. Takes a little bit of figuring out where to access it with wrenches and shit but in due time it'll come out.

Quite a straight forward and easy swap. I remember when looking for write ups to change mine back then there was none
If I remember correctly don't forget to drain your coolant and oil before removing it. Otherwise you will have that shit everywhere and possibility of one getting to the other where they shouldn't mix.

My o ring was hard and brittle upon removal. It was definitely my leak that I thought was my CV axels the whole time. Replaced the driver side front diff seals a couple times as well as reseating the CV a couple of times.

 

[LittleCaesar]

I thought to go up from under the steering rack but didn't see a way to get at it from underneath. Maybe removing the driver's side CV would help free up some space.

 

[Topher7]

Can someone clarify if the oil needs, I mean absolutely needs, to be drained? Is it the risk of coolant & oil contamination, resting oil level sits at or above the cooler, or does the cooler carry enough oil in it to need more after replacing the seals?

Thanks for the help.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Can someone clarify if the oil needs, I mean absolutely needs, to be drained? Is it the risk of coolant & oil contamination, resting oil level sits at or above the cooler, or does the cooler carry enough oil in it to need more after replacing the seals?

Thanks for the help.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

Don't need to drain the oil but you will lose some coolant. Remove the hoses first, let it drain then remove the cooler. Top off the coolant when complete.

 

[phattyduck]

Can someone clarify if the oil needs, I mean absolutely needs, to be drained? Is it the risk of coolant & oil contamination, resting oil level sits at or above the cooler, or does the cooler carry enough oil in it to need more after replacing the seals?

Thanks for the help.

If you are only doing the o-rings you won't loose much oil. You can leave the cooling system closed.

As was said in the last post, if you are also doing the coolant hoses, you'll probably want to drain the coolant (into a clean bucket to put it back in if you want) first and remove the hoses from the cooler before removing the main oil cooler bolt.

-Charlie

 

[sleepydad]

Can someone clarify if the oil needs, I mean absolutely needs, to be drained? Is it the risk of coolant & oil contamination, resting oil level sits at or above the cooler, or does the cooler carry enough oil in it to need more after replacing the seals?

Thanks for the help.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

you can see all the details here

https://youtu.be/W6yJHR1Qliw?t=1011

it's with the engine out so I can't help you there, I have done it on the truck as well and you will lose some oil (1/4 pint) and it will make a big mess. this is also the lowest point of the coolant path and your going to lose everything in the engine if I remember correctly. you can drain just the engine coolant from the port on the passenger side of the engine. you can also put a tube on it and capture all of it.

the oil cooler is 2nd in line past the oil filter in the oil path.

I actually got rid of my oil cooler and I'm running 2 oil filters. some of the vehicles with the 5vz don't even have an oil cooler installed on them.

you should not need to worry about losing oil pressure by replacing it. the oil filter has some in it and that is in line before the oil cooler. sure it might interrupt the oil flow but no worse than when you change the filter.

 

[REX_T4R]

Bringing this thread back from the dead. Thanks to OP for the info. That O ring doesn't last very long. Only 270K miles! I had the oil cooler cleaned from all the gunk the previous owner managed to leave behind. Looking to take this rig to 500K and now I'm confident it can.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Bringing this thread back from the dead. Thanks to OP for the info. That O ring doesn't last very long. Only 270K miles! I had the oil cooler cleaned from all the gunk the previous owner managed to leave behind. Looking to take this rig to 500K and now I'm confident it can.

I soaked my cooler in acetone for a week. Then I flushed the chunks out of the oil side by pumping mineral spirits through it till it came out clean.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BostonJon]

Just did this last weekend. I was able to access everything through the “curtain” behind the driver side wheel. It was tight, but it worked. I drained all my coolant first (to reuse) but not the oil. Still made quite a mess though. I took the cooler completely out to clean it thoroughly.