5VZ Oil Cooler O-ring Mishap

[ToyotaBrah]

Hello everyone,

I just completed the oil cooler gasket and hose job on my 5VZ. Everything went well for the most part. (U-shaped hose is a bit challenging to reinstall, flexible hose wire clamp tool is essential for this).

Part numbers for those completing the same job:

90210-22001 Washer, seal (for union bolt)
90301-61004 O-ring cooler
15778-62030 Hose, oil cooler
15777-62020 Hose, oil cooler

Where this job went awry, was when I was reinstalling the cooler. The o-ring must have slipped out of the groove (although I verified one more time with my hand before pushing the cooler onto the block), and got crushed when I torqued the union bolt down and oil subsequently seeped out on start-up. Pics below.

My question is, how do I ensure the next o-ring I install does not come out too? Apply grease to it to help it to stay put, will that swell the o-ring?

Advice appreciated.

 

[brillo_76]

Yes a little bit of grease should hold the o ring in place..

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[ToyotaBrah]

Yes a little bit of grease should hold the o ring in place..

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Thanks, sir!

 

[Romeo1]

I used a dab of oil to make mine stick. Just be careful and you'll be alright.

 

[brillo_76]

I used a dab of oil to make mine stick. Just be careful and you'll be alright.

That will work too. I just have better success with a dab of grease.

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[Romeo1]

That will work too. I just have better success with a dab of grease.

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Grease works well too. Just have to watch what kind you're using. Sometimes certain greasers don't interact well with certain O-rings and they get a little swollen.

Long extensions and a good deep well 6 point make that job a lot easier too.

 

[Romeo1]

ToyotaBrah, don't feel bad. This sort of thing happens. I had to remove and reinstall a turbo from a 7.3 power stroke about 20 years ago on a Sunday after I pinched the supply side O-ring and dumped about 2 gallons of 15-40 on the shop floor rickety tick.... 28gpm oil pump is no joke.....lol. That's probably the most I've ever sworn in my life. They were a damn job too. Half a day the first go, probably 1.5 hours the second go being fueled by hatred for my screw up.

 

[diverscale]

Why was the oil cooler replaced?

 

[brillo_76]

Grease works well too. Just have to watch what kind you're using. Sometimes certain greasers don't interact well with certain O-rings and they get a little swollen.

Long extensions and a good deep well 6 point make that job a lot easier too.

Valid point

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[brillo_76]

Yes don't feel bad at all. I just over seated a seal in a toyota sienna rear axle. Had to get another seal and go the next size up on yhe seal press.

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[2000se]

this is excellent.

Thank you for providing the part numbers. Mine has had a small leak and now I might just have to fix it.

 

[amalik]

Was it leaking or what? This doesn't seem like a preventative maintenance part.

Were you able to do this just from the wheel well access next to oil filter?

 

[brillo_76]

Was it leaking or what? This doesn't seem like a preventative maintenance part.



Were you able to do this just from the wheel well access next to oil filter?

After lots of miles. Folks like to refresh the hoses and bolt seal. So the hose doesn't crack, and they loose all their oil out of their engine.

It's tight but can be done through the drivers wheel well.

Granted, I haven't heard of these lines blowing. Just leaks..

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[amalik]

After lots of miles. Folks like to refresh the hoses and bolt seal. So the hose doesn't crack, and they loose all their oil out of their engine.

It's tight but can be done through the drivers wheel well.

Granted, I haven't heard of these lines blowing. Just leaks..

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That is one hell of a failure point...

 

[brillo_76]

That is one hell of a failure point...

They did something worse on the 1GR -FE. Corrected in the 2GR-Fe, they put a metal pipe back in. Because of higher milage engines, lines rubber lines could blow, and the engine is out of oil before you could even stop.

So it's actually recommended if you have a 1gr-fe to put the 2Gr-fe metal pipe in and get rid of the rubber oil hose.

On the 5vz-fe, that longer hose is antifreeze along with the shorter hose. So not half as critical as the 1GR-FE because it's coolant not oil flowing outside the block.



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[amalik]

They did something worse on the 1GR -FE. Corrected in the 2GR-Fe, they put a metal pipe back in. Because of higher milage engines, lines rubber lines could blow, and the engine is out of oil before you could even stop.

So it's actually recommended if you have a 1gr-fe to put the 2Gr-fe metal pipe in and get rid of the rubber oil hose.

On the 5vz-fe, that longer hose is antifreeze along with the shorter hose. So not half as critical as the 1GR-FE because it's coolant not oil flowing outside the block.



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But aren't you saying the same about the 5VZ-FE?

After lots of miles. Folks like to refresh the hoses and bolt seal. So the hose doesn't crack, and they loose all their oil out of their engine.

 

[brillo_76]

But aren't you saying the same about the 5VZ-FE?

After lots of miles. Folks like to refresh the hoses and bolt seal. So the hose doesn't crack, and they loose all their oil out of their engine.

Have to lose the bolt seal and o-ring that is on the block.. I cant say I ever hear of it happening. But possible.. Mistake on the hoses though the 5VZ-FE is only carrying coolant. The 1GR-FE carries the oil.. I work on too many different types of Toyota engines...:frusty: Thanks for the correction..

 

[spartacus]

Used some contact spray adhesive for rubber, on a 92 camry water pump gasket, few years back without any issues.

 

[ToyotaBrah]

Was it leaking or what? This doesn't seem like a preventative maintenance part.

Were you able to do this just from the wheel well access next to oil filter?

Neither the hoses or the oil cooler were leaking, and I still elected to replace them. 23 year old hoses that were beginning to swell, they exceeded their service life. They will leak, or worse, burst, and I would rather replace them from the convenience of my driveway than on the road. All of the other coolant hoses have been replaced. I just have the fuel system lines to focus on next.

Diverscale- The original oil cooler was just cleaned thoroughly. That part costs a bit much to replace ($420+).

Thanks everyone for the advice. Replacing it tomorrow. Will keep this thread updated.

 

[poisedforflight]

Neither the hoses or the oil cooler were leaking, and I still elected to replace them. 23 year old hoses that were beginning to swell, they exceeded their service life. They will leak, or worse, burst, and I would rather replace them from the convenience of my driveway than on the road. All of the other coolant hoses have been replaced. I just have the fuel system lines to focus on next.

Diverscale- The original oil cooler was just cleaned thoroughly. That part costs a bit much to replace ($420+).

Thanks everyone for the advice. Replacing it tomorrow. Will keep this thread updated.

How did you clean it? Are there any mechanical parts to service in it?