UPCOMING: Oil Cooler Gasket Replacement

Trying to do this now. Got the hoses off and the bolt out but the damn cooler is "bonded" to the block.

Any tricks?

There seems to be no way to get behind it to pry and banging on it with a crowbar is not doing much.
 
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I got this maintenance planned also. Haven't done it yet so I can't offer any experiences.
Negusm, would removing the oil filter create more room to get at the cooler?
 
No, removing the oil filter doesnt provide any additional room.

For the guy with the stuck oil cooler - can you get something long behind the cooler from behind and under the front wheel?
 
OK guys, I will do a "photo documentary" and write up on the change. I am just hoping it is as easy as it seems in the FSM. I think this is something that has to impact ALL of our T4R's at one point or another and if I can help someone save some time and take the questions out of doing it on their own rig, I am happy to do it!

I'm still working on my preventative maintenance to ensure my 4R is set for the long haul (and future off-roading trips)

You don't happen to have a photo of this area do you? Also... what all parts do you recommend be swapped out while in there?

:banana:
 
I'm still working on my preventative maintenance to ensure my 4R is set for the long haul (and future off-roading trips)

You don't happen to have a photo of this area do you? Also... what all parts do you recommend be swapped out while in there?

:banana:

The cooler has two gaskets - one large and one small. One goes between the cooler and the engine block and one goes between the bolt head and the cooler.

If you're feeling froggy, there are also two small coolant lines that can be swapped out while you're in there. I left mine alone because they weren't leaking, but if you're one of those fix-it-before-it-breaks types, they aren't too expensive. It's a tight squeeze in that area and a pair or two of hose clamp pliers will be your best friend.
 
The cooler has two gaskets - one large and one small. One goes between the cooler and the engine block and one goes between the bolt head and the cooler.

If you're feeling froggy, there are also two small coolant lines that can be swapped out while you're in there. I left mine alone because they weren't leaking, but if you're one of those fix-it-before-it-breaks types, they aren't too expensive. It's a tight squeeze in that area and a pair or two of hose clamp pliers will be your best friend.

Do you by chance have the part numbers for the lines? :jump:
 
I decided that since it was so stuck on there...that it probably wasn't leaking....so I just put the bolt back in with a new OEM washer and torqued it.

I'll watch it. I am doing a fairly massive overhaul on the old girl and this was on the list...but can be done later. I did get the oil cooler hoses replaced. I will HIGHLY urge anyone doing this to get HOSE CLAMP and HOSE PULLING pliers. It made breaking those hose loose and removing them easy peasy.

Drake 4502 Hose Clamp Pliers Set - 2 Piece (the package actually said OTC)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1KJT8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
GEARWRENCH 3 Pc. Double-X Hose Grip Plier Set - 82107
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012S99ZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was replacing ALL vacuum hoses and a good number of coolant hoses...and these things paid for themselves time and again in eliminating the frustration a stuck hose give you.

Most of my oil leak was from the valve covers I am fairly certain. The engine bay was caked in gunk.
 
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