UPDATE! 5th Gen 4Runner Q&A Series - Questions

What is the generally accepted shelf life of a tire. ie when should it be replaced regardless of little tread wear?

How do you tell the manufacture date of a tire so you don't purchase something that has been sitting on the shelf for a couple years, thus reducing the useful life, regardless of tread wear.

If a low mileage driver like me I generally have to replace tires based on age rather than mileage. Thus I refuse to take any tire that is more than a few months old. If buying a used vehicle it's good to check that tire manufacture date as well.
 
Been doing a lot of research here and found a lot of useful information, here is my senerio.

I bought my wife a 2016 sr5 premium 2wd. I want to do the daystar 2.5/1.5 spacer kit. I was undecided on wheel size for a while but after looking around my best option is 20x9 0offset. Moto metal mo970 (because I really like that wheel). With a 275/55/20 cooper zeon ltz. (Really want to run this tire)
From what I gather I shouldn't rub at all. But I want a little conformation.
Will I have issues getting a proper alignment? If anyone has pics of this set up that would be great. Keep in mind this truck will see little to no off road use, it my wife's daily driver.
Thanks


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 
But seriously:

1. Explain the relationship between multi-terrain select and how it relates to the ABS system and your gearbox.
more:

1. explain the differences between Multi-Terrain Select (MTS) and Crawl Control (CRAWL) and the relationship of these discrete modes to Active-TRAC (A-TRAC) and the ABS system and gearbox.

2. explain the differences between A-TRAC, TRAC, and VSC, and how to disable both TRAC and VSC by holding down the TRAC button for ~3+ seconds while vehicle is stationary.

"Demystifying the Trail's Overhead Console Controls", more or less
 
OK just had a reminder of this in "What did you do today" thread.

How about a quick tutorial on how to remove picture links when quoting a post so we don't have to scroll through the same half dozen pics just to see someone say, "Awesome truck."
 
Questions

1. Pros/cons for the various skid plate manufacturers and OEM. I'm wondering what is appropriate for light offroad use, versus just keeping the bottom clean, versus actually sliding over rocks.

2. I just got a new-to-me 5G4R. What should I check out? What should I definitely service?

3. Authoritative guide for A-Trac, DAG, and interaction with transfer case modes. There seems to plenty of misinformation out there on this, and lots of resulting confusion.

4. Keys, fobs, and programming fun. Is it possible to DIY this on a 5th Gen? If so, how?

And, from a newb, thanks for the great site and info. I'll be reading... :hello:
 
Hi,

I'm new here on this website and wanted some clarification: I see some people who have a Dual battery set-up in their trucks. And I see some here who have a very high output rating from their alternator... which one is best?
 
If you have a lean on drivers side to start and add rear spacers when lifting - will the lean still exist after install?
 
What are the necessary upgrades if I lift everything 3 inches? For example, will I need extended brake lines, bump stops, etc?
 
What are the necessary upgrades if I lift everything 3 inches? For example, will I need extended brake lines, bump stops, etc?

For a 3 inch lift I think it is reasonable to extend the rear bump stops, but it probably is not necessary. In the rear there are two different sets of bump stops. There are outer ones on the frame rails that only bump on articulation. There are also rubber bump stops inside the coil springs on top. Those are the primary bump stops and will usually be retained with rear lift springs.

On the front you do not need to change bump stops. The front does not need brake lines either. Generally the only change to the front in addition to coilovers is moving the sway bar on non-KDSS vehicles which may not be necessary, but I believe it is somewhat common, and replacing the upper control arms with aftermarket ones to correct the loss of castor.

If you want a long travel rear suspension as part of your lift I think it may be reasonable and/or necessary depending on your setup to extend the rear brake line. In the alternative you could add a limiting strap in the center.
 
If you have a lean on drivers side to start and add rear spacers when lifting - will the lean still exist after install?

There are a lot of factors that cause a lean. There are various ways to level out the vehicle. Generally they involve adding some type of additional spring spacer or preload setting on the front because it's a bit easier to do up front. If you start with a left side lean and add the same height to all 4 springs, it's likely that you will retain the lean after the lift.
 
I am installing 275/70 KO2s today. I'd like to lift the front to level out the rake. I have a bone stock '16 SR5. I want to do this as easily and cheaply as possible (unless it is a total sacrifice of ride quality/comfort or is potentially damaging to components of course)

I've heard of 1" spacers, but that they can bottom out the shocks. I've also been told 5100s at .85 is the way to go. Is that really all I need? New shocks? Is there a write up for this install or is it best left to a professional? (I am competent with a wrench but do not have suspension specific kit like spring compressors)

How can I do this? Please talk to me like I am an idiot, because I am. Just to make a point, I don't even know where to buy Bilstein 5100 shocks that fit my T4R...:(
 
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Questions/Topics/How to's & Answers I'd like to see here:

How to achieve front wheel mud flap clearance for 33" and a 3" lift? I've moved the front inner wheel plastic forward and trimmed the bumper plastic so that's all clear but I'm getting rubbing on the mud flap and can't see an obvious way of moving the mud flap back. I also have a very detailed, the most I've seen so far here, on how to move the front inner plastic forward on my build thread, happy to contribute that.

How to remove interior paneling without damaging clips or scratching including: Door panels, door handle trim, dash (especially around switches), center consol, headliner, rear hatch sides and rear gate.

How to wire in external light sources, such as LED light bars (multiple roof top lights) mounted to a roof rack - water proofing/sealing body entry points for wiring, run locations, etc.

How to relocate the XM shark fin antenna to the front or another location where a roof rack won't block signal. Might also include the Toyota Camry low profile antenna swap info here too.

How to hard wire in accessories, like radar detector, dash cam, etc. through rear view mirror wire tube and hard wire iphone charger/USB on a driver or passenger side A pillar.

How to upgrade all speakers while keeping the user interface stock. This might include a sub, amp, tweeters and all speakers.

How to add an auxiliary fuel tank or install a larger single fuel tank. Potentially using spare tire area if safe or possible.

Dual battery options for accessories like winch, LED light bars, additional 400 watt 110 - 120 V outlet (for a total of 2), and other accessories. What's best for winch in a dual battery set up, such as direct connect to battery or through a solenoid? Would love to see details on the Kodiak Odyssey system since their website is weak.

"Big 3" about and how to.

Diff cooling, when, why and how.

Air Compressor/Dual Air Compressor placement under the hood, how to keep it clean from dirt in the engine bay. Pros and cons vs. installing in the rear cargo area behind plastic paneling.

What's the largest compressor-attached air tank that can fit in the engine bay with a dual air compressor and what's the best place? Recommended models or brands?

Backup camera relocation or auxiliary backup camera leaving OEM in place when using a tire gate bumper or hitch gate spare tire carrier.

Full skid plate options specifically optimized for good breathing/air flow and best weight to strength ratio for lightest weight impact to vehicle.

CB & HAM/CB stealth install including wiring, antenna placement options. Complete list of available antenna mounts.

HID headlight install without introducing moisture/condensation intrusion risk. Recommended brands/models.

That's about all I can think of at the moment....
 
I am installing 275/70 KO2s today. I'd like to lift the front to level out the rake. I have a bone stock '16 SR5. I want to do this as easily and cheaply as possible (unless it is a total sacrifice of ride quality/comfort or is potentially damaging to components of course)

I've heard of 1" spacers, but that they can bottom out the shocks. I've also been told 5100s at .85 is the way to go. Is that really all I need? New shocks? Is there a write up for this install or is it best left to a professional? (I am competent with a wrench but do not have suspension specific kit like spring compressors)

How can I do this? Please talk to me like I am an idiot, because I am. Just to make a point, I don't even know where to buy Bilstein 5100 shocks that fit my T4R...:(

Some people swear by only spacers especially if they don't plan on doing much off road driving. Ride quality difference will be minimal at best with the very mild lift. This lets you keep your stock struts/shocks and accomplish what you want for the lowest cost.

You can do just Bilstein's like you said and those can be had on amazon, automotive anything, or total automotive performance for pretty fair prices. Cost is only a little more especially if you just replace the front to level it out.

Either way both setups can be done by following a write that I referenced to do mine. Toytec Top Plate Spacer Lift Though I had to use the KDSS write up as well. You'll need spring compressors for the Bilstein setup but I just rented some from auto zone. I am no mechanic but the way Sp8Ball writes it up makes it much simpler. If you decide to do the install have someone there to give a hand, you might need it...I sure did.
 
[MENTION=144979]ToyoDriver[/MENTION]

Some people swear by only spacers especially if they don't plan on doing much off road driving. Ride quality difference will be minimal at best with the very mild lift. This lets you keep your stock struts/shocks and accomplish what you want for the lowest cost.

You can do just Bilstein's like you said and those can be had on amazon, automotive anything, or total automotive performance for pretty fair prices. Cost is only a little more especially if you just replace the front to level it out.

Either way both setups can be done by following a write that I referenced to do mine. Toytec Top Plate Spacer Lift Though I had to use the KDSS write up as well. You'll need spring compressors for the Bilstein setup but I just rented some from auto zone. I am no mechanic but the way Sp8Ball writes it up makes it much simpler. If you decide to do the install have someone there to give a hand, you might need it...I sure did.

^^^What he said. My 2007, I did the spacer lift with a friend and took out some of the nasty factory rake. Never even noticed a difference in ride quality. This time around, I wanted a bit more of a mild lift, so I went with 5100s all around with 1.75 front settings and 1 inch rear spacers (had a shop do the install tho). Not ideal for off-road, but I’m still 98% on-road at this point. That hopefully changes over this next year, and I may be upgrading all my suspension again to something more serious... we’ll see.

Short of it, IMO based off what you said, 1 inch front spacers and be done with it.
 

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