Upgrading sounds system, need recommendations/advice :help:

lewisp

New member
:help:

Hey guys, I'm getting ready to upgrade my stock stereo system in my 2002 4Runner. I've been using crutchfield.com to find the components I want. I.m not very knowledgeable in this stuff, so I was hoping to get some good advice/recommendations on what would be the best bang for the buck.
I already have an Alpine CDE-103bt which works good. I like bass, but dont want to sound like a bass heavy Honda civic haha. I would like to keep it around $400 if possible.So if anyone can help me out, I'd really appreciate it!!!

I'm not real enthused about having a huge subwoofer taking up space.

So far I am thinking about these:
Front doors
Polk Audio db651s 6-1/2" 2-way shallow-mount car speakers at Crutchfield.com

These for rear doors
Polk Audio db401 4" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com

Possibly this subwoofer
Polk Audio DXi 108 Ported enclosure with one 8" DXi Series subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

Possibly this amp
Amazon.com: Polk Audio PA330 MOSFET Car Amplifier: Car Electronics

Some of these products are cheaper on amazon, so I may buy some components from each site.

Thanks guys
 
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Audio setups are a matter of opinion.

I am planning out an Alpine system to be installed later this June/July.

My plans:
Alpine Head Unit
HD Backup camera
Alpine PDX-F4 (100W RMS x 4)
Alpine Type-Rs (front and rear)
JL-Audio shallow 8" Sub and box
Alpine 300W mono-block amp.
Dynamat doors


Things can get expensive real quick!
 
Yeah that's what you get. Those polks aren't too bad, but the infinity's will give you a better sound stage. Also for the amp, you probably want to go with a 4 channel amp. Run the rear speakers off of the head-unit, and use the other 2 channels on the amp to power the subwoofer.

MB Quart FX4.70 (fx470) 4-Channel Formula Series Car Amplifier

This would be a much better choice for your amp.

Which sub would you get? I would like something that doesn't take up a lot of space.
 
That 8" sub you posted is about as small as you can get and still get decent punch. There are also bass "tubes". You could fabricate an 8" one using PVC and some MDF if you are handy. If not you could go with a single 10" truck box and a shallow mount 10. Those are probably your best options without getting into massive fabrication.
 
Your system sounds nice, little out of my price range right now though... What could I get for around $400? I already have a deck (Alpine CDE-103bt).

Thanks
 
That 8" sub you posted is about as small as you can get and still get decent punch. There are also bass "tubes". You could fabricate an 8" one using PVC and some MDF if you are handy. If not you could go with a single 10" truck box and a shallow mount 10. Those are probably your best options without getting into massive fabrication.

Thanks man!
 
Thanks man!


Forgot to add. Hit up Walmart and get some polyfill pillow filler. Add that to whatever sub you end up with and it will trick the sub into thinking its in a larger box, which will help to improve the low end frequency response.
 
why don't you skip the SUB for now.

Keep the Alpine HU.

Spend the $400 like this:

$150 on Infinity Reference front & rear
$110 dynamat kit, enough for both front door, skip rear (x2, $55 each kit)
$200 Alpine 4 Channel Receiver
$40 4G Amp kit (always go with 4G, never 8)
$25 14g speaker wires

NOW THAT WOULD BE A DECENT SYSTEM minus a sub.
But the dynamat'ed doors will sound pretty good for a few months while you save up for a sub.

Wait a few months and buy a decent sub & amp for $350-$400.
 
What are you shooting for? Do you want more of a quality audio system or a loud system. Its cheaper to have one or the other. It gets expensive when you want both worlds.

Try to find the best system that has a powerful amplifier with low Ohm load speakers. This means more power will run through the system and your resistance level will be lower. You can bridge wires into series(A) together instead of running them parallel(B).
series-parallel-f1.gif


There are many electrical configurations and speakers/components, and amplifiers, etc. that will determination the sound system.
 
What are you shooting for? Do you want more of a quality audio system or a loud system. Its cheaper to have one or the other. It gets expensive when you want both worlds.

Try to find the best system that has a powerful amplifier with low Ohm load speakers. This means more power will run through the system and your resistance level will be lower. You can bridge wires into series(A) together instead of running them parallel(B).
series-parallel-f1.gif


There are many electrical configurations and speakers/components, and amplifiers, etc. that will determination the sound system.

In looking for more of a quality audio system, I don't need to rattle people's cars with my base, or have it so loud they can hear everything. I guess I'm kinda going toward the kind of clarity and performance that's expected from a Bose system, and not so much what you hear in a Honda civic or something like that. If that makes any sense haha
 
In looking for more of a quality audio system, I don't need to rattle people's cars with my base, or have it so loud they can hear everything. I guess I'm kinda going toward the kind of clarity and performance that's expected from a Bose system, and not so much what you hear in a Honda civic or something like that. If that makes any sense haha

So mainly what factory luxury lines of Toyotas come with today, right?
Like the Infiniti speaker setup in my moms Sienna or something.
I would go with Polk I guess. If your not going to run 750-1000 watts through speakers, then Polk Audio will suffice. They are known for their house systems and I have surround sound in my family room from Polk.

If you only care about yourself!! Kidding... and you want only to make your cabin sound nice, then do like a 350-450 watt amplifier by Polk, Kicker, or Alpine. I could literally talk all day on this stuff.

That is why I normally don't get involved with car audio questions. I inform too much. But if you have specifics, let me know bud.
 
why don't you skip the SUB for now.

Keep the Alpine HU.

Spend the $400 like this:

$150 on Infinity Reference front & rear
$110 dynamat kit, enough for both front door, skip rear (x2, $55 each kit)
$200 Alpine 4 Channel Receiver
$40 4G Amp kit (always go with 4G, never 8)
$25 14g speaker wires

NOW THAT WOULD BE A DECENT SYSTEM minus a sub.
But the dynamat'ed doors will sound pretty good for a few months while you save up for a sub.

Wait a few months and buy a decent sub & amp for $350-$400.

That seems like a good start, thanks!
 
The system below is $482 and is a significant upgrade to any 4Runner Audio System. I assume you have a decent head unit.


You should look on EBAY. I know its "grey-market" stuff but a lot of the power sellers offer 2-year warranties and have 30,000+ reviews.


You can buy a decent Alpine 55W x 4 RMS amp for about $128 on EBAY.
Alpine MRP F300 V Power Series 300W RMS Class AB Car Audio 4 Channel Amplifier 4958043510771 | eBay




Those reference speakers can be had for ~ $100.

Infinity 6030CS Reference Series 6 5" 540W 2 Way Car Component Speakers System 050667110390 | eBay

Infinity Reference 6030CS 6 1 2" 2 Way 540W Loudspeaker Component System 050667110390 | eBay


$60 for the 5.25" for the rear. Minor cutting required. It's easy though.
Infinity 5 1 4" 2 Way 270W Reference Coaxial Full Range Car Stereo Door Speakers | eBay


$35 for AMP KIT 4G. BE SURE TO GET A GOOD 4G ONE!
My recommendation: Amazon.com: DB Link CK4Z 4 Gauge Competition Series Amplifier Installation Kit-Blue: Electronics


$110 for (2) $55 Dynamat Door Kits. This is worth it and will hold you over until you get subs down the road.
Dynamat 10435 12" x 36" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener with Xtreme Door Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive


$29 for (1) 6.6 ft Monster Stereo Cable - Should Work for the 4 Channel Amp

Monster Cable Stereo Audio 200i (2 meters/6.6 ft.) Stereo interconnect cables with RCA plugs at Crutchfield.com

$10 for (1) 15-ft Subwoofer Cable. Run this even though you don't have a sub yet :)
Amazon.com: Mediabridge Ultra Series Subwoofer Cable - ( 15 Feet ) - Dual Shielded with RCA to RCA Gold Plated Pro Grade Connectors: Electronics


$10 for (2) of these $5 Single-Female-Y-Adapter
You will be running a 4-ohm non bridged Alpine 4-channel setup. You can control the fade manually using the two gain settings. This way you run less cable!
Amazon.com: Monster ILJRY-1 F Single Female RCA to Dual Male RCA Y-Adapter: Electronics


Additional instructions:
* Run a single 12ft subwoofer RCA cable (Monster quality) to the rear seats.
* Run a stereo 9 or 12ft RCA cable (monster quality) to underneith drivers seat.
* Run new 14G stereo cable for all speakers. Yes you have to remove some of the interior to run the cbale but mainly the doors and door-jam plastic. You will not regret running new cable. Be sure to mark + and -.
* Run a completely new ground and positive for the head unit. This should be 12G power and have a 25A (or smaller) fuse within 12" of battery
* Run the 4G power from battery through firewall along door area and to a 4G distro block placed under the rear passenger drivers side seat. You need the block so you can add another 4G amp for the sub in a few months.
* Run the black 4G ground cable less than 3 feet to a ground. I unbolted the seat-belt from the truck body, scrapped off the paint, placed the ground wire between the metal seat-belt clip holder and the body. Install bolt and tighten. Ground is now good!

If you follow my instructions you will not have an audio loop whine.

If you reuse the factory wiring you may have a whine.

You're going to spend $400 either way. You might as well do it right.
 
Last edited:
NP.

You should look on EBAY. I know its "grey-market" stuff but a lot of the power sellers offer 2-year warranties and have 30,000+ reviews.


You can buy a decent Alpine 55W x 4 RMS amp for about $128 on EBAY.
Alpine MRP F300 V Power Series 300W RMS Class AB Car Audio 4 Channel Amplifier 4958043510771 | eBay




Those reference speakers can be had for ~ $100.

Infinity 6030CS Reference Series 6 5" 540W 2 Way Car Component Speakers System 050667110390 | eBay

Infinity Reference 6030CS 6 1 2" 2 Way 540W Loudspeaker Component System 050667110390 | eBay


$60 for the 5.25" for the rear. Minor cutting required. It's easy though.

Infinity 5 1 4" 2 Way 270W Reference Coaxial Full Range Car Stereo Door Speakers | eBay


$35 for AMP KIT 4G. BE SURE TO GET A GOOD 4G ONE!
My recommendation: Amazon.com: DB Link CK4Z 4 Gauge Competition Series Amplifier Installation Kit-Blue: Electronics


$110 for two Dynamat Door Kits. This is worth it and will hold you over until you get subs down the road.
Dynamat 10435 12" x 36" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener with Xtreme Door Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive

This is a dumb question, but I don't know much of this stuff. What are the black rectangle boxes that come with the infinity speakers, and if I don't have a sub yet, do they need to hooked up?
 
The speakers show pictures with additional pieces that are like plastic adapters. You don't need those. Once you get the speakers on-hand it will be easy to see how they are installed.

You should also consider looking for a guide outside of T4R. There are a lot of good sites out there. Look on Crutchfield!
 
This is a dumb question, but I don't know much of this stuff. What are the black rectangle boxes that come with the infinity speakers, and if I don't have a sub yet, do they need to hooked up?

Hmm. I haven't seen any pictures but they should be high-pass filters for your speakers. They basically keep all low frequencies from playing through your speakers. It cuts off all low-pass.

The product of the resistance and capacitance (R×C) is the time constant (τ); it is inversely proportional to the cutoff frequency fc, that is,

7d87bc118166402407c6194a521f4eac.png


Sorry, that sounded douschey :D
Without them, your speakers will be able to play low frequencies like subwoofers but you will likely damage them. Wire them up or keep them wired up. I have mine.
 

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