Ok cool, yeah I've been using crutch field, they seem to cover everything!
Upgrading sounds system, need recommendations/advice :help:
- Thread starter lewisp
- Start date
Ok cool, yeah I've been using crutch field, they seem to cover everything!
robb1887
New member
Black boxes are called cross overs. They take speaker input from the amp, and split the signal, high frequencies get sent to the tweeter, lows to the mid-bass cone. One wire goes in, two comes out. It gives you better clarity due to the fact that the speaker isn't trying to reproduce frequencies it was not made to make.
The Alpine has all of the following, but if you plan on getting something else I'd be sure to look at these:
If you plan on running the rears off the head unit and get a 4-way amp and plan to run the fronts of it and bridge two for the sub you will need to make sure that the amp is capable of being bridged. Some arent.
Also, if you plan on doing it this way you might make sure that it has varible hi/lo pass filters, you'd want a hipass filter on your outputs for the front speakers(blocks low frequencies from trying to be reproduced by your highs/midbass speakers), and a lowpass filter for the sub channel (vise versa). This again helps for clarity on the same principle of the componet speaker crossovers mentioned above.
And because I want to show off. This is my custom set up in my BMW I built. I used to work in a car audio/electronics shop in college.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1421641
The Alpine has all of the following, but if you plan on getting something else I'd be sure to look at these:
If you plan on running the rears off the head unit and get a 4-way amp and plan to run the fronts of it and bridge two for the sub you will need to make sure that the amp is capable of being bridged. Some arent.
Also, if you plan on doing it this way you might make sure that it has varible hi/lo pass filters, you'd want a hipass filter on your outputs for the front speakers(blocks low frequencies from trying to be reproduced by your highs/midbass speakers), and a lowpass filter for the sub channel (vise versa). This again helps for clarity on the same principle of the componet speaker crossovers mentioned above.
And because I want to show off. This is my custom set up in my BMW I built. I used to work in a car audio/electronics shop in college.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1421641
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I'll keep that in mind. I need to do some heavy research to help myself understand what all of that means so I don't buy the wrong components. Thanks Robb
BrianSD_42
New member
All of the components I mentioned in my post have crossovers and work perfectly together.
Also the comment earlier that you should buy 2-ohm speakers because of the increased power is grossly misleading. Building a quality system is more complicated and simple statements like that will confuse noobs & OP.
Also the comment earlier that you should buy 2-ohm speakers because of the increased power is grossly misleading. Building a quality system is more complicated and simple statements like that will confuse noobs & OP.
The system below is $482 and is a significant upgrade to any 4Runner Audio System. I assume you have a decent head unit.
You should look on EBAY. I know its "grey-market" stuff but a lot of the power sellers offer 2-year warranties and have 30,000+ reviews.
You can buy a decent Alpine 55W x 4 RMS amp for about $128 on EBAY.
Alpine MRP F300 V Power Series 300W RMS Class AB Car Audio 4 Channel Amplifier 4958043510771 | eBay
Those reference speakers can be had for ~ $100.
Infinity 6030CS Reference Series 6 5" 540W 2 Way Car Component Speakers System 050667110390 | eBay
Infinity Reference 6030CS 6 1 2" 2 Way 540W Loudspeaker Component System 050667110390 | eBay
$60 for the 5.25" for the rear. Minor cutting required. It's easy though.
Infinity 5 1 4" 2 Way 270W Reference Coaxial Full Range Car Stereo Door Speakers | eBay
$35 for AMP KIT 4G. BE SURE TO GET A GOOD 4G ONE!
My recommendation: Amazon.com: DB Link CK4Z 4 Gauge Competition Series Amplifier Installation Kit-Blue: Electronics
$110 for (2) $55 Dynamat Door Kits. This is worth it and will hold you over until you get subs down the road.
Dynamat 10435 12" x 36" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener with Xtreme Door Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive
$29 for (1) 6.6 ft Monster Stereo Cable - Should Work for the 4 Channel Amp
Monster Cable Stereo Audio 200i (2 meters/6.6 ft.) Stereo interconnect cables with RCA plugs at Crutchfield.com
$10 for (1) 15-ft Subwoofer Cable. Run this even though you don't have a sub yet
Amazon.com: Mediabridge Ultra Series Subwoofer Cable - ( 15 Feet ) - Dual Shielded with RCA to RCA Gold Plated Pro Grade Connectors: Electronics
$10 for (2) of these $5 Single-Female-Y-Adapter
You will be running a 4-ohm non bridged Alpine 4-channel setup. You can control the fade manually using the two gain settings. This way you run less cable!
Amazon.com: Monster ILJRY-1 F Single Female RCA to Dual Male RCA Y-Adapter: Electronics
Additional instructions:
* Run a single 12ft subwoofer RCA cable (Monster quality) to the rear seats.
* Run a stereo 9 or 12ft RCA cable (monster quality) to underneith drivers seat.
* Run new 14G stereo cable for all speakers. Yes you have to remove some of the interior to run the cbale but mainly the doors and door-jam plastic. You will not regret running new cable. Be sure to mark + and -.
* Run a completely new ground and positive for the head unit. This should be 12G power and have a 25A (or smaller) fuse within 12" of battery
* Run the 4G power from battery through firewall along door area and to a 4G distro block placed under the rear passenger drivers side seat. You need the block so you can add another 4G amp for the sub in a few months.
* Run the black 4G ground cable less than 3 feet to a ground. I unbolted the seat-belt from the truck body, scrapped off the paint, placed the ground wire between the metal seat-belt clip holder and the body. Install bolt and tighten. Ground is now good!
If you follow my instructions you will not have an audio loop whine.
If you reuse the factory wiring you may have a whine.
You're going to spend $400 either way. You might as well do it right.
I'll most likely do exactly this, thanks for all the detail!
robb1887
New member
All of this is true.
athought 2-ohm speakers will sound louder, you also sacrifice clarity. The most common on the market is a 4 ohm setup, I would suggest staying with 4ohm due to its popularity (ease of sourcing, balance "loudness"/clarity, and HUGE selection)
BrianSD_42
New member
OP (original-poster),
You are kind of new so here's an FYI:
You don't have to quote entire huge posts. You can go into EDIT and delete all but the relevant parts of text you want to quote. Just saying
When you do decide to add an amp and sub using a 2 ohm load is quite common. Typically this is accomplished by added a dual 4-ohm voice coil subwoofer. The two 4-ohm voice-coils present a 2-ohm load to the amplifier.
But for the door speakers go with 4-ohm. Those infinity reference speakers are 4-ohm even though some websites list them as 2-ohm. That is infinity's fault for marketing them as "2-ohm VC plus wiring equals 4-ohm". Just know all reference speakers are true 4 ohm.
You are kind of new so here's an FYI:
You don't have to quote entire huge posts. You can go into EDIT and delete all but the relevant parts of text you want to quote. Just saying
When you do decide to add an amp and sub using a 2 ohm load is quite common. Typically this is accomplished by added a dual 4-ohm voice coil subwoofer. The two 4-ohm voice-coils present a 2-ohm load to the amplifier.
But for the door speakers go with 4-ohm. Those infinity reference speakers are 4-ohm even though some websites list them as 2-ohm. That is infinity's fault for marketing them as "2-ohm VC plus wiring equals 4-ohm". Just know all reference speakers are true 4 ohm.
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BrianSD_42
New member
No problem. Good luck with the stereo build.
TheDurk
Elite Member
Very impressive. I also have a e36 ('99 'vert) in the family fleet (youngest's college car) and they are not sound system friendly. PM'íng you a question, if you don't mind. I'm also on bimmerforums...
I plan to also upgrade the entire stock oem stereo system in my '96 4Runner, but I was wondering whether I can do it in stages, i.e. install the head unit now and then the amp and speakers later? or would it be easier/best to just do it all at once when I have the dash apart anyway...?
