URD 7th Injector Tuning Guide

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URD 7th Injector Tuning Guide


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Helpful Links
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/140556-urd-7th-injector-tuning-maps.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/154740-urd-7th-injector-install.html
U-Tune by gadget - This is where i get most of my information concerning this thread.

Introduction

Tuning a vehicle after adding forced induction is important so that it protect the internals of your motor. The sole purpose of tuning a vehicle is to inject the proper amount of Air to Fuel Ratio, aka (AFR) and Timing so that you maximize efficiency and decrease heat within the motor.

In order to properly tune a vehicle, it is best to have the correct gauges and tools already in place so there is no guessing of values, or seat of the pants feel.


My Vehicle and Components


2000 Limited 4Runner,

3.4L Second Generation Black Supercharger,

URD 7th Injector (click for link),

URD 2.2" Pulley (click for link).


Things You Will Need

A Wide Band AFR sensor installed in the exhaust,

A Windows based laptop (I am unsure if it will work on widows 10),

R4 programming CD rom,

USB to Serial cable,

Base tune map from URD, this can also be emailed to you.

cab1f96d1696265bf74b9ab889c3297c.jpg


The 7th injector previously installed on your truck. (if you need installation instructions contact URD at [email protected] and ask for the installation instructions provided some information about yours truck (year, engine ect.)


Lets get started

Begin by installing the R4 software on your laptop, this is done the same as any other program previously installed from a CD. Save it and create an icon in a recognizable place such as the desktop. Go ahead and run the program.


Most of the instructions will be taken from URD U-Tune guide, but i will also simplify the instructions and describe problems I experianced along the way.

We are going to start by creating a file, ground zero for our tune.

19673382591_6889af48bb.jpg


1. Click on FILE in the menu and select NEW CUSTOMER.

2. TYPE whatever name you want for the new file you are creating and click SAVE.

3. Click FILE and OPEN CUSTOMER.

4. SELECT the file that you just named.


Now we are going to adjust settings according to our vehicle so that the R4 software and the vehicle can communicate properly.

1. CLICK on OPTIONS in the menu.

2. Select SYSTEM SETTINGS. In DISPLAY MODE select VACUUM/PRESSURE and in APPLICATION select ADDITIONAL INJECTOR CONTROLLER. Now close that window.
19661813482_fae38b200c.jpg


3. Click on OPTIONS in the menu.

4. Select ENGINE SETTINGS, and then select the CORRECT number of cylinders and stroke referenced from the APPLICATION section of this guide.
For the 3.4L engine.

19661813332_fe6a77257c_m.jpg



Model AIC/Timing Calibrator: AIC with Timing Control

Engine: 5VZ-FE 3.4 V6, 1MZFE 3.0 V6, 1GR-FE 4.0 V6

Year All

Engine Settings: 3 Cylinders / 2 Stroke

Map A: Controls Timing Calibration

Map B: Controls Injector control


This is usually very different from what you might expect. Then close that window.

Sometimes URD loads the base map on the AIC prior to shipping to as a quality check. We need to extract that map off the AIC and save it to the laptop. To do so:

19482275389_f752c145c5_m.jpg


1. Connect your PC to the Calibrator with a USB Serial cable. Select the proper COM 1-8 port. Turn the key to the ON position to provide power to the Calibrator, (but dont start the vehicle). Click on the CONNECT TO ECU button. This will connect you to the Calibrator. The disconnect button should become active once the connection is made. If you can not connect, try switching to a new com port.



2. Click on MAPS in the menu and select FUEL MAPS. This will open the map page.

19668904525_1f93e54146.jpg


3. In the upper left corner of the map page are two buttons. One will write data to the ECU (AIC) and one will read data from the ECU (AIC). You want to click on the “READ DATA FROM ECU” button. This will pull the map from the AIC, to your PC so you can start tuning. ( Or inversely, you can load a map from a computer and save it to the AIC by clicking WRITE DATA TO ECU.) (mine is not highlighted because I am not currently connected to my truck)

It is recommended that you save a copy of the map as a backup in a safe place before doing any editing. This way you can get back to where you started if necessary.


Output Settings
as you can see, the only value that should be changed is the overage pressure. i set mine from factory "3" down to "2". what that does it makes the 7th injector turn on 1 psi sooner for more fuel spray at lower RPM. you can keep yours at 3, i personally needed a touch more fuel sooner due to my smaller 2.2 pulley starting to give boost faster.



Becoming Familiar with the Tuning Maps A & B of the R4 Software

19048006793_14ac3c2f67.jpg



This is a full screen shot of the tuning maps A and B we will be working with.


As you are already familiar with in the upper left hand corner, the Read and Write data to ECU of the AIC (mine is not highlighted because I am not currently connected to my truck) the other buttons along the top are helpful with moving, and editing values in each cell.

In the upper right of this page you can toggle between MAP A and MAP B. Above we mentioned that with the metal case of the AIC controller; Map A: Controls Timing Calibration and Map B: Controls Injector control.

The lower bar graph (empty now) shows levels of injector duty cycle and RPM.

Duty Cycle, It is important to understand how this injector system works. (MAP B only, remember this map controls the 7th injector). A value placed in a cell corresponds to how many milli seconds that injector is spraying fuel. In the upper left hand corner we see a 0%, that will change corresponding to the values in the highlighted. As the value increased, the % will increase. Basically the duty cycle is the % flow the injector can withstand. As for our application 50% duty cycle is flowing at 100% max.
 
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Tuning: What are we actually changing?


Lets talk about Timing Map A. (taken right from U-Tune)
When adjusting values, My ultra gauge shows my timing advanced value. from what i have noticed is that i have not needed to change any setting on MAP A because my setting are staying right around 20 deg advanced.

The stock system is dynamic and it is constantly adjusting the ignition timing to keep it as far advanced as possible and keep it right at the knock threshold. This gives you the best performance and the best fuel economy.

The knock threshold is the point where there will start to be some spark knock. The engines knock sensors pick up spark knock and when the ECU sees that spark knock is starting to occur it will reduce the ignition timing slightly. Then after a programmed period of time will start advancing the timing again until it sees knock and the process repeats, many times a second. Just remember the ignition timing is dynamic. This means it is constantly self-adjusting and the ECU keeps the timing right at the knock threshold.

Now lets talk about some things that affect the knock threshold. In our test
engine the ignition timing will usually be about 20 degrees advance at Wide Open Throttle (WOT) and redline. Variables that affect the knock threshold are; octane level of fuel, the fuel mixture, induction air temperatures, engine temperatures, compression ratio and so on. Now we stuff in 6 PSI of boost in this same engine with a roots style supercharger that builds boost as the engine RPMs increase. The ECU is now reporting that the ignition has dropped to 14 degrees of advance with a reduction of 6 degrees. With forced induction installed on our test engine pushing in 6 PSI the cylinder pressure has increased and that has made the cylinder charge more prone to knock. This causes the knock threshold to be much lower then on the stock engine. The ECU is still doing its dynamic ignition timing adjustments, and has self adjusted the ignition timing down to the new knock threshold.

You might get the impression that the ECU can handle the ignition timing all by its self with a forced induction conversion. It might, but if it cannot, it may lead to an engine failure. The problem is that the stock ECUs are not programmed to run properly with a forced induction conversion and was not intended to do so. Because of this, there is usually a very limited amount of adjustment range that the ECU has to adjust the ignition timing. When that range is used up, it cannot retard the timing any more, and if you require more adjustment then the ECU can work with, problems can result in engine failure. When tuning the ignition timing. your goal is to restore the ECUs internal adjustment range so it will have sufficient control authority to prevent boost induced spark knock. Remember in our stock test engine it was 20 degrees advance at WOT and full RPM? Then we boosted it with 6 PSI and it dropped to 14 degrees. (no direct correlation with boost pressures, 20-6=14) We have used up 6 degrees of its internal retard range. What if it only has 7 degrees available and you go boosting on a hot day? You can easily use up what is left and drive down the road knocking and pinging and destroying your engine. Our goal in tuning the ignition system is to restore the ECUs full internal adjustment range so you will have a sufficient safety margin. We call this the safety window.
You do not want to have all ZEROs past the point of max boost just incase
something goes wrong and you have a boost spike, you will not have enough retard needed. Populate the rest of the boost section of the table using the same concept all the way to the end of the map. Write that new map to the
Performance Calibration Unit.



Lets talk about Injector controller MAP B

This Map is mainly what people are talking about when they mention AFR.

Map B controls the time (in milliseconds) that the 7th injector is spraying fuel. By adjusting the time duration at which it sprays and depending on what RPM and Boost pressure, we are able to change the effective AFR numbers.

Adjusting values on the map

Its easiest to have a way to record the screen on your computer as you make a couple pulls, and some way to record the AFR numbers as well corresponding to the cell values.

Within MAP B we will click on a value cell that we want to change. Then change the number only by a few .1 increments, it does not take much to change the AFR. Proceed to make the necessary changes to the map corresponding to your AFR values, RPM and PSI.

Full Throttle Adjusting (OPEN LOOP)

EXAMPLE-so say at full boost my AFR is reading 12.6 and I would like to be in the 11.5 range. We need to increase the number in the cell value to change the AFR. The current number is 1.5 and changing it to 1.8 might get us there, to check our changes we would need to turn the car off, load the new map with this change and make another pull to see what value we are now at. Repeating this process multiple times until you reach the AFR closest to 11.5-12.0 at WOT

once you have made the adjustments you need to load the newly adjusted map onto the AIC controller.
1. Turn off the car (but the ignition to the ON position to give power to the AIC)
2. In the upper left corner click WRITE DATA TO ECU to load the map.
3. Click yes write data to AIC (it says something like that) the map will load after a few moments it will finish.
once the screen disappears, your newly adjusted map has been loaded onto the AIC. Make another pull and view the changes. If you are seeing values from your gauges that are not normal or you experience lag from the engine, continue by making proper adjustments to map A or B.

When you are satisfied with your AFR numbers, Save the new map (be sure to use SAVE AS) and name it by something you can remember.

Part Throttle Adjustment (CLOSED LOOP)

Closed loop- As the vehicle is running, the ECU is reading values from all sorts of sensors and making adjustments as needed. This is great for efficiency and smoothness. The downside to closed loop is ECU freaks out when values are outside of its tolerated range. As an example; The computer wants 5-7 and your giving it 3. It will make adjustment to get back into the 5-7 range.

Only certain year vehicles are able to make part throttle adjustments to the AFR. (96-98)

A big problem with our vehicles is the lean condition at high gear low RPM. this is when Ping is most common in closed loop. To fix this, we need to turn the injector on sooner to reduce Ping.

(Ping or Spark Knock, - The fuel-air charge is meant to be ignited by the spark plug only, and at a precise point in the piston's stroke. Knock occurs when the peak of the combustion process no longer occurs at the optimum moment for the four-stroke cycle. )


This Concludes the basis of tuning URD AIC controller. If Anyone has any questions, please feel free to comment, share maps and discuss problem areas.
 
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What Does Your Maps Look Like?

This post i would like to collect screen shots of other members maps, Please share any additional upgrades on your truck, the elevation you run and any areas you would like to change ( rpm vs boost pressure)

URD Stock loaded map that should be on your AIC to begin with.
Map A

Map B
 
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Sweet, just bought a used 4th gen supercharger and 7th injector. The info on the supercharger thread gets more confusing by the day it seems. Looking forward to this.
 
MTD is also doing the same thing but with different components in order to achieve lower Air Fuel Ratios (AFR) under heavy boost applications.

Not quite... I am doing it for 00+ guys who want to tune part throttle. I may do big power, but it's not the goal of the porject. Nice job though on making a thread about tuning the URD it's about damn time someone took it on. GL :biggrin2:
 
Thanks, shoots - Gonna bookmark for future use. Thinking I might go to the 2.2 pulley later on. Always appreciate your knowledge and help. My URD stuff is working fantastic and installed the JBA exhaust yesterday. That definitely gave me a slight boost. Only mildly obnoxious sound wise. Nice sub thread, though. Cheers -
Andy
 
Will this process also work on my 98 5speed 4x4 or is it different. Anyone know of a good afr guage to buy?
 
Will this process also work on my 98 5speed 4x4 or is it different. Anyone know of a good afr guage to buy?

yes it will work.

for the AFR gauge look at the supercharger thread. Ive got the inovations motorsports gauge model MTX-L digital Air/Fuel ratio Gauge
 
Definitely subscribing to this thread. I have a 1st gen supercharger on mine and my motor dropped a valve this morning. Trying to figure my options but once it's back running again, I'm gonna get the URD kit.
 
Will this process also work on my 98 5speed 4x4 or is it different. Anyone know of a good afr guage to buy?

Just to make sure when you go buying dont get an "AFR guage". Get a Wideband O2 kit with guage. AFR guage just connects to stock o2 sensor and gives you blinking lights that dont help with anything. Im sure you know this but some others might not and go get the wrong thing.
 
Will this process also work on my 98 5speed 4x4 or is it different. Anyone know of a good afr guage to buy?

I have a manual 3.4 and the entire process is simple. The AFR gauge set up I'm eyeing is Uego 30-4900 I think it is. It's a combo boost/AFR gauge plus tons of other things if you wanna get real fancy. Like $300 but seems to be a pretty good one. Plus all inclusive in a single gauge for constant monitoring. I haven't purchased it yet but to be 100% able to tune with complete certainty an AFR is a must. I have done simple tunes to mine to alleviate pinging but that's really it until I get the AFR set up. The basic map does make a difference but there's always room for improvement.
 
I have a manual 3.4 and the entire process is simple. The AFR gauge set up I'm eyeing is Uego 30-4900 I think it is. It's a combo boost/AFR gauge plus tons of other things if you wanna get real fancy. Like $300 but seems to be a pretty good one. Plus all inclusive in a single gauge for constant monitoring. I haven't purchased it yet but to be 100% able to tune with complete certainty an AFR is a must. I have done simple tunes to mine to alleviate pinging but that's really it until I get the AFR set up. The basic map does make a difference but there's always room for improvement.

That wbo2 kit looks pretty sweet. I hated the older UEGO because it would not log with a lot of EMS cleanly. This one comes with boost and its own loggin. Good stuff.
 

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