URGENT: Stripped Torque Converter bolt thread!

thecole1098

New member
I got myself into a pretty big pickle here...

I was doing my rear main seal on my rig and was putting everything back together and started to torque the bolt that holds the TC to the flexplate and it never got tight! It just got snug but then would loosen up. It did feel weird going in though. Only one bolt is stripped, the other 5 are fine.

I need advice on what to do as I need to finish this tomorrow and I really don't want to get a new TC. Once I get the threads repaired, I plan on taking out all bolts and putting locktite on them then torquing to spec.

So should I retap the hole to a larger size or try a helicoil? All advice is appreciated.
 
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I have had better luck with retapping, though one has to remember how old the material is. The slower the better with a good cutting fluid. I take it the TC is original.
 
I had a time-sert installed in a drain plug hole before. It worked well but that is the only suggestion I can offer.

++ TIME-SERT Official Threaded inserts for stripped threads, blown out sparkplugs,

Looks promising, but I wonder if I could get one tomorrow.

I have had better luck with retapping, though one has to remember how old the material is. The slower the better with a good cutting fluid. I take it the TC is original.

Can't agree more with using good fluid. The TC is about 5 years old as the PO had the tranny rebuilt due to I'm assuming what was a pink milkshake.

Is the bolt stripped or are the threads on the TC stripped?

The threads for the TC. In fact I can't even get the bolt out of the TC now, it just spins. I'm gonna have to put pressure on it somehow to get it to spin out.
 
The threads for the TC. In fact I can't even get the bolt out of the TC now, it just spins. I'm gonna have to put pressure on it somehow to get it to spin out.

Maybe you'll get lucky and it's the bolt threads that stripped. Get that bolt out and have a good look. Try taking the correct size tap first and chasing the existing threads. If that doesn't work then drill and tap it.
 
Ah, so some wet behind the ears rebuilder with an impact went full King Kong on it, not bothering to check the torque specs. Beautiful.
 
Ah, so some wet behind the ears rebuilder with an impact went full King Kong on it, not bothering to check the torque specs. Beautiful.

No, trust me, I couldn’t fit an impact in there if I wanted to thanks to the diff in the way lol. I actually WAS using an torque wrench thinking I was being proactive when in fact I was set at the wrong value because someone on the internet told me wrong... found at not too long ago on TIS that the value is only 30 ft lbs.
 
If it were me? I’d tell myself 5 out of 6 ain’t bad and put it back together. Lol.

To be honest, I was concerning doing this but I knew it isn’t the “correct” thing to do and most people would just say do it right while you have it all apart. But I am on s time crunch here.

Tell me if I’m crazy here, but what if I got some strands of wire from a wire wheel and stuck them in the hole perpendicular to the threads then put locktite on the bolt and as it’s going in it would use the wire I put in there as new threads?
 
Try to use a tool (like a door panel tab remover or pry bar with a V-groover at the end) to pull back the bolt while turning it to come off the thread. I believe the bolt thread is softer compared to the thread on the TC.
 
No, trust me, I couldn’t fit an impact in there if I wanted to thanks to the diff in the way lol. I actually WAS using an torque wrench thinking I was being proactive when in fact I was set at the wrong value because someone on the internet told me wrong... found at not too long ago on TIS that the value is only 30 ft lbs.

After I typed this I was thinking no way someone could fit an impact in there.

I have seen someone use valve lapping compound before to get a bolt to sit in rather destroyed threads. But even for them it wasn't a permanent fix. For small torque values even some Right Stuff will work for non load applications.

Torque values are critical. Friend's father went to change out rear bearings on his dually, free floating Dana 60. Very small torque amount of 22ft/lb, then line up the key to hold the lock nut. Well someone must have thought 122ft/lbs, bearings ate a groove into the axle before exploding a week later. Being a one piece axle, it isn't a cheap replacement.
 
Well, I couldn’t get the bolt to come out so I just tacked FIPG all around the bolt to the flexplate. It was tighter than hand tight (barely) so I’m confident it won’t back out. I double checked all the others to make sure they were tight and they are. Not ideal but I didn’t have too many options
 

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