V8 4runner airpump replacement option

[inscarguy]

I just wanted to let everyone know if you all didn't know already.

Instead of buying a OEM Toyota airpump or a questionable aftermarket one you can buy a brand new A.C. DELCO 215-414 for 135.00.its the exact same pump except for the plug and that just unclips from the motor. Same wiring, ports etc. Swap the oem plug over. Quite a few GM vehicles used this same pump.

I just did the pump, replaced the starter while I was in there with a new unit. All in for 635.00 incl. Starter and pump and labor.(some of that includes labor for new rad hoses and thermostat), i supplied all the parts.

Just an option......

 

[DZNUTS]

Great tip!!! What starter did you go with? I’ve been contemplating replacing mine before it starts to go bad (192,xxx miles).


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[inscarguy]

I went with a TYC. It was the only one I could find that was completely new. New case, guts, everything. Got it on Amazon for 107.00.

There are 2 starters for our 4runners. A 1.4KW and a 2.0kw. The 2.0kw is for ones in winter climates. I used the 2.0 and it cranks much faster and easier. Not sure what one I had but its much better than the original one.

 

[trd_v8_sport]

how did you get around the airpump tubes for the starter? a few guys on here may be interested in some tips on that, myself included. im at a little over 196k so i know its only a matter of time

 

[inscarguy]

Once the intake is off its pretty simple. To access the starter bolts the rear cooling rail that joins the cylinder heads has to come off. The two valves are attached to it. You have to disconnect the the two lines coming of the exhaust manifold into the valves. Once those are disconnected unbolt the cooling rail. The starter bolts are accessible from there. The valves can stay attached to the cooling rail.

It would have been a better design if the bolts went the opposite way from the valley towards the firewall. It would have eliminated alot of unnecessary labor. The gaskets for the cooling rail are only available from toyota. You can get them aftermarket but only in a 300.00 head set. They are 10.00 each and you will need 2. While it was apart I checked the diverter valve and it was in good shape and clear of any pump debris.

If anyone wants to do this repair I have all the part numbers and parts needed to complete this. If you are mechanically inclined this whole job will only cost about 290.00 -300.00.

I went with parts and suppliers that had good warranties and comparable prices. If that does not concern you then you could save even more, even more if you left out the starter.

My opinion I would rather go the direction I did with replacing the secondary air pump then using any of the bypass kits. Killed two birds with one stone and everything functions the way its supposed to.

 

[trd_v8_sport]

Once the intake is off its pretty simple. To access the starter bolts the rear cooling rail that joins the cylinder heads has to come off. The two valves are attached to it. You have to disconnect the the two lines coming of the exhaust manifold into the valves. Once those are disconnected unbolt the cooling rail. The starter bolts are accessible from there. The valves can stay attached to the cooling rail.

It would have been a better design if the bolts went the opposite way from the valley towards the firewall. It would have eliminated alot of unnecessary labor. The gaskets for the cooling rail are only available from toyota. You can get them aftermarket but only in a 300.00 head set. They are 10.00 each and you will need 2. While it was apart I checked the diverter valve and it was in good shape and clear of any pump debris.

If anyone wants to do this repair I have all the part numbers and parts needed to complete this. If you are mechanically inclined this whole job will only cost about 290.00 -300.00.

I went with parts and suppliers that had good warranties and comparable prices. If that does not concern you then you could save even more, even more if you left out the starter.

My opinion I would rather go the direction I did with replacing the secondary air pump then using any of the bypass kits. Killed two birds with one stone and everything functions the way its supposed to.

ah. see thats what i thought id have to do....was hoping not too. i did my airpump last year and seeing how the starter was covered ive been dreading it. thanks!

 

[ZiaMan]

Once the intake is off its pretty simple. To access the starter bolts the rear cooling rail that joins the cylinder heads has to come off. The two valves are attached to it. You have to disconnect the the two lines coming of the exhaust manifold into the valves. Once those are disconnected unbolt the cooling rail. The starter bolts are accessible from there. The valves can stay attached to the cooling rail.

It would have been a better design if the bolts went the opposite way from the valley towards the firewall. It would have eliminated alot of unnecessary labor. The gaskets for the cooling rail are only available from toyota. You can get them aftermarket but only in a 300.00 head set. They are 10.00 each and you will need 2. While it was apart I checked the diverter valve and it was in good shape and clear of any pump debris.

If anyone wants to do this repair I have all the part numbers and parts needed to complete this. If you are mechanically inclined this whole job will only cost about 290.00 -300.00.

I went with parts and suppliers that had good warranties and comparable prices. If that does not concern you then you could save even more, even more if you left out the starter.

My opinion I would rather go the direction I did with replacing the secondary air pump then using any of the bypass kits. Killed two birds with one stone and everything functions the way its supposed to.

Can you post your part list and part numbers please?

 

[4acorns]

Replaced pump and related components

I am still getting a p2445 after trying an aftermarket and oe air pump. Any help would be appreciated.