V8 conversion

Question, will you pass smog?

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Everything you have done looks great! One question though...

Making my spacers for the fairlead mount.

IMAG0080_zps73c50d28.jpg~original



How will the Fairlead spacers handle a load on the winch line at an angle? It looks to me like they would fold over. I know ideally you pull from straight ahead, but in wheeling things rarly are ideal...
 
The spacers I used was cut from 1/4" thick 7/8" diameter aluminum tubing.

It is light weight but very strong.

IMAG0087_zpsee24a4b7.jpg~original


I have very little money tied up in this winch set up.

I won the winch at a Toyota meet last year.

I bought the winch plate mount from BudBuilt for $60.
The winch came with Stainless Cable and roller fairlead.

I could have stopped there but i didn't want to have another 40 pounds hanging on the front end of my 4runner. So bought a 10k Synthetic winch rope and aluminum fairlead from 4wheel parts fro $250. Ouch. :cry:

I can stand on the fairlead and it doesn't budge.

Bonus - The winch came with a wireless remote control.

IMAG0086_zpsec5ea350.jpg~original


I was playing with it yesterday (had to buy a battery for it - another $5) and really tested it out.

There is big flaw with the remote. When you push the in button. It is not instantly off. It runs for a second or two.

So the big test. I hooked the winch to a recovery hook on the 4runner to keep it out of they way, used the remote to remove the slack and it did just that but it kept going. The winch applied its 9,000 lbs of pull on it and then the remote timed out. So yes, The fairlead extension can handle the load of an angular pull.
 
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I would think there is a market for that winch plate you made, that is really slick.

I would buy one if I still had a 3rd gen.
 
Lol I've had a ARB bumper for like 3 years now and I still don't have a winch. You get a wild hair and put a winch behind a stock bumper.... Way to make me look lazy.

Oh yea, nice job :thumb3:
 
I agree with Yotaoffroad27. You'd be doing yourself a favor if you did some major bracing with the fairlead sticking out that far. While it looks good standing on it, try jacking on it.

Use the same idea in steel with reinforcement gussets on all 4 sides of each. The bumper cover is done if that thing folds.

I love the idea of that winch location BTW :hatsoff: Nice work so far!
44212d1305006163-anyone-have-irbis-offroad-front-bumper-irbis-bumper.jpg
 
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I agree with Yotaoffroad27. You'd be doing yourself a favor if you did some major bracing with the fairlead sticking out that far. While it looks good standing on it, try jacking on it.

Use the same idea in steel with reinforcement gussets on all 4 sides of each. The bumper cover is done if that thing folds.

I love the idea of that winch location BTW :hatsoff: Nice work so far!
44212d1305006163-anyone-have-irbis-offroad-front-bumper-irbis-bumper.jpg

I'm not trying to jump in on beating the dead horse here but, your winch is rated at 9,000lbs on the last layer or winch rope, not the first, so there really wasn't 9,000lbs on it. The entire setup looks great, but I would error on the side of caution and re-enforce that fairlead.

Like sportcarfan said above, if you can jack it up on the fairlead I will stand corrected.
 
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I tried to jack it up and the truck was lifting up but the fairlead was starting to bow in middle.

The fairlead doesn't seam to handle the weight. It would break first before jacking the truck off the ground, not the mounts.

My conclusion. I will have to do some real world winch winching to see what it really does. There is some physics going on here. Example : The stop light strung across the highway. It puts more weight on the cable when it is further from the light pole. It puts less strain on it as you move it closer to the light pole.

I will test it and make a vdo.

In reality - Extreme side angle pulls, will have strength just because of the mounts. I can't see an extreme up or down pull (climbing a tree) but we'll see.

I'll test it this weekend. If there is the least bit of give where it is going to fold over, I will re-engineer an all steel extension.
 
I tried to jack it up and the truck was lifting up but the fairlead was starting to bow in middle.

The fairlead doesn't seam to handle the weight. It would break first before jacking the truck off the ground, not the mounts.

My conclusion. I will have to do some real world winch winching to see what it really does. There is some physics going on here. Example : The stop light strung across the highway. It puts more weight on the cable when it is further from the light pole. It puts less strain on it as you move it closer to the light pole.

I will test it and make a vdo.

In reality - Extreme side angle pulls, will have strength just because of the mounts. I can't see an extreme up or down pull (climbing a tree) but we'll see.

I'll test it this weekend. If there is the least bit of give where it is going to fold over, I will re-engineer an all steel extension.


The fairlead is not meant support any weight by its self. It only purpose is to take the sharp corner away from the winch line that the bracket creates. Also think about where you will be using the winch. When you break out the winch, you are hung up on something or stuck in the mud. So not only does your winch (and brackets) have to pull the weight of the vehicle, but its also pulling against the mud, or rock, or stump, or what ever it is that you are hung on. With your fairlead spaced so far out the line now has more leverage on the bolts holding it to the mount.

I think your over all design looks great, it just might need some reinforcement.:hat:
 
toeyoeda said:
Hi Singtoe,

I'm also doing a 2UZ swap, but my question is about the transmission mount you fabbed for you 4runner. Like you said, since the V8 engine is longer, it'll push the transmission back from stock configuration. You said it was about 4"? Do you have any pictures/diagrams on how fabricated you mount? I'm trying to get ideas on what I have to do to my mount. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you for documenting what you did for your swap! It has help me a lot!

toeyoeda

I took another crossmember and welded it parallel to the existing cross member. It was spaced out perfectly, had all the right holes in it and was the same gauge metal as the original member.

2012-07-08_13-58-39_599.jpg~original


I turned my original crossmember upside down to give me clearance between the member and transmission pan.

2012-07-08_13-58-49_76.jpg~original
 
I took another crossmember and welded it parallel to the existing cross member. It was spaced out perfectly, had all the right holes in it and was the same gauge metal as the original member.

2012-07-08_13-58-39_599.jpg~original


I turned my original crossmember upside down to give me clearance between the member and transmission pan.

2012-07-08_13-58-49_76.jpg~original

Ah, I see what you did. I like this. Yeah, before I saw your pics, I was going to make another crossmember out of steel plating and drill holes in my frame to bolt it up to, and then bolt my transmission mount to the plate. I really didn't want to mess with my frame in any way. I like how your way doesnt alter the frame in any way.

Thank you for your help! Much appreciated!
 
A little update.

As everyone who has read this thread knows, or I think they know, I kept all the creature comforts of the AWD system.

I kept the Limited's Transfer case ECU and grafted it to the Sequoia's Transfer case.

Wicked cool set up. Push button AWD, Push button 4 wheel drive and manual Hi Neutral Lo stick.

Anywho, The system worked great when I did my conversion. But last winter, I wanted to use the AWD and the dreaded blinking 4 tires showed up. I was bummed out. Now the 4x4 button worked but the AWD caused the blinking light.




I was thinking what the hell could it be... I have 20 or so connections that tie the sequoia Transfer case to the Limited'd ecu and figured one of them went south. So just for shits and giggles, I removed the transfercase actuator and took a peak inside.

Apparently, Last summer, when I took the 4runner swimming, I got water through the breather into the actuator. It had corroded one of the electrical contacts in the actuator.


Not my picture but was the same thing.
transfer_cover.jpg~original


A little steel wool and some grease and my AWD - 4x4 is working perfectly again. Word of advice. Extend all of your breathers or don't go through deep water.
 


Ol'Blue said:
So I was looking at one of the pictures you have up. You have the Elocker and a Center Diff Lock. Spill it, how dose this work and how did you do it, it is Bad Ass? Is it a Multil Mode Transfer case out of a 01-02? How dose it wheel like this, better, same or amazing?

Blue

The original transfer case was a j shift with awd push button. Pull the transfer stick pack and it locked the center diff.

I did not use a Multi Mode transfer case out of a 01-02, I used the Sequoia transfer case because of the stick location. It was more forward than the 4runner's so when I pushed the engine back, it put the transfer case stick in the correct spot in the transmission tunnel.


4runner transfer case



Sequoia Transfer case



The weird thing is that the Sequoia has no option of locking the center diff. The ECU will lock it only when the shifter is in 4lo and the gear shifter in 2nd.


So with the use of the 4runner's 4x4 ECU and a center diff lock switch, I am able to use the Sequoia's transfer case in AWD and Center diff locked at the push of a button.


I could have used a tundras transfer case as they are totally electric, no stick but i did not have one to use, plus I already had a sequoia transfer case in my possession.
 
While the hidden winch is an awesome idea, I would have to concur with those doubting the longevity of the extended fairlead. Any time you extend something like that that was intended to be flush-mounted to a solid plate, you completely change the forces on that fairlead AND mounting plate. Like a lift-block suspension lift, you have focused the load on a point, instead of spreading it over the whole plate. Plus, just like a scaffold without triangulated braces, you also have no bracing for anything other than a perfectly straight pull--any up or down angle will twist your fairlead, possibly leading to it snapping off. One last thing--as you mentioned about the winch not stopping right away, if that happens with an unsupported fairlead, you'll bend it like a pretzel. Just food for thought. Overall, though, I totally applaud your work on the engine swap and truck in general--great stuff!
 

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