V8 Highway RPMs?
- Thread starter kylebacc
- Start date
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Can't narrow it down any more than that by chance? That's a pretty big range lol
Thanks for you input. If anyone else can contribute their 70MPH engine speed, that would be helpful as well!
:cheers:
Ruffian
New member
Thanks to everyone who posted up.
Because I'm trying to work out where mine is compared to stock. I have stock gears with 35's and although I feel like I don't really need new gears, I'm wondering if new gears will help my MPGs in the city. But I don't want to be running like 3000-4000 RPMs at 80MPH because I do a lot of highway driving at that speed (normal for FL). Thanks again guys!
Because I'm trying to work out where mine is compared to stock. I have stock gears with 35's and although I feel like I don't really need new gears, I'm wondering if new gears will help my MPGs in the city. But I don't want to be running like 3000-4000 RPMs at 80MPH because I do a lot of highway driving at that speed (normal for FL). Thanks again guys!
charlier180
New member
Bone Stock 4Runner, 70 mph, 2000 rpm on the nose.
CJ3Flyr
Super Moderator
If your torque converter is staying locked most of the time you probably don't need gears. You should be running 2k (+ or-) at a corrected 80mph. Your speedo/tach should read exactly as the reported values unless you put a speedo healer in...
IMHO, with your torque monster setup you are one of the very few who can swing 35's on stock gears. 4.56's would most likely help lower speed mpg. I'm not sure wht it'd do for you highway mpg.
IIRC most would go to 4.56's to restore close to stock rpm vs speed with 35's. Most need the 4.56's to have decent acceleration, mpg and not have to listen to constant shifting/torque-converter lock/unlock. Another plus for you is Florida, your biggest hills and highest elevations involve bridges
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My TC stays locked at 80. You you mean at an un-corrected 80? I mean, if I have the 35's, no speedo healer, and stock gears....wouldn't I be running lower RPMs at a corrected (GPS) 80?
True, the torque is there, which is why gears have never been considered before now. I was thinking if 4.56's brought the highway MPGs down, then maybe 4.11's would be a good compromise?
IIRC most would go to 4.56's to restore close to stock rpm vs speed with 35's. Most need the 4.56's to have decent acceleration, mpg and not have to listen to constant shifting/torque-converter lock/unlock. Another plus for you is Florida, your biggest hills and highest elevations involve bridges
If 4.56's make it as close to stock as possible, then my highway MPGs shouldn't be negatively affected, correct? And yes, living in FL helps!
03_4x4Runner
Senior Member
The bigger tires will use more gas because they are much heavier than a stock tire and aggresive treads have more rolling resistance.
Do you mean in general or at a particular ratio? I know that as a general thing. Just to clarify: I meant that it wouldn't have a negative impact as compared to my current setup. Just to clarify my current setup: 35's with stock gears. Thanks guys!
CJ3Flyr
Super Moderator
-stock tires = approx. 680 revolutions per mile. Yours = approx. 598.
-the final drive ratio stock is 2.67 (.716x3.73)
-The tires cause about a 13% drop in rpm
-The 4.56 would give you a few more rpm than stock w/stock tires and the 4.1 would give you a few less. Something in the 4.3 range would be just about right. Most look for the same or few more rpm without making it scream. The few extra rpm helps to ensure there's plenty of power on tap to help overcome the extra drag/rolling resistance/wind drag from a big tired, lifted vehicle. Most don't have the power you do. Given your torque I'd be looking for 4.30's, if there weren't any then I might opt for the 4.10's. If you ever downsized tires the vehicle would still work ok w/4.10's but not so good w/4.56 IMHO. You're not likely to go bigger than 35 are you? If so than 4.56 is the answer.
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