V8 spark plug change report

Atlanta_man

New member
104,000 miles

Got it done today with NGK (3764) BKR6EIX-11 Iridium IX's (the mid-price of the three NGK Iridium part numbers that are specified for the 2005 4.7 V8, $7/each <well one of the three was platinum only and the high end was combo Irid/Plat>). Originals were all Denso's.

None of the old plugs was very tight, all came out easy. Way too easy in fact. Only one had a bit of a dry squeak during a couple the unscrew turns on the way out.

Looks like the spark plug ads that tout the special metal coating on the threads to prevent problems in alloy heads is true.

All the plugs looked good on the business end, around a mm or two of gap wear, and some slightly discolored but clean internal insulators.

One plug had quite a bit of hard black deposit on the outside body above the threads and its coil's plug boot had some of the same deposits on it. Looked like black plastic, and it would not clean off the plug short of a hammer and chisel.

The boot cleaned up OK with some alcohol but the boot itself is a nice brown color rather than that factory blue gray of the 7 others. Clearly some amount of blow by has been going on at this plug for a long time due to the lack of sufficient tightening at the factory.

The only lesson learned from the plug change itself was to be sure to snap the 4 conductor connector on coil pack before screwing it down. Otherwise it tries to get between the coil module and the engine. Good light would be helpful too.
 
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Was it pretty easy to do or hard to get to all the spark plugs? I'm at 85k and looking to do this.
 
How much torque did you put on the plugs? I feel I saw 13 ft lbs on my 07 V6 2WD T4R which might be the lightest I have seen. But plenty threads might be the rational?? jow
 
Was it pretty easy to do or hard to get to all the spark plugs? I'm at 85k and looking to do this.

Easy Easy
be sure to tape the plug socket to the extension
air filter box has to come out (3 easy 12mm bolts)


If you have a V8 wait another 20K miles.
 
How much torque did you put on the plugs? I feel I saw 13 ft lbs on my 07 V6 2WD T4R which might be the lightest I have seen. But plenty threads might be the rational?? jow

Did not torque wrench them going in. I went by feel, tight enough to crush the washer. You can feel it and the effort increase once it compresses.

The originals were not tight enough to squish down their washer.
 
104,000 miles

Looks like the spark plug ads that tout the special metal coating on the threads to prevent problems in alloy heads is true.

I highly recommend anti seize on plugs going into aluminum heads. I worked at Allied Motor Parts/Machine Shop in East Point right out of high school and couldn't tell you the amount of thread repairs we did on aluminum head spark plug holes. On, and off the car. The threads like to come out with the plug. I used a portion of one of those little over priced $.99 packets they sell at checkout in the parts stores.
 
I used a tiny bit of copper based, O2 sensor safe, anti-sieze on my install.
Just being extra careful. A little dielectric grease on the boots too
 
Forgot abt the anti-seize

I changed my spark plugs yesterday & forgot to put the anti-seize. Do you think I should take out the spark plugs, put some anti seize, and then put them back in? Or is it ok without the anti seize?

If it's important, should I do it immediately before going on long drives?

Also I torqued to about 15 ft-lbs. Does that sound about right?

Thanks for your help!
 
I deffinetly don't think it would hurt. I wouldn't need to put anti seize on before you drive it, just do it within the next month or so.
 
I changed my spark plugs yesterday & forgot to put the anti-seize. Do you think I should take out the spark plugs, put some anti seize, and then put them back in? Or is it ok without the anti seize?

If it's important, should I do it immediately before going on long drives?

Also I torqued to about 15 ft-lbs. Does that sound about right?

Thanks for your help!

The instructions from NGK and Denso both state to install dry, (no anti-seize).

They are installed dry from the factory. I wouldn't worry about it, you did it right. If you do use anti-seize, use a very small amount.
 
bolt part #

anyone know the part # for bolts holding in the spark plug boot? I rounded the head on one and will need to replace it.
 
anyone know the part # for bolts holding in the spark plug boot? I rounded the head on one and will need to replace it.

I don't think there's anything special about those bolts - it's not like they're holding the head on or anything. I'd be inclined to just visit the local hardware store and pick up a matching bolt from the metric bolt section.
 

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