valve clearances

[gnarlynick2072]

Hi guys,

Checked my valve clearances last night and it looked pretty good, though had a couple quick questions.

The valve clearances stated should be:

intake: 0.006 - 0.009
exhaust: 0.011 - 0.014

Almost all of my exhaust valves were 0.013/0.014 except for one that was 0.015.

Likewise, almost all of my intake valves were 0.006/0.007 except for one that was 0.005.

My question is if it is better for valves should be on the higher end or lower end of the range. I have read that you want the exhaust valves to be on the higher end (ie 0.014 is preferable) but nothing about the intake side.

If this is the case, should I be changing all my intakes to 0.009? Or just the one guy from 0.005 to 0.006/0.007?

Time isn't an issue, I've got another vehicle and I want the valves to be at the MOST optimal clearances possible.

Thoughts?

 

[Kryptoroxx]

If they're within spec.....they're within spec. Unless you have a completely custom tuned engine that requires an optimal number then you are just fine.

Personally I wouldn't worry about anything except the one intake valve. Exhaust valves over time will wear so the tolerance tightens. Intake valves take a long long time to do anything. Bumping up your intake valve into spec will bring your engine up to snuff.

 

[ajonesnv]

Your clearances are fine. Even the ones that are 0.001 out. You would be taking on a job that quite literally would produce you no noticeable results or any at all.

In theory more space, while still in spec is better for both sides, so that the shim is not wearing the cam lobe. But thats why Toyota measured the tolerance specs and you are in those.

Also, Ive used a micometer to measure new shims and even still I would get a 0.001 difference from different parts of the shim, so it is possible that using the clearance tool (which is far more inaccurate) isn't producing accurate results. Just gets you in the ball-park.

I say all this to say, you are in good standing and I would not recommend the time and money in doing the job.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

If they're within spec.....they're within spec. Unless you have a completely custom tuned engine that requires an optimal number then you are just fine.

Personally I wouldn't worry about anything except the one intake valve. Exhaust valves over time will wear so the tolerance tightens. Intake valves take a long long time to do anything. Bumping up your intake valve into spec will bring your engine up to snuff.

That's exactly what I wanted to hear. I knew that exhaust valves have a worse life than intake valves.

What clearance should I move the 0.005 valve to? 0.006 or 0.007?

Also, I have one exhaust valve that is 0.012. Is it smart to move it to 0.014 so that ALL of my exhaust valves are at the highest point (0.013/0.014) so I wouldn't have to worry about that ONE valve tightening up before the rest?

That would mean I'd change a grand total of 2 valve shims.

I want to do this once so I never have to touch them again.

 

[gamefreakgc]

If you want to be safe shoot for the middle. It will give you a bit of room to negotiate either way.

You don't want your intake clearances too tight, however, I'd do 0.008.

Good luck getting those shims out! I'm assuming you already have these. It's pretty much impossible to take them out and not damage your cam lobes without it (even then I scratch the lobes in a few spots).

SIR Tools TOY008 Valve Adjusting Kit for Toyota

 

[gnarlynick2072]

If you want to be safe shoot for the middle. It will give you a bit of room to negotiate either way.

You don't want your intake clearances too tight, however, I'd do 0.008.

Good luck getting those shims out! I'm assuming you already have these. It's pretty much impossible to take them out and not damage your cam lobes without it (even then I scratch the lobes in a few spots).

SIR Tools TOY008 Valve Adjusting Kit for Toyota

sounds good. I'll probably just do the one shim and be done with the whole thing.

I most definitely have the tool! Always prepared.

 

[ajonesnv]

Might be a good idea to just do the job when your timing belt is due. Then you can simply pull the cams and use a magnet to remove the shims.

Unless you are just dealing with the exhaust valve, in that case you can pull the cam with-out having to remove the cam pulley.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Might be a good idea to just do the job when your timing belt is due. Then you can simply pull the cams and use a magnet to remove the shims.

Unless you are just dealing with the exhaust valve, in that case you can pull the cam with-out having to remove the cam pulley.

Sadly, timing belt was done a few months ago.

I'm just glad that realistically just 1 shim needs to be changed. If I manage to figure out how to get them out comfortably, I'll do the 0.012 for PM reasons.



Thanks for the quick advice everyone, I haven't been on this forum much lately, mostly on ih8mud with cruiser stuff. Glad to be diving back into the 3rd gen.

 

[KidVermicious]

^ I did not find those useful when I did the shims on my 3RZ. I had to pull the cams.

 

[ajonesnv]

Useful charts to determine which shim to order.

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These are both found in the FSM, if you don't already have one

 

[gamefreakgc]

^ I did not find those useful when I did the shims on my 3RZ. I had to pull the cams.

It takes a very steady hand and lots of patience. You need to place the lifter tool at a 70-80 degree angle to the camshaft on the shim bucket and make sure it's secure against the cam. Also make sure that the lifter is not restricting the shim's ability to come out. It took me about a half-hour to figure that out but once I got it it went smoother. I replaced 7 shims the last time I did this on my 3VZ-E and it was restricted with all those silly hoses and the EGR components.

Where I went wrong was after I measured the shim I didn't put it back in. It is much easier to situate the lifter tool with the shim in, than with it out. But with only changing one it will be a piece of cake.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

It takes a very steady hand and lots of patience. You need to place the lifter tool at a 70-80 degree angle to the camshaft on the shim bucket and make sure it's secure against the cam. Also make sure that the lifter is not restricting the shim's ability to come out. It took me about a half-hour to figure that out but once I got it it went smoother. I replaced 7 shims the last time I did this on my 3VZ-E and it was restricted with all those silly hoses and the EGR components.

Where I went wrong was after I measured the shim I didn't put it back in. It is much easier to situate the lifter tool with the shim in, than with it out. But with only changing one it will be a piece of cake.

Awesome advice, thanks.

This is a learning experience and I am taking my time on it. Going over every component, replacing half moons/gaskets etc...

I have the FSM which helps a great deal but doesn't have that human experience element to it.



Thanks again everybody!

 

[KidVermicious]

It takes a very steady hand and lots of patience. You need to place the lifter tool at a 70-80 degree angle to the camshaft on the shim bucket and make sure it's secure against the cam. Also make sure that the lifter is not restricting the shim's ability to come out. It took me about a half-hour to figure that out but once I got it it went smoother. I replaced 7 shims the last time I did this on my 3VZ-E and it was restricted with all those silly hoses and the EGR components.

Where I went wrong was after I measured the shim I didn't put it back in. It is much easier to situate the lifter tool with the shim in, than with it out. But with only changing one it will be a piece of cake.

My motor was on the stand, I had super good access. My problem was getting the shims out, they were baked into the cups. There was no way to get them out without pulling the cams, tools or not.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Having never done this myself on a 5VZ I can't speak from first hand experience though I did watch someone adjust valves on a 3rz and like Kid Vermicious, he found pulling the cams made it much easier. Plus he was replacing valve stem seals at the same time.

My friend did have the Schley tools, though I don't think I saw him use them:
http://www.amazon.com/Valve-Adjusti...&qid=1424288396&sr=8-7&keywords=schley+toyota

 

[Kryptoroxx]

I guess I'm the only one who replaced 14 shims without removing the cams on my 3rz. It does take patience, beer, and a lower back massage after you're done. The tool helps but the neodymium magnet helped a lot more lol. It would suck the shims out of the oil suction in the buckets.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

i guess i'm the only one who replaced 14 shims without removing the cams on my 3rz. It does take patience, beer, and a lower back massage after you're done. The tool helps but the neodymium magnet helped a lot more lol. It would suck the shims out of the oil suction in the buckets.

lol!

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Removed the 2 shims and measured them accordingly tonight. Piece of cake! Everyone made it sound so difficult to get the shims out. The tool made it incredibly easy. I would highly suggest a good magnet when removing. I wish I had one for this job.

The hardest part was putting the shims back IN the bucket. What a PITA fest that was.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Glad to hear!

Yeah that was my hardest part too. Easy to get out, hard to get back in. If I had replaced each shim after measuring it would have been twice as easy though.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Glad to hear!

Yeah that was my hardest part too. Easy to get out, hard to get back in. If I had replaced each shim after measuring it would have been twice as easy though.

Exactly, I agree. I was able to replace the first shim I took out, turned crank, took out 2nd shim then spent more than an hour trying to put it back in.

Eventually said screw it and put a shop towel over the bucket so nothing can get in there. Came to the realization that I'd have to take it out anyways!




For those of you buying shims, don't go to the dealer! They charged me $22 EACH and a week out. I have a terrific source for OEM Toyota parts from the UAE and I'm using it to buy the shims. $4.57 each. So I'm buying 4 just in case.

Here's the link to the shims source:

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/toyota/part?catalog=EU&model_code=VZN185L-GKMGKA&group=1302

It's group #13753 on the EPC. They have all the sizes available and quick/cheap shipping.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

So I got my shims yesterday and installed successfully. The new clearances were right where I wanted them.

Fired the truck up, and it drove smoother than I can ever remember. Especially the idle, it was dead on 700 RPM, where before it would hover +/- 50 RPM. Also more power and lower end torque.

A few notes that I found after doing the job:

-ALWAYS replace old shims after measuring. Don't leave the bucket exposed, otherwise you will have to check, re check and re re check that the bucket is clean.
-Re set ECU after the job. This can be done by pulling lead from battery and pushing the brake pedal until the lights turn off. I like to do this as there is usually capacitive power still in the system. I didn't do this when I first drove it after the job, and the idles were jacked (~1000 RPM) which was noticeable since I drive a 5 speed. The computer eventually "learns" but I like it to start from scratch as the motor is technically acting differently.