valve tap? I think
- Thread starter blue_mule
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ovrrdrive
New member
Assuming the tap isn't due to something wearing out that needs replacing, you can try going a little tighter on the valves on your next adjustment.
I put mine at .008 intake and .010 exhaust last time and it was the quietest my engine has even been.
Here's what Ted (engnbldr) had to say on valve lash over at 4x4wire...
"">>>*I have always felt that .008" and .012" was a shade on the loose side. These engines do run noisy, after all the design is mechanical.
By listening closely, one will realize the click sound is at 1/4 of engine rotation, a mechanic's stethescope has demonstrated to me that it is the exhaust side that we hear.
The stock cam profile will accept .008" and .010" and this can help to ease the sound. But if the adjuster screw ends are worn, moving them exposes a different area, and the noise may actually increase at a closer setting.
Plus if worn, it is very easy to get a false reading since the feeler will read the widest point rather than the closest.
Trying to use "drag" as a guideline is very hard to do, these engines only have 60# seat tension in the spring, so a snug drag may actually be zero lash unless one has very good hands.
If the camshaft profile is other than stock, the lash setting may well be different than factory settings due to the lobe shape.
We suggest .007" intake and .009" exhaust on all of our designs for quietest operation, and we have even set the stock cam at that reading with no harm.
But by all means, pull the adjuster screws and check the ends for wear. If it is present, you will never really get the settings accurate....*EB "
"
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...99759&page=3&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=14&fpart=1
I put mine at .008 intake and .010 exhaust last time and it was the quietest my engine has even been.
Here's what Ted (engnbldr) had to say on valve lash over at 4x4wire...
"">>>*I have always felt that .008" and .012" was a shade on the loose side. These engines do run noisy, after all the design is mechanical.
By listening closely, one will realize the click sound is at 1/4 of engine rotation, a mechanic's stethescope has demonstrated to me that it is the exhaust side that we hear.
The stock cam profile will accept .008" and .010" and this can help to ease the sound. But if the adjuster screw ends are worn, moving them exposes a different area, and the noise may actually increase at a closer setting.
Plus if worn, it is very easy to get a false reading since the feeler will read the widest point rather than the closest.
Trying to use "drag" as a guideline is very hard to do, these engines only have 60# seat tension in the spring, so a snug drag may actually be zero lash unless one has very good hands.
If the camshaft profile is other than stock, the lash setting may well be different than factory settings due to the lobe shape.
We suggest .007" intake and .009" exhaust on all of our designs for quietest operation, and we have even set the stock cam at that reading with no harm.
But by all means, pull the adjuster screws and check the ends for wear. If it is present, you will never really get the settings accurate....*EB "
"
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...99759&page=3&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=14&fpart=1
rustyrazor
New member
How long has it been since you replaced the timing chain?
If the tapping noise is most noticable at idle or on startup it could be the timing chain.
It's not likely to be the chain if you hear the tapping at higher RPMs.
Just something to consider.
If the tapping noise is most noticable at idle or on startup it could be the timing chain.
It's not likely to be the chain if you hear the tapping at higher RPMs.
Just something to consider.
I actually started to wonder about the timing chain today. The noise is upon startup until it gets warm. The truck has 186k miles on it and I'm not sure if the timing chain has ever been replaced. I will probably take it in soon to have it looked over and done. What is an approximate cost to have it replaced? Am I correct that if it breaks during opertion it will cause numerous other problems?
Last edited:
ovrrdrive
New member
If it was the timing chain it usually only taps about 6-10 times while the tensioner pumps back up. This is more of a knock then a tap in my opinion and like I said it goes away in a few seconds.
That said, whether this is the tap you're hearing or not, if you have never had it changed you need to do it asap. The 22re is an interference motor and your intake valves will hit the pistons if the chain breaks or even if it jumps time far enough.
My drivers side guide came apart on my rebuilt engine after 8k miles and when it broke it went through the bottom gear which jumped the time, broke the timing cover, and bent all 4 of my intake valves. It was a time consuming and expensive repair.
If it taps for 5 minutes and goes away I'd still suspect the valve train. Start with a valve adjustment and go from there.
And btw, plan on about $800 to get the timing chain replaced.
That said, whether this is the tap you're hearing or not, if you have never had it changed you need to do it asap. The 22re is an interference motor and your intake valves will hit the pistons if the chain breaks or even if it jumps time far enough.
My drivers side guide came apart on my rebuilt engine after 8k miles and when it broke it went through the bottom gear which jumped the time, broke the timing cover, and bent all 4 of my intake valves. It was a time consuming and expensive repair.
If it taps for 5 minutes and goes away I'd still suspect the valve train. Start with a valve adjustment and go from there.
And btw, plan on about $800 to get the timing chain replaced.
