Vibration at 65+ mph

I'd have it checked out a local shop that only does drivelines. They see nothing but drivelines all day long and I'll bet they can fix it. Just another day in the office for those guys.

I used OC Driveline but there is sure to be one closer to you.

Alright all, I am back! Dropped it off this AM at the shop and owner says he took the driveshaft off and sent it to a shop for them to see if it needs a balance. He said he hopes it can be balanced/repaired and that I don't need a new one.

Hoping it can be fixed, at zero cost to me, because this did not start until after Ujoints were replaced! Will update tomorrow.
 
Alright all, I am back! Dropped it off this AM at the shop and owner says he took the driveshaft off and sent it to a shop for them to see if it needs a balance. He said he hopes it can be balanced/repaired and that I don't need a new one.

Hoping it can be fixed, at zero cost to me, because this did not start until after Ujoints were replaced! Will update tomorrow.

Back sooner than expected. Would like to get some advice in the next hour or two since the guy is now waiting on me.

Supposedly the driveshaft is bad, and the rubber piece on the inside is worn I believe and that's what is causing the vibrations. He said the shop cannot fix it and I need a new driveshaft. $432 installed, said he is not charging me labor.

Advice? So sick of this damn thing!
 
Just read all of this B.S and now it's going to cost you $420 in which there was no issue prior to them replacing the U-joints. Tell them to pound sand and fix it at no cost to you since the problem did not exist before. If it was mine have them put it back and take it to another shop and get a second opinion they are not telling you everything and ask which driveline shop they took the DS too. I am just piss off for you man.

Any good driveline shop can build you a new drive shaft or repair your current one, my 3rd gen is near 300k miles and still have the original drive line.
 
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Just read all of this B.S and now it's going to cost you $420 in which there was no issue prior to them replacing the U-joints. Tell them to pound sand and fix it at no cost to you since the problem did not exist before. If it was mine have them put it back and take it to another shop and get a second opinion they are not telling you everything and ask which driveline shop they took the DS too. I am just piss off for you man.

Any good driveline shop can build you a new drive shaft or repair your current one, my 3rd gen is near 300k miles and still have the original drive line.

Ya it's ****ing bullshit. Don't really know what to do. I can live with the vibration, but he said it's just going to do more damage to the car if I don't fix it. It's clear he won't pay for it. I told him 5 times today that there was no issue before new U-Joints.

Edit - He did say that he is not charging me labor, but still, $430. Ouch
 
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Fawk that guy

Just do what I told you and get a second opinion, call and file a complaint with B.A.R with what happen and go from there. If you were with in 50 miles I would go there and check it for you my self and prove that idiot wrong. He wants to do more damaged in your wallet, that's what he meant.
 
Just do what I told you and get a second opinion, call and file a complaint with B.A.R with what happen and go from there. If you were with in 50 miles I would go there and check it for you my self and prove that idiot wrong. He wants to do more damaged in your wallet, that's what he meant.

Thanks. I'm waiting on another shop to give me a quote for a driveshaft. Will call around to some other places too to see what they can do. I'm wary to go off on him because he may be the cheapest in town. Of course I'd rather not give him my $, but if I eventually have to get it fixed I might as well go with the lowest bidder, which may be him.
 
Just my suggestion

Ok hold off on going off on the guy for now, find a driveline shop have another shop remove your current driveshaft and you take it there yourself and get the real reason why your DS needs to be replaced or rebuild and get it in writing on what they find and get a price how much it will cost then shove it down the other guys throat if he is lying. I'm done.
 
Thanks. I'm waiting on another shop to give me a quote for a driveshaft. Will call around to some other places too to see what they can do. I'm wary to go off on him because he may be the cheapest in town. Of course I'd rather not give him my $, but if I eventually have to get it fixed I might as well go with the lowest bidder, which may be him.

Definitely get a few more opinions and within that time maybe others that are more experienced with driveshafts will share some info regarding the rubber piece that shop is talking about. Just want to be careful you don't jump into a rabbit hole of bleeding money to that shop.

...& I agree, probably a good idea to hold off on laying into the guy until you're in the clear, would be like going off on a waiter before your meal is served. Regardless, you'll probably have better communication & outcome if you are stern but respectful and be as objective & factual as possible.
 
Hey can anyone tell me what this inside rubber piece is about? I've not heard or read much about that.

Well I had the new driveshaft ordered. I just spoke with the guy at the drive line shop who looked at the driveshaft and asked he explain this all to me.

He said they did away with the rubber piece because over time (my car is 16 y/o now) all rubber deteriorates. The new driveshaft comes with Ujoints built in.

Because of the rubber piece, supposedly that renders it irreparable. He said oftentimes shops will throw new Ujoints in and immediately after, the vibrating on the highway becomes noticeable because the root of the problem is the rotten rubber inside of the driveshaft.

He said he's seen many shops go through the same thing I have where they will replace the joints then realize the real problem was the shaft. Anyways.... I'll let you all know how the car is after they put the new one in. Should have it back tonight.

Definitely get a few more opinions and within that time maybe others that are more experienced with driveshafts will share some info regarding the rubber piece that shop is talking about. Just want to be careful you don't jump into a rabbit hole of bleeding money to that shop.

...& I agree, probably a good idea to hold off on laying into the guy until you're in the clear, would be like going off on a waiter before your meal is served. Regardless, you'll probably have better communication & outcome if you are stern but respectful and be as objective & factual as possible.

I have called several shops and they all want $450-$550 for the shaft, plus labor. I'm getting it for $430 with no labor, so I guess I just have to pour more salt on my wound(s) and deal. :)
 
The car is back, rides smooth as can be on the highway.

He said some pinion in the rear is going out and will need to be fixed eventually. Probably around $800-900 he thinks. I'm over this thing!

:uzi::uzi::uzi:
 
I have a 2wd and was having the same problem. It was the rubber pieces in the drive shaft. I found a used one and it fixed the problem. :nicethread:
 
BTW, I realize the drive shaft was apparently the culprit, but one reason for vibration can be as simple as a missing wheel weight.

If you need to check your wheel balance, there is a new thread here which shows specifically how to check the static balance at home.
230742d1481749392-advice-requested-those-you-who-have-mounted-tires-balanced-wheels-home-2_balance_tires.jpg
 
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so i started experiencing a rater rough vibration this weekend.

only occurs under "light" throttle....heavy throttle or coasting and it seems to go away

this is around 60+ km/h

other searches have indicated rear u-joint? does this sound about right?
 
I know this is an older thread, but I would be interested to know what "Rubber in the driveshaft" was bad and not replacable? Did you take pics by chance? I know that the double Carden ball some places think is none replaceable, but Neapco makes a replacement. When they say non-replaceable rubber in the shaft I think of a VW Touareg or BMW shaft with a rubber plate instead of a ujoint. Which our shafts do not have.
 
I know this is an older thread, but I would be interested to know what "Rubber in the driveshaft" was bad and not replacable? Did you take pics by chance? I know that the double Carden ball some places think is none replaceable, but Neapco makes a replacement. When they say non-replaceable rubber in the shaft I think of a VW Touareg or BMW shaft with a rubber plate instead of a ujoint. Which our shafts do not have.
ONLY the 2WD has this rubber issue!

The 2WD shaft has an inner and outer sleeve joined by rubber. It looks like a visible step in the diameter of the shaft, with almost rubber visible externally. Also, the factory u-joints on the 2WD are non-greasable and there is no slip-yoke in the shaft - the slip yoke is on the transmission output. There is no double-cardan, just two single u-joints... very different design between the 2WD and 4WD setup.

-Charlie
 
Driveshaft

I had similar issue with my 02, vibration....I chased it for several months, then replaced driveshaft, complete. She is smooth as silk now, no telling how long the shaft was out of balance and had one stiff u-joint. Shaft was quick to install, 4 bolts at rear end.
 
ONLY the 2WD has this rubber issue!

The 2WD shaft has an inner and outer sleeve joined by rubber. It looks like a visible step in the diameter of the shaft, with almost rubber visible externally. Also, the factory u-joints on the 2WD are non-greasable and there is no slip-yoke in the shaft - the slip yoke is on the transmission output. There is no double-cardan, just two single u-joints... very different design between the 2WD and 4WD setup.

-Charlie

Cool beans, I did not know this info. Thank you! Guess I just tend to be skeptical when hearing info from a shop I do not know.
 

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