Vibration Problem

xhimsa12x

New member
Okay guys, I finally got my toytec lift on after waiting about 3 months for the back ordered front springs. Took about 10 hours to get on after running into several issues and having 2 springs compressors break while compressing springs. Everything has been tightened and is secured and I am getting a vibration that wasn't there before only after I get up to about 50 MPH and above. It looked as though the front UCA's were rubbing the inner top of the tires so I bought some G2 1.25 spacers hoping it would take care of the problem but it didn't. Any idea's or similar experiences? The vibration kind of feels like something is rubbing but I have look it over several times carefully and doesn't seem tire is rubbing anywhere. I have 265/75/16's on stock rims.
I still have not had the truck aligned after install which will be done this weekend.
 
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You might be just noticing a stiffer ride? Hmm, I don't want to downplay an actual problem if there is one, so look over your front hubs and for metal that looks bare, like it has been rubbing.
 
Do you think not getting the alignment yet would make that big of a deal?? It def feels steering related. Possibly need to get some bushing to extend the sway bar links?? A friend seems to think the angle of my sway bar from the lift is far too low and I should get some bushings to raise it back to it's proper angle.
 
Do you think not getting the alignment yet would make that big of a deal?? It def feels steering related. Possibly need to get some bushing to extend the sway bar links?? A friend seems to think the angle of my sway bar from the lift is far too low and I should get some bushings to raise it back to it's proper angle.

Suspension lifts require an alignment. A body lift doesn't usually require an alignment, but their both suggested to get an alignment.
Also, since you have lifted it, you have altered the steering component angles. So, anything factory or old will become a weak link. So things might start failing on you now, like upper & lower ball joints, control arms, inner & outer tie rods, wheel bearings, sway bar links/bushings, brakes, etc.

The worst thing about lifting vehicles is most people forget to mention how many components need to be replaced when jacking the truck up. I have been devoting the past 4-5 months to strictly maintenance related repairs and preventative maintenance.

I had vibration/popping in my steering wheel and it ended up being steering rack bushings.

your sway bar end links could be the problem, yes. Your rear sway bar does need to be longer, as well as your front, if the connection between the sway bar, and the link is at an angle.
 
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That's a good point, I plan on replacing all the above a few at a time spread out over the next 4-6 months. This thing looked fairly beat on before I got it. Guess I'll be keeping it around 50 MPH till I diagnose the issue. Does kinda suck that most diagnosis involves trial and error, buy a new part, put it on, hope that fixed that issue.
 
Okay guys, I finally got my toytec lift on after waiting about 3 months for the back ordered front springs. Took about 10 hours to get on after running into several issues and having 2 springs compressors break while compressing springs. Everything has been tightened and is secured and I am getting a vibration that wasn't there before only after I get up to about 50 MPH and above. It looked as though the front UCA's were rubbing the inner top of the tires so I bought some G2 1.25 spacers hoping it would take care of the problem but it didn't. Any idea's or similar experiences? The vibration kind of feels like something is rubbing but I have look it over several times carefully and doesn't seem tire is rubbing anywhere. I have 265/75/16's on stock rims.
I still have not had the truck aligned after install which will be done this weekend.

I have this exact same problem. I got a small lift a couple months ago and when I got vibration I thought it was an alignment issue, got an alignment done a week ago, still same vibration. Although my truck needed an alignment anyways the steering was out of control going over bumps. I think the issue I have is wheel bearings.
 
I have this exact same problem. I got a small lift a couple months ago and when I got vibration I thought it was an alignment issue, got an alignment done a week ago, still same vibration. Although my truck needed an alignment anyways the steering was out of control going over bumps. I think the issue I have is wheel bearings.

Well, what are your symptoms during driving?
In terms of wheel bearings, you only really hear one grind and hiss while your driving slow. You do get mild shifting to one side, whichever is having the wheel bearing issue. Are you getting pulled from one side to another while driving? Does it only pull to one side? Or does it just have sloppy steering now, like bumps throw you in various directions and while your driving, you have to keep rotating the wheel to stay straight?
 
Well, what are your symptoms during driving?
In terms of wheel bearings, you only really hear one grind and hiss while your driving slow. You do get mild shifting to one side, whichever is having the wheel bearing issue. Are you getting pulled from one side to another while driving? Does it only pull to one side? Or does it just have sloppy steering now, like bumps throw you in various directions and while your driving, you have to keep rotating the wheel to stay straight?

No after the I got the alignment my truck is firm over bumps no swaying around and crap. It's just when I hit preferably 65-73mph there's a vibration in the steering wheel. If I go any faster its fine.
 
No after the I got the alignment my truck is firm over bumps no swaying around and crap. It's just when I hit preferably 65-73mph there's a vibration in the steering wheel. If I go any faster its fine.

Ah, yeah. Your wheel bearings might just need to be repacked or replaced, or tire psi is slightly off?
 
I mean, usually suspension lifts don't require an alignment. A body lift usually requires an alignment, but their both suggested to get an alignment.

Not sure if you accidentally typed this backwards but suspension lifts do require alignments. I don't have a body lift but I wouldn't think an alignment is required unless adding the spacer to the rag joint throws things off.
 
Not sure if you accidentally typed this backwards but suspension lifts do require alignments. I don't have a body lift but I wouldn't think an alignment is required unless adding the spacer to the rag joint throws things off.

Yes, I meant you require an alignment with a suspension lift, damn. I have those switched. Thank you for mentioning that.
Yeah, body lifts don't mess with any angles, only it pushes the body higher. Suspension components are not altered. In a suspension lift, yes, alignments are imperative.
 
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Yes, I meant you require an alignment with a suspension lift, damn. I have those switched. Thank you for mentioning that.
Yeah, body lifts don't mess with any angles, only it pushed the body higher. All suspension components are not touched. In a suspension lift, yes, alignments are imperative.

I knew you knew that. Just wanted to clear that up for the other guys in the thread. :thumb:
 
Okay so looks like it's gonna be the CV axles. The angle's since the lift install are not good. The boots have slid back so far that it sprayed grease all over the suspension. I bought a diff drop to bring the axles back to about level in the mean time before I get the new axles on. Anyone wondering if you need the diff drop...... YES You Do if you wanna keep your CV axle working cause mine are dying since the install.
 
Okay so just got the truck back from the shop with new CV axles. I have added the Toytec Diff drop kit and it hasn't helped. Still save vibration from 50 MPH and above. Was really hoping for a few more responses or at least a response from someone who has had this problem. I have been doing as much research as possible and looks like i'm leaning toward Drive Shaft issues. Possibly the wrong angle on the drive shaft or something related. From my research it seems to be very common for our vehicles as well as TACO's. I'm a little lost on where to go from here.
 
Okay so just got the truck back from the shop with new CV axles. I have added the Toytec Diff drop kit and it hasn't helped. Still save vibration from 50 MPH and above. Was really hoping for a few more responses or at least a response from someone who has had this problem. I have been doing as much research as possible and looks like i'm leaning toward Drive Shaft issues. Possibly the wrong angle on the drive shaft or something related. From my research it seems to be very common for our vehicles as well as TACO's. I'm a little lost on where to go from here.

I wont even get into the diff drop debate because i have ran one on my old rig and without one on my current rig, both had same vibration issues. Both torn through CV's so to me, the diff drop did absolutely nothing.

As for the vibration.....I really have no idea. I thought it was the CV's as well, replaced and nothing changed. Re tightened everything i possibly could and nothing changed. Had three different alignments done, rotated tires in between as well and rebalanced the tires and the vibration is still there.

So as people have mentioned in the past, it might be the u joints. I have not checked or replaced those yet.
 
Might want to check the height of the coilovers. I know another member had his Toytec coilovers cranked up a little too high and it was causing some vibrations. Bring them down a rotation or two and see if that helps. CV's shouldn't cause any vibrations btw.
 
Can't be the front driveshaft unless you are driving everywhere in 4wd. If you felt the vibration in your back as you are driving, it could be the rear driveshaft/u-joints but if you feel the vibration in the steering wheel then there is definitely something askew up front. What condition are the tires in? If they are old, the belts could the be problem when the tire gets heated up after driving for a bit.
If the wheel bearings were the culprit, I would think that you would hear a roaring noise at high speed and a dull grinding noise at slower speeds. Please let us know what you find out.
 
I have the same vibration as described with no diff drop. I'm thinking I may need new lower control arm bushings. I didn't loosen the cam bolts before prying on the lower control arm to get the coil over installed.

I have new light racing upper arms, OEM lower balljoints, OEM outer tierod end, and senkei inner tierods. I had no such vibration before the lift.
 
If you lifted the rear, you have thrown off the pinion angle on the rear drive shaft at the axle.

On a drive shaft with a double cardan, which the 4x4 runners have, the single cardan at the axle needs to be within 1 to 2 degrees of being in line with the pinion otherwise you will get vibrations from the drive shaft. The cure is new upper or lower arms on the rear axle to rotate the pinion up. When I lifted mine, post lift the angle on my drive shaft was 11 degrees and the pinion angle was, IIRC around 5 degrees. Ideally they should be within 1 degree of one another with the positive difference working in a manner that axle wrap will bring them inline.

Also, when lifting the front you decrease the castor angle which leads to a wandering since castor angle is what helps the steering self center. Castor angle is somewhat adjustable via manipulation of the adjusters, but there is only so much.
 
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If you lifted the rear, you have thrown off the pinion angle on the rear drive shaft at the axle.

On a drive shaft with a double cardan, which the 4x4 runners have, the single cardan at the axle needs to be within 1 to 2 degrees of being in line with the pinion otherwise you will get vibrations from the drive shaft. The cure is new upper or lower arms on the rear axle to rotate the pinion up. When I lifted mine, post lift the angle on my drive shaft was 11 degrees and the pinion angle was, IIRC around 5 degrees. Ideally they should be within 1 degree of one another with the positive difference working in a manner that axle wrap will bring them inline.

Also, when lifting the front you decrease the castor angle which leads to a wandering since castor angle is what helps the steering self center. Castor angle is somewhat adjustable via manipulation of the adjusters, but there is only so much.


I really appreciate this advice! I am going to take measurement soon but I believe the front is sitting higher than the rear and it looks slightly visibly noticable. I am going to do the cheapest things possible first. Tires are only 2 months old, lift is 2 weeks old now. I am going to take the front suspension off this weekend and drop the perch down 1 on my bilstein 1500's they are both sitting on the middle perch and the front end looks slightly higher than the rear. I beleive this may help. The brand new CV axles plus the diff drop have actually helped a little bit with vibration. i'm able to get all the way up to about 65 MPH now without much vibration and even after that, it's not terrible but I do need to clear this up. Tires are 275/70/16 BTW. If after dropping the front slightly doesn't work, I'm going to purchase a Pan hard drop, then adjustable rear upper and lower control arms, and then go from there.
 

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