Vibration Problem

I

iwilli1169

New member
We've been having a vibration problem in our 1997 4Runner Limited. We have two seperate issues. One i know is the tire balance when we get above 65mpg. I'm talking about the God awful vibration when braking. I just did the Tundra brake upgrade, new shocks (front and back), timing belt, transmission flush, etc. I thought about the fact that it could be tie rods, control arm bushings, or steering rack bushings. However, it doesn't feel like I have a wandering problem or a problem with the wheels fighting against each other while I'm driving (bad tie rod). Does anybody else have this problem and know a solution. The 4Runner has 200,986miles on it and rides great except for this.

Thanks,

Isiah
 
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had the same problem. rotors either need to be turned or replaced cause they are warped. this is especially true if it only happens when braking... and gets worse at high speeds. if they are fairly new... turning the rotors will work and be fairly inexpensive.
 
It's not the brakes. I'm thinking it's the control arm bushings or the ball joints. Maybe even the steering rack being loose. How many of you guys have had vibrations because of those items?
 
iwilli1169 said:
It's not the brakes. I'm thinking it's the control arm bushings or the ball joints. Maybe even the steering rack being loose. How many of you guys have had vibrations because of those items?
Click to expand...


I did the Brembo solids and ceramic pads... and the vibrating is back too... I am so pissed and need to figure it out as welll
 
Though our 4runner is older , it had similar issues. I found after replacing the motor and trans mounts, the truck was significantly improved in multiple areas:
-reduced and or eliminated most of the vibrations rattles/clunks
-improved stability when braking
-much more stable at speed
Well, you get the idea. I've also installed urethane rear control arm bushings along with new sway bar bushings which has immensely improved the way the truck tracks down the hwy. The stability on corners is night and day. :beer:
 
I am thinking it's the control arm bushings. Does anybody know the procedure for switching those out? Do I need a press? Do I need to completely remove the control arms? This would be for the upper and lower control arm bushings at the front.
 
4h8tnas.jpg

I burned the bonded rubber portion out, then chiseled out the shell. I installed aftermarket urethane versions, but if you were going with a factory bushing you'll need a press. The one in the pic is an upper rear control arm. I'm about to do the fronts along with ball joints this week if the temps are up a bit.
 
My mechanic explained that many cases of brake vibrations are caused by warped rotors- and what causes the warped rotors? When a shop does not use a torque wrench to put the wheels back on after a rotation, brake job, etc. They use an air wrench and jam them back on warping the rotors. It is actually very common.

If it isn't warped rotors, make sure your shop has a road force balance machine by Hunter. Check this out:

http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/technical/4127T/4127t.cfm

Also, get a 4 wheel alignment, not just a 2 wheel. There is a huge difference.

Hope this helps. Mine is as smooth as the day I picked her up, and I'm on the original brakes. 2001 SR5 4x4 with 82k. Only on my 2nd set of tires too. Michelin M/S.
 
that also happens to mine when i brake so i replaced my front rotors, front & rear brakes and the vibration disappeared. it was worst while i was on the freeway braking from 70mph to slow down. it was like an earthquake!
 
palwine said:
My mechanic explained that many cases of brake vibrations are caused by warped rotors- and what causes the warped rotors? When a shop does not use a torque wrench to put the wheels back on after a rotation, brake job, etc. They use an air wrench and jam them back on warping the rotors. It is actually very common.

If it isn't warped rotors, make sure your shop has a road force balance machine by Hunter. Check this out:

http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/technical/4127T/4127t.cfm

Also, get a 4 wheel alignment, not just a 2 wheel. There is a huge difference.

Hope this helps. Mine is as smooth as the day I picked her up, and I'm on the original brakes. 2001 SR5 4x4 with 82k. Only on my 2nd set of tires too. Michelin M/S.
Click to expand...

I thought 4 Wheel alignments were jokes since we have solid rear axles?
 
palwine said:
My mechanic explained that many cases of brake vibrations are caused by warped rotors- and what causes the warped rotors? When a shop does not use a torque wrench to put the wheels back on after a rotation, brake job, etc. They use an air wrench and jam them back on warping the rotors. It is actually very common.

If it isn't warped rotors, make sure your shop has a road force balance machine by Hunter. Check this out:

http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/technical/4127T/4127t.cfm

Also, get a 4 wheel alignment, not just a 2 wheel. There is a huge difference.

Hope this helps. Mine is as smooth as the day I picked her up, and I'm on the original brakes. 2001 SR5 4x4 with 82k. Only on my 2nd set of tires too. Michelin M/S.
Click to expand...

Thats the hilarious. So you mean using an impact is squeezing the rim against the rotor so hard it is bending and squishing it? HA! Time for a new mechanic. You would strip a stud waayyyy before that ever happened.
 
What is hilarious is your ignorance. Do a little research my good friend. BMW researched this topic about a decade ago when it saw an epidemic of beemers coming into the dealerships with vibration problems. Today, many auto manufacturers suggest that a torque wrench be used to install the wheel lugs; by applying equal pressure on all the lugs, it will lessen the chance of wheel vibrations and reduce warping of the brake rotor via unequal pressure on the surrounding hub, to which the rotor is bolted.

Here is my mechanic's take on it:

http://www.mpt.org/motorweek/goss/2436.shtml

Again, do a little research before you post. Ignorant fool.
 
palwine said:
Today, many auto manufacturers suggest that a torque wrench be used to install the wheel lugs; by applying equal pressure on all the lugs, it will lessen the chance of wheel vibrations and reduce warping of the brake rotor via unequal pressure on the surrounding hub, to which the rotor is bolted.
Click to expand...

This also holds true to the pattern as to which the bolts are tightened. Some hot shot or rookie mechs do not bother trying to even out the torque down of the bolts - they simply go in a clockwise sequence and not hitting the opposite ends.

I too say rotors - either you got one that's defective, or they weren't torqued down properly. Either way - don't waste your money on bushings and other parts that are probably fine to begin with.

If you still have doubts - get it professionally checked and diagnosed - then go buy the parts you need
 
4 wheel vs 2 wheel. Correct me if I'm wrong, but to do a proper alignment the rear wheels must be referenced which won't be done if you ask for a front alignment only:

Set Back
Set back is when one front wheel is set further back than the other wheel. With alignment equipment that measures toe by using only the front instruments, any setback will cause an uncentered steering wheel. Any good 4-wheel aligner will reference the rear wheels when setting toe in order to eliminate this problem.

Some good alignment equipment will measure set back and give you a reading in inches or millimeters. A set back of less than 1/4 inch is considered normal tolerance by some manufacturers. More than that and there is a good chance that something is bent.

Return

Thrust Angle
Thrust angle is the direction that the rear wheels are pointing in relation to the center line of the vehicle. If the thrust angle is not zero, then the vehicle will "dog track" and the steering wheel will not be centered. The best solution is to first adjust the rear toe to the center line and then adjust the front toe. This is normally done during a 4-wheel alignment as long as the rear toe is adjustable. If the rear is not adjustable, then the front toe must be set to compensate for the thrust angle, allowing the steering to be centered.

Here is a link to my mechanic's website explaining why 2 wheel only is obsolete:

http://www.mpt.org/motorweek/goss/20018.shtml
 
palwine said:
What is hilarious is your ignorance. Do a little research my good friend. BMW researched this topic about a decade ago when it saw an epidemic of beemers coming into the dealerships with vibration problems. Today, many auto manufacturers suggest that a torque wrench be used to install the wheel lugs; by applying equal pressure on all the lugs, it will lessen the chance of wheel vibrations and reduce warping of the brake rotor via unequal pressure on the surrounding hub, to which the rotor is bolted.

Here is my mechanic's take on it:

http://www.mpt.org/motorweek/goss/2436.shtml

Again, do a little research before you post. Ignorant fool.
Click to expand...

well arent you brave sitting in front of your keyboard typing insults.
 
Just standing up for myself.

Your comment to my post:

"Thats the hilarious. So you mean using an impact is squeezing the rim against the rotor so hard it is bending and squishing it? HA! Time for a new mechanic. You would strip a stud waayyyy before that ever happened."
 
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