Vibrations from 60-70mph

[T4topher]

Dropped it off at a mechanic and was told the vibrations and noise was from the rear wheel bearings. Quoted $600 to do both. Doesn't seem like a job I can really tackle without the right tools and a garage. I think I might do it, thoughts?

Gunna be hard with out a garage.. but for the cost of the shop doing it you could basically buy the tools and the parts for the same amount or less. If you haven’t watched Timmy the toolmans video on it already that’s a good place to start.

 

[Mushroom_Toy]

Dropped it off at a mechanic and was told the vibrations and noise was from the rear wheel bearings. Quoted $600 to do both. Doesn't seem like a job I can really tackle without the right tools and a garage. I think I might do it, thoughts?

I still feel like the tires have a little to do with it, especially if you know one of the tires already has a bulge. Age, wear and brand have a lot to play into it. It does happen Im sure, but Ive never had a wheel bearing that made noise in a certain speed range but not at slow to medium or high speed as well. And generally both wouldnt be bad at the same time unless the issue stemmed form the axle seals going bad first, but you could tell that if you pulled rear abs wheel sensors and checked them for gear lube on the sensor and in the housing.

 

[texadelphia]

Dropped it off at a mechanic and was told the vibrations and noise was from the rear wheel bearings. Quoted $600 to do both. Doesn't seem like a job I can really tackle without the right tools and a garage. I think I might do it, thoughts?

I can imagine the noise coming from wheel bearings but I'm skeptical of vibration. I'm also having vibration issues around 60-70 mph and just replaced wheel bearings last week and it hasn't gone away. I think it's either the 10 year old tires or something in the front end. Maybe LBJs.

That said, if it is wheel bearings, I pulled my axles myself, bought replacement parts, and took them to an automotive machine shop to have everything removed and pressed on. It basically cost me $60 per axle plus parts. I bought my parts from a dealership so it was like $340 in parts but if you're willing to wait you can find the stuff cheaper online and save $100. I consider myself an average mechanic at best and the job wasn't too bad with normal hand tools. Hardest part was getting the damn return spring on the brakes. Haha. I relied heavily on mtbtim's videos for the axle rebuild and brake job.

If you do use OEM axle seals be sure you have the shop flip the inner retainers like mtbtim recommends. If I wouldn't have had them flipped, the inner seal lip would have been dangerously close to the bevel on the retainer.

EDIT: I replaced my bearings because I found that the seals were leaking, not to try to fix vibrations.

 

[SeaBassHWD]

Also, check your rear LCA/UCA bushings.

 

[Sarki]

Reading through all the replies many of us have had issues with vibrations for one reason or another.
These trucks are now 20+ years old with lots of miles so there are many possibilities as bushings wear out and crack, suspension/steering components wear out and alignments change.
Best is to start with the basics which many times are the lowest cost possibilities and go from there.
Careful inspection of the tires/wheels followed by a quality Road Force wheel balancing of all 4 wheels would be my starting place.
Once that’s done if still a problem if your not comfortable doing yourself find a quality shop to inspect your suspension bushings and steering components.
Odds are you’ll find the problem.
I’d do the above before replacing the rear axle bearings unless you have leaky seals as than go for it as the repair is needed anyway.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Careful inspection of the tires/wheels followed by a quality Road Force wheel balancing of all 4 wheels would be my starting place.

^ I would definitely start with this ^.

 

[plcfcng]

Something to try is put it up on jack stands pointing in a safe direction and bring it up to speed and see if you can isolate the vibration. If you are in two wheel drive and it goes a way then you can look at the front eg driveline. If the vibration happens in two wheel drive then look to tires driveline.:car:

 

[texadelphia]

Something to try is put it up on jack stands pointing in a safe direction and bring it up to speed and see if you can isolate the vibration. If you are in two wheel drive and it goes a way then you can look at the front eg driveline. If the vibration happens in two wheel drive then look to tires driveline.:car:

This makes sense but man, it'd be scary getting up to 60 mph on jackstands!

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

 

[T4topher]

This makes sense but man, it'd be scary getting up to 60 mph on jackstands!

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

Exactly what I was thinking, 60-70 mph on jack stands sounds super sketch lol. Like others I’d highly recommend starting with a road force tire balance, pretty sure these trucks are somewhat sensitive to tires that are out of balance. Make sure they have a road force machine before you go, I don’t think all shops have it.

 

[plcfcng]

Properly placed jack stands on the axle tubes will allow you to safely run up engine and drive train to the desired speeds. There are many variables driving down roads that include slowing for another driver, wash board road and others while trying to evaluate where the vibration is coming from makes it much more difficult:wave:.

 

[ambush]

TOTALLY FORGOT - Driveshaft

Team

I totally forgot as this topic has been discussed. Our 4runners along with other Toyotas, have a rubber grommet/gasket in between the inner/outer drive shaft housing. Over time (def in my case with 580k miles) wears out and makes the truck vibrate BAD 60+ mph. Even after replacing the obvious parts, still no help. What we need is a SOLID driveshaft and new serviceable (maybe) ujoints.

Toyota Replacement Driveshafts

Take a look. I apologize as I forgot. Just get so wrapped up and frustrated dumping $$ into things that DO need to be replaced but seem to skip right over the obvious.

I hope this helps. I may find someone local to me to make me one? I dont know. I really think this will correct our problems.

Thanks

--Ambush

 

[Roger.klotz]

I have this issue as well

 

[texadelphia]

Team

I totally forgot as this topic has been discussed. Our 4runners along with other Toyotas, have a rubber grommet/gasket in between the inner/outer drive shaft housing. Over time (def in my case with 580k miles) wears out and makes the truck vibrate BAD 60+ mph. Even after replacing the obvious parts, still no help. What we need is a SOLID driveshaft and new serviceable (maybe) ujoints.

Toyota Replacement Driveshafts

Take a look. I apologize as I forgot. Just get so wrapped up and frustrated dumping $$ into things that DO need to be replaced but seem to skip right over the obvious.

I hope this helps. I may find someone local to me to make me one? I dont know. I really think this will correct our problems.

Thanks

--Ambush

Is this only on 2wd models? The quote below is from the website you linked.

"Two types of driveshafts were were used on the 4x4 4 Runner. Neither has the rubber coupled element of the 2 wd 4 Runner."

 

[Bad Luck]

Is this only on 2wd models? The quote below is from the website you linked.

"Two types of driveshafts were were used on the 4x4 4 Runner. Neither has the rubber coupled element of the 2 wd 4 Runner."

Only 2wd models have that rubber piece on the driveshaft

 

[ambush]

the 4wds have a similar issue

Is this only on 2wd models? The quote below is from the website you linked.

"Two types of driveshafts were were used on the 4x4 4 Runner. Neither has the rubber coupled element of the 2 wd 4 Runner."

4wd have similar issues. Look at the replacements:

2000 Toyota 4Runner Drive Shaft - Toyota 4Runner Driveline - Free Shipping

 

[Bad Luck]

4wd have similar issues. Look at the replacements:

2000 Toyota 4Runner Drive Shaft - Toyota 4Runner Driveline - Free Shipping

4wd driveshafts don't have the rubber piece that 2wd driveshafts do. U-joints wear out in both 2wd and 4wd driveshafts.

 

[ir0nma1den]

I'm happy to report I solved my vibration and noise issues! Took it to a shop who showed me that the double cardan joint was loose and suggested I replace the driveshaft.

I ordered a driveshaft for Tom Woods for under $500 and it was 100% worth it. It's crazy how quiet my truck runs now.

 

[ColoMtnMan]

Just did my LCA bushings and replaced with White Line. Took a 12 ton press and acetylene torch to push the old ones out. Steering rack need doing so that was replaced at the same time as well as OTE. Sway bar and link bushings replaced with Energy Suspension Bushings. Still have vibration above 60 mph. Accelerating reduces vibration. Also replaced original shocks/bushings with 5100s. I swap winter/summer tire/wheel combos and get the same vibration so not wheel/tire related. Will have to check U-joints...

 

[Zottyzot]

I have a similar issue.
Mine started after I had a shop do some work on the truck, It's been a year or so, I think it was to replace the rear-most U-joint, but I know they had to drop the driveshaft. I assumed they put it back in wrong and it was out of balance as a result. I took it back to them and they assured me that it was re-installed correctly... Anyhow, the problem persists. Maybe a new driveshaft would fix the issue.
ir0nma1den, did you replace both driveshafts or only the rear?

Thanks,
Mike