VIDEOS: Ultimate Oil Change Upgrades - Tools, Tips, and How-To

[007Tacoma]

We put together a video of all the upgrades we did that made our oil changes faster and cleaner...

[MENTION=444815]LFD_Off_Road[/MENTION] Steel Front Skids
Toyota Genuine Parts Oil Filter Element (04152-YZZA5): Amazon.com: Toyota Genuine Parts 04152-YZZA5 Replaceable Oil Filter Element - 04152YZZA5: Automotive
Toyota Genuine Parts Cap Oil Filter (15620-31060): Amazon.com: TOYOTA Genuine Parts - Cap Assy, Oil Filter (15620-31060): Automotive
Fumoto F103 Oil Drain Valve: Amazon.com: Fumoto Original F103S LC-10 Lever Clip FS-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve, 1 Pack: Automotive
MotivX Tools Oil Filter Wrench for Toyotas: Amazon.com: Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench for Toyota, Lexus, and Scion 2.0 To 5.7 Liter Engines with 64mm Cartridge Style Oil Filter System - Perfect for Camry, RAV4, Tacoma, Highlander, Sienna, Tundra, and More: Automotive
MotivX Tools Oil Filter Wrench with Drain Hose: Amazon.com: Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench and Drain Tool Set for Toyota & Lexus 2.0L - 5.7L Engines with Cartridge Style Oil Filter Systems: Automotive ***This is what I used***
MotivX Tools Oil Filter Wrench with Drain Hose and Funnel: https://amzn.to/2OhUSXN


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UPDATE: After one year of using this method and these tools, we wanted to give an update on everything and show off some new tools. So, a new video was definitely in order. On average, I can have an oil change on the 4Runner completed in 20 minutes including "refreshment breaks", talking to my wife, and answering ALL of my son's questions.

Also, MotivX Tools updated their Filter Wrench to not have the tabs. Now it works on any Toyota Engine that utilizes a 64mm Filter Housing, is made in the USA, and all at the same cost as the original wrench. So, of course, I now have both.


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[007Tacoma]

...I finally got the video to show up in the original post. arty::dancin:

 

[thennen]

We put together a video of all the upgrades we did that made our oil changes faster and cleaner...

@%1; Steel Front Skids
Toyota Genuine Parts Oil Filter Element (04152-YZZA5): Amazon.com: Toyota Genuine Parts 04152-YZZA5 Replaceable Oil Filter Element - 04152YZZA5: Automotive
Toyota Genuine Parts Cap Oil Filter (15620-31060): Amazon.com: TOYOTA Genuine Parts - Cap Assy, Oil Filter (15620-31060): Automotive
Fumoto F103 Oil Drain Valve: Amazon.com: Fumoto Original F103S LC-10 Lever Clip FS-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve, 1 Pack: Automotive
MotivX Tools Oil Filter Wrench for Toyotas: Amazon.com: Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench for Toyota, Lexus, and Scion 2.0 To 5.7 Liter Engines with 64mm Cartridge Style Oil Filter System - Perfect for Camry, RAV4, Tacoma, Highlander, Sienna, Tundra, and More: Automotive
MotivX Tools Oil Filter Wrench with Drain Hose: Amazon.com: Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench and Drain Tool Set for Toyota & Lexus 2.0L - 5.7L Engines with Cartridge Style Oil Filter Systems: Automotive ***This is what I used***
MotivX Tools Oil Filter Wrench with Drain Hose and Funnel: https://amzn.to/2OhUSXN


Ultimate Upgrades for Changing the Oil on the 2010 to 2021 Toyota 4Runner

https://youtu.be/Uf43DacVRl8

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This is great - thank you for posting! Anything that will make crawling under my truck easier, I'm all for.

Two questions: 1-it looks like I'll need to replace the OEM skid on my TRDOR to get this access, correct? 2-what would you estimate as a ballpark cost for the entire conversion?

Thanks again.

 

[Metal Head]

How is the aluminum filter cap an upgrade? Aluminum cap threads into the aluminum filter housing threads opens up an opportunity for thread galling not present with the plastic housing. Also if someone manages to cross thread it you are could damage the threads in the housing and not just the cap.

Are the plastic versions prone to cracking or something I don't know about?

 

[eevanskiteboards]

How is the aluminum filter cap an upgrade? Aluminum cap threads into the aluminum filter housing threads opens up an opportunity for thread galling not present with the plastic housing. Also if someone manages to cross thread it you are could damage the threads in the housing and not just the cap.



Are the plastic versions prone to cracking or something I don't know about?

Yes, many people have reported them cracking when removing/installing due to repair shops tightening them down with an impact driver etc. That obviously leads to cracks and leaks etc.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

 

[007Tacoma]

This is great - thank you for posting! Anything that will make crawling under my truck easier, I'm all for.

Two questions: 1-it looks like I'll need to replace the OEM skid on my TRDOR to get this access, correct? 2-what would you estimate as a ballpark cost for the entire conversion?

Thanks again.

Correct. The stock skids require you to remove them or "swing them out of the way". We destroyed ours off roading. So, its nice to see the LFD Skids holding up so well.

As for the cost: It really depends on what skid plate you go with. Both LFD Off Road's Front Skids (Aluminum or Steel) offer way more protection than the stock skids, and they both have the same access in them.

If you aren't going off road, I would recommend the aluminum - no rust, easy lift into place, and lighter. However, as you can tell from our skids, we are hard on them. So, we went with Steel.

 

[007Tacoma]

How is the aluminum filter cap an upgrade? Aluminum cap threads into the aluminum filter housing threads opens up an opportunity for thread galling not present with the plastic housing. Also if someone manages to cross thread it you are could damage the threads in the housing and not just the cap.

Are the plastic versions prone to cracking or something I don't know about?

The plastic cap I had was torn up by over-zealous oil change "technicians" at the dealership. This upgrade happened only because as of now I do ALL my own oil changes on the 4Runner. Between cross-threaded drain plugs and over-tightened filter housings, I was done with letting anyone else underneath my rig.

Yes, many people have reported them cracking when removing/installing due to repair shops tightening them down with an impact driver etc. That obviously leads to cracks and leaks etc.

Yep - also why I don't let anyone else touch my 4Runner's engine.

 

[007Tacoma]

I guess one thing I should have included in the video - Don't overtighten any of this, and always start threading on by hand (which I did not do in the video) :ybrick:

 

[Metal Head]

Gotcha...

I feel the same way, I let the dealer do my first "free" service figuring they could handle an oil change and I was rewarded with them stripping out two of the threads out that hold my skid plates on.

 

[patkelly4370]

My turn!
Any problems accessing the Fumoto valve through the hole in the skid?
Are you using the locking clip on the valve?
I have the valve to be installed at my next oil change. Hoping to get an aftermarket skid plate before then.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[007Tacoma]

My turn!
Any problems accessing the Fumoto valve through the hole in the skid?
Are you using the locking clip on the valve?
I have the valve to be installed at my next oil change. Hoping to get an aftermarket skid plate before then.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

No problems accessing it with the LFD skid. Just enough room to flip the valve open and drain the pan without getting oil on your hands or the skids (provided there isn't a strong wind - it happened once). I don't use a locking clip since the valve "handle" seats really well in the closed position.

 

[patkelly4370]

No problems accessing it with the LFD skid. Just enough room to flip the valve open and drain the pan without getting oil on your hands or the skids (provided there isn't a strong wind - it happened once). I don't use a locking clip since the valve "handle" seats really well in the closed position.

It's always really windy here. I have clear vinyl tubing (like in your video) that fits the valve when I get to that point.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[HanginInUtah]

Good video and write up, but...
I am not going to change my plastic cap. Why? Because I'm the only one that has ever changed the oil, and always with the right tools, and replacing the o-rings. I have a Fumoto valve for the drain, that same cap for the filter housing, and the valve to drain the filter housing (although, I prefer it without the tubing. I can see with the LFD skids in place, the tubing may help keep the oil off your hands. I still have my stock skid and I hate having one more squiggly thing to accidentally get oil somewhere or that I have to clean after.)
The one thing I'm doing, as long as I DO have my stock skid plate: I'm changing the bolts out to studs, with flanged nuts. After removing/replacing the bolts a few times I've seen comments on here that some have chased threads to keep them going. Those bolts have the notch in the threads, and they can cut new threads (or start to) and cross thread if you're not careful, so I'm going to make that upgrade. I don't abuse my skid enough to warrant new ones yet... not that I don't want them. Oh, and a little dab of anti-seize on skid plate bolts/studs goes a long way to prevent bad language and busted knuckles.
Additionally, I have a set of ramps. Pull the Runner up on them, and there's plenty of room to creep around underneath. I haven't modified the hooks on the stock skid, either. But I did lose the plastic push-pin on the front lower cover that attaches in front of the skid.

 

[007Tacoma]

Good video and write up, but...
I am not going to change my plastic cap. Why? Because I'm the only one that has ever changed the oil, and always with the right tools, and replacing the o-rings. I have a Fumoto valve for the drain, that same cap for the filter housing, and the valve to drain the filter housing (although, I prefer it without the tubing. I can see with the LFD skids in place, the tubing may help keep the oil off your hands. I still have my stock skid and I hate having one more squiggly thing to accidentally get oil somewhere or that I have to clean after.)
The one thing I'm doing, as long as I DO have my stock skid plate: I'm changing the bolts out to studs, with flanged nuts. After removing/replacing the bolts a few times I've seen comments on here that some have chased threads to keep them going. Those bolts have the notch in the threads, and they can cut new threads (or start to) and cross thread if you're not careful, so I'm going to make that upgrade. I don't abuse my skid enough to warrant new ones yet... not that I don't want them. Oh, and a little dab of anti-seize on skid plate bolts/studs goes a long way to prevent bad language and busted knuckles.
Additionally, I have a set of ramps. Pull the Runner up on them, and there's plenty of room to creep around underneath. I haven't modified the hooks on the stock skid, either. But I did lose the plastic push-pin on the front lower cover that attaches in front of the skid.

Definitely - it's not for everyone, but I have been super happy with the functionality of it all. For me this setup works the best (only took me 140,000 miles to figure it all out), and I figured I'd share...

I think the biggest thing I am hearing from feedback is the skid plate. People hate dealing with the stock skids to the point that they just let the dealership/whomever handle the oil change. The LFD Off Road skid plates definitely make the entire process much easier.

 

[007Tacoma]

It's always really windy here. I have clear vinyl tubing (like in your video) that fits the valve when I get to that point.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I definitely need to get a piece of tubing to go from the Fumoto Valve to the drain pan. Lately, I have been draining the filter first and then the pan for this reason.

 

[KENGNJ]

Nice Job

Thanks for posting this is a great write up.

 

[thennen]

Good video and write up, but...
I am not going to change my plastic cap. Why? Because I'm the only one that has ever changed the oil, and always with the right tools, and replacing the o-rings. I have a Fumoto valve for the drain, that same cap for the filter housing, and the valve to drain the filter housing (although, I prefer it without the tubing. I can see with the LFD skids in place, the tubing may help keep the oil off your hands. I still have my stock skid and I hate having one more squiggly thing to accidentally get oil somewhere or that I have to clean after.)
The one thing I'm doing, as long as I DO have my stock skid plate: I'm changing the bolts out to studs, with flanged nuts. After removing/replacing the bolts a few times I've seen comments on here that some have chased threads to keep them going. Those bolts have the notch in the threads, and they can cut new threads (or start to) and cross thread if you're not careful, so I'm going to make that upgrade. I don't abuse my skid enough to warrant new ones yet... not that I don't want them. Oh, and a little dab of anti-seize on skid plate bolts/studs goes a long way to prevent bad language and busted knuckles.
Additionally, I have a set of ramps. Pull the Runner up on them, and there's plenty of room to creep around underneath. I haven't modified the hooks on the stock skid, either. But I did lose the plastic push-pin on the front lower cover that attaches in front of the skid.

Studs - that's a good idea. Even just a few to act as locating pins (if you wanted to continue using the bolts, too) would help with positioning, and spinning nuts onto them right away would be easier than hunting holes with bolts alone. Thanks for the tip! As for anti-seize, I use that almost everywhere. Saves SOOO much trouble down the road.

 

[DougEFresh2]

here's my 2 cents

Toyota 4Runner Front Skid Plate | 2010-2020 - CBI Offroad Fab

M12-1.25 Quick Twist Valve with Stainless Drain Tube Knob
– ValvoMax Oil Drain System

 

[Dynamo]

The single best thing that has made changing the oil on my 4Runner (and my previous FJ Cruiser) noticeably easier is my Dewalt 20V 3/8" impact wrench. It has made removing and reinstalling all of the skid plate bolts a piece of cake now. My only regret is not buying one sooner.

I haven't felt the need to change anything else. As another poster said, I'm the only one that's ever changed the oil so the plastic housing won't be an issue. The skid plates are the biggest hassle but even then I don't think they're that big of a deal, especially with the above mentioned impact wrench. My 4Runner is stock height and I change the oil without lifting the front at all (via ramps or jacks).

 

[edgesalon]

Gotcha...

I feel the same way, I let the dealer do my first "free" service figuring they could handle an oil change and I was rewarded with them stripping out two of the threads out that hold my skid plates on.

i also got the same thing happen to me except they cross treaded my two front bolts what pain
thanks for the post and the video very interesting , why do you think the engineers at Toyota went with plastic for 4R and not aluminum if they already had the aluminum as a part?