Violent shaking when braking

Make sure your front brake caliper isn't loose.
Make sure your brake shoes aren't loose.
Make sure the rear trailing arms are tight.
Remove your driveshaft and check the u-joints.
Your vibrations could be due to a change of pinion angle while braking and accelerating.
If u-joints check out, check next in line which are trans mounts and motor mounts.


i was very thorough when installing the new brakes. torqued everything to spec... i’ll double check my brake shoes but my parking brake is solid. will check on the driveshaft.. recently replaced trans mount and engine mounts look good


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Another way to troubleshoot front wheel bearing growl/vib is to step on the brake ever so slightly.
If it goes quiet when the brake gets applied you found the issue.
 
Another way to troubleshoot front wheel bearing growl/vib is to step on the brake ever so slightly.
If it goes quiet when the brake gets applied you found the issue.

That works when the bearings are just starting to go out. I had a bearing that failed pretty quick that was still growling and shaking even when the brakes were being applied.
 
today it started to shake when decelerating and accelerating slowly. when i accelerated quickly it wouldn’t shake at all. which led me to believe it was a seized caliper... i but the bullet and did the tundra brake upgrade and it still does the shaking.... i guess i’ll replace the LCA bushings next.


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What was the condition of the hub when you put the new rotor on? If the rotor mounting surface on the hub is pitted, rusty, and beat up the issue is that the new rotor will never sit perfectly flat against the hub. Think about it, if the rotor can't sit flat it is technically warped the second you bolt on the wheel. High/hot spots form on the rotor very quickly and then it will feel like a warped rotor. Take the rotors back off, clean up the hub surface with a wire wheel, and resurface the rotor if you can. I have cleaned up rotors before with those resurfacing hones that you chuck into a drill and they work really good. If the rotor was cocked on the hub by a fraction the brake pad material was definitely laid onto the rotor unevenly, and that is why you feel the wobble. How did those hubs look?
 
Pull up on the hand brake when going about 30mph and come to a complete stop. If you feel vibration, it's in the rear. Handbrake completely removes front braking from the equation.

If you have a front bearing going bad you'll be able to hear it more on one side or the other while turning. The outer wheel will, depending on which way you turn be the loudest if that bearing is failing.

If you can be a little more specific as to the type of vibration it can help narrow down the location. You said no brake pedal vibration, but are you feeling a wobble in the steering wheel? Does the vibration come from the front or does it feel like it's coming from under your butt?
 
Pull up on the hand brake when going about 30mph and come to a complete stop. If you feel vibration, it's in the rear. Handbrake completely removes front braking from the equation.

If you have a front bearing going bad you'll be able to hear it more on one side or the other while turning. The outer wheel will, depending on which way you turn be the loudest if that bearing is failing.

If you can be a little more specific as to the type of vibration it can help narrow down the location. You said no brake pedal vibration, but are you feeling a wobble in the steering wheel? Does the vibration come from the front or does it feel like it's coming from under your butt?


i guess the most noticeable place that the vibration is coming from is the dashboard. but the whole car shakes so much i feel like other people on the road can see it... lol


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Okay so i made a little discovery tonight when checking the contacting surfaces on the hubs.. when i jack the front of the car up, the passenger side wheel spins freely... however the driver side does not. it has a lot of resistance because of the brake pads contacting the rotors. if i compress the brake pistons the wheel spins freely but the second i tap the brakes it gets stuck again. it’s not loosing pressure when the brake petal is not being pressed. if that makes sense... all the other wheels are fine.... what could this be?


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Okay so i made a little discovery tonight when checking the contacting surfaces on the hubs.. when i jack the front of the car up, the passenger side wheel spins freely... however the driver side does not. it has a lot of resistance because of the brake pads contacting the rotors. if i compress the brake pistons the wheel spins freely but the second i tap the brakes it gets stuck again. it’s not loosing pressure when the brake petal is not being pressed. if that makes sense... all the other wheels are fine.... what could this be?


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Partially frozen caliper. Time for a new or rebuilt one.
 
Okay so i made a little discovery tonight when checking the contacting surfaces on the hubs.. when i jack the front of the car up, the passenger side wheel spins freely... however the driver side does not. it has a lot of resistance because of the brake pads contacting the rotors. if i compress the brake pistons the wheel spins freely but the second i tap the brakes it gets stuck again. it’s not loosing pressure when the brake petal is not being pressed. if that makes sense... all the other wheels are fine.... what could this be?


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Partially frozen caliper. Time for a new or rebuilt one.

Totally....caliper problem. Didn't you just put new calipers on though?
 
Yup. Even if they are new out of the box, those "new" parts are still suspect if the problem persists.
Down at those core yards, workers don't get paid well going through a mountain of cores weeding out the bad ones for rebuild. And sometimes bad rebuilt ones do slip through and goes into customers hands.
 
Okay so i made a little discovery tonight when checking the contacting surfaces on the hubs.. when i jack the front of the car up, the passenger side wheel spins freely... however the driver side does not. it has a lot of resistance because of the brake pads contacting the rotors. if i compress the brake pistons the wheel spins freely but the second i tap the brakes it gets stuck again. it’s not loosing pressure when the brake petal is not being pressed. if that makes sense... all the other wheels are fine.... what could this be?


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How old are your brake hoses?

I’ve had that problem be a sticking caliper and a bad rubber hose. The give away for it being a hose problem was the fact that I opened the bleeder and fluid didn’t come out unless I pushed the brake pedal. It wouldn’t flow with gravity.


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How old are your brake hoses?

I’ve had that problem be a sticking caliper and a bad rubber hose. The give away for it being a hose problem was the fact that I opened the bleeder and fluid didn’t come out unless I pushed the brake pedal. It wouldn’t flow with gravity.


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i had that exact proboem too....sticking caliper and a bad hose. now when I do a major brake job on thes 20+ year old rigs I just replace all the hoses....then not worry for years.
I found a hose can go bad with no outside visual bulge or cracks....and plug up inside.
 
calipers are brand new


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Brand new OEM, brand new aftermarket or brand new remanufactured / rebuilt? The reason I ask is that brand new OEM calipers rarely freeze up out of the box. Brand new aftermarket, occasionally. Brand new remanufactured / rebuilt - all the time.

The other possibility is that you pad ears are hanging up in the caliper bracket.
 
Brand new OEM, brand new aftermarket or brand new remanufactured / rebuilt? The reason I ask is that brand new OEM calipers rarely freeze up out of the box. Brand new aftermarket, occasionally. Brand new remanufactured / rebuilt - all the time.

The other possibility is that you pad ears are hanging up in the caliper bracket.


brand new from autozone so i’m assuming rebuilt. i will post a picture in a second.


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How old are your brake hoses. The inner rubber lining delaminates and acts like a check valve similar to what is in our blood vessels.


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I have never changed the brake hoses... and i doubt the previous owner did either. 200k miles on them. probably not a bad idea to change them... is there any way to test if they are bad before i go buy new ones? and if they are bad is it okay to just get them from Autozone/Oreillys?


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I have never changed the brake hoses... and i doubt the previous owner did either. 200k miles on them. probably not a bad idea to change them... is there any way to test if they are bad before i go buy new ones? and if they are bad is it okay to just get them from Autozone/Oreillys?


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Also, i read online now that i have narrowed it down to the drivers side front that it could be the master cylinder that’s messing stuff up... not to sure but sounds like someone else was having a similar problem and fixed it by replacing the MC


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