VSC & Trac Off light ON 2002 4Runner
- Thread starter xcmountain80
- Start date
xcmountain80
New member
It doesn't affect driving that I'm aware of but annoying to have the lights on just the same........oh well
xcmountain80
New member
Ok, it’s late and I’m tired and stupid. Where does the ABS VSC Module live? I cannot find a clear diagram. I know I’ve seen it and I know it lives inside the vehicle. But for the love of ABS where does it reside?
I did see another post where it looks like it lives behind the glove box.
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I did see another post where it looks like it lives behind the glove box.
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rightyouareken
New member
Under the driver's side dash panel.
http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archiv...02rmsour/2002/024runne/di/abswebdb/parloc.pdf
xcmountain80
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2001SR5RWD
New member
TRAC OFF, VSC TRAC lights wont stay off
My CEL, traction control, and vehicle stability control lights are on on my 2001 sr5 rwd. The codes are p0171 (lean) and p0420 (catalyst).
When I am starting the car I can press the trac off button, and the vsc and trac off lights will turn off for a few seconds, but then they will turn right back on again.
I inspected my gas cap for a tear in the O-ring, but I didn't find any. The O-ring felt firm, but not brittle. I put the gas cap back on, making sure to screw it until it clicked once.
I checked for a vacuum leak because of the lean code, and sure enough one of my hose clamps had disappeared and the thick (about 1.25 in) hose connecting to my intake was completely detached. I put it back on without securing it and drove it around for a couple days.
All the lights are still on, and I used my cheap OBDII reader that connects to my phone and laptop to see that the lean code had not gone away. Do I have to manually clear it, or is there still a problem?
I have heard that a faulty oxygen sensor can be associated with both codes, but I don't intend to replace it unless I have to. Where I live, nobody really enforces emissions standards, so I don't care too much about fixing code p0420.
If you could let me know all of your ideas and thoughts, that would be very appreciated.
Thanks!!
My CEL, traction control, and vehicle stability control lights are on on my 2001 sr5 rwd. The codes are p0171 (lean) and p0420 (catalyst).
When I am starting the car I can press the trac off button, and the vsc and trac off lights will turn off for a few seconds, but then they will turn right back on again.
I inspected my gas cap for a tear in the O-ring, but I didn't find any. The O-ring felt firm, but not brittle. I put the gas cap back on, making sure to screw it until it clicked once.
I checked for a vacuum leak because of the lean code, and sure enough one of my hose clamps had disappeared and the thick (about 1.25 in) hose connecting to my intake was completely detached. I put it back on without securing it and drove it around for a couple days.
All the lights are still on, and I used my cheap OBDII reader that connects to my phone and laptop to see that the lean code had not gone away. Do I have to manually clear it, or is there still a problem?
I have heard that a faulty oxygen sensor can be associated with both codes, but I don't intend to replace it unless I have to. Where I live, nobody really enforces emissions standards, so I don't care too much about fixing code p0420.
If you could let me know all of your ideas and thoughts, that would be very appreciated.
Thanks!!
pavelvoivoda
Member
The codes your are mentioning are codes referring to problems arising in the engine.
To read codes for problems arising in the VSC/TRAC/ABS system, you have to open the data link connector in the engine bay and use a paper clip to connect terminals Tc and E1. Then the VSC TRAC warning lights will start blinking.
You can also connect terminals Ts and E1 to try to detect problems arising from the speed sensor signal, but do those two procedures separately to not mix the flashing lights on the dash.
After the corresponding dash lights start blinking, you have to count the number of flashes. It's good to start at the beginning to know what's the first code that is represented. The system blinks the codes starting from the smallest number.
The light blinks a few times then stops for a second, then blinks again, signifying the code. Say it's code 34, the light will flash first 3 times, then pause, then flash 4 more times, then pause for longer, If there is another code it will flash it out. If it is the last code it will pause the longest. Then it will start over.
Remember to take note of the lights that flash, and of the codes thrown, then when done, take the paper clip out and close the port cover.
Then let us know what codes you got.
xcmountain80
New member
I replaced the ABS ECU with a low mileage used one on eBay........and I’m having the same issue again. I reset the system by unplugging the negative terminal and leaving it for some time. Upon initial startup no lights, then the brakes went to the floor and the skid light came on then no brakes. A little bit of engine hesitation too. I pressed my VSC/ ABS kill button and everything was as it had been before. To date I’ve replaced the ABS ECU, the speed sensors at each wheel......and that’s it.
What am I missing?
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What am I missing?
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pavelvoivoda
Member
I was replying to 2001SR5RWD, and maybe it would be appropriate for you to try the same procedure in my previous post. That is if you have the VSC light on, not the VSC OFF light. The VSC OFF light comes on when you lock the center diff to let you know that it is disabled, because the system can't operate with the diff locked. The VSC light comes on when there is a problem with the system and will be disabled until the issues are fixed.
Check the steps above but be careful what pins you connect in the DLC. E1 is ground.
Let us know your car configuration - engine, transmission, 4x4??? etc.
I had the same problem on my 2002 about three years ago. Dealership troubleshot it down to the master cylinder assembly and wanted $4000 for a new one. Looked on the used market and couldn't find a decent one for a cheap price either. After a lot of searching on this forum, I found a post about someone with this problem who vacuum bled the brakes (vice the manual process). On a whim I bought a relatively cheap kit (less than $20 on amazon), and vacuum bled the brakes (replacing the fluid in the process). Haven't had a single problem in three years. Not sure if it will fix your problem, but worth a try!
xcmountain80
New member
Hmmm I’ll give it a shot. What’s the worst that could happen. I spend $30 and 1/2 of time? But here the question how does the vacuum bleeding process work. I have speed bleeders on each corner so that I can bleed my brake solo. Is the thought that I should open them and vacuum a few containers worth of old fluid out?
Keep in mind the brakes work well with the ABS disengaged. After a rest of everything g the damn things nearly put you into the dash before the system checks it and the pedal goes to the floor.
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Essentially the vacuum bleed pulls the fluid out of the bleed port. You loosen/open it up just a little bit, and then use the vacuum to draw the fluid out of the reservoir, rather than using the master cylinder to push it out. I suspect that I had an air bubble or something trapped up in there that wouldn't come out until the vacuum bleed. Like I said, it may be a long-shot, but I hope it fixes your problem!
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