Wandering,sloppy, scary steering

jreask

Member
I have read the numerous threads about sloppy steering on the 2001-2002 4Runners. I have replaced the rack bushings, sway bar bushings, and also checked the rack guide. I have also checked the tie rod ends. My problem is that when the steering wheel is in the locked position, and the front end on jack stands, the wheels will move about 1/2" when I pull on them at the 3 and 9 oclock positions. Both wheels move in unison. My question is should I check the wheel movement with only one side of the front of the truck lifted? Will this be a better way of determining if the tie rod ends are a little loose? How do I tell if the rack has play in it or the tie rod ends are loose?
This truck is becoming pretty scary on the interstate at speeds over 60MPH. It is hard to keep it steering straight. It almost feels like a very windy day when it is actually calm.
I always thought the 4Runners were excellent quality. Is it possible that these racks are just too light for the truck?

Thanks in advance.

JR
 
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I usually dont suggest paying someone to work on your truck, but i think a reputable independent shop is your best bet, have them take a glance at it, remember thats your life behind the wheel of the 60mph 4runner with little control.
 
I usually dont suggest paying someone to work on your truck, but i think a reputable independent shop is your best bet, have them take a glance at it, remember thats your life behind the wheel of the 60mph 4runner with little control.

I have had a local shop look at the truck. They tell me the front end is "tight"

I am going to pull the boots back tomorrow and take a closer look at the rack ends and the outer tie rods.
 
The .5" play you describe in your steering is normal. There was a recall on the lower ball joints for the '02 4runners ('01s may have been included as well). I'm thinking this might be your problem.
 
you CAN move the tires when both are off the ground, unless your steering wheel is locked. Also search for my rack guide replacement thread on Yotatech or TTORA (actually I might re-post it here.. That's something to look into while you are inspecting your Inner TRE's


EDIT: Well the easiest way will be to pull the boots off the Inners, and have someone move the wheel from side to side (with the truck on the ground) and check. Put your finger in the ball-socket area (it will make sense on the inner when you see it) does it feel solid, or does it move? Next check where the inner actually screws into the rack, does that have any play? Put your fingers there too (carefully!) Then look at the cylinder where it goes into the rack, does that move up and down? That would indicate a loose rack guide.

Then does the rack itself move? That would mean you need new rack bushings. Then if that all checks out (both sides!) Look at the outers (or do the outters first, but you'll need to check it all at some point) and check them for play using almost the same method you used for the inners.
 
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you CAN move the tires when both are off the ground, unless your steering wheel is locked. Also search for my rack guide replacement thread on Yotatech or TTORA (actually I might re-post it here.. That's something to look into while you are inspecting your Inner TRE's


EDIT: Well the easiest way will be to pull the boots off the Inners, and have someone move the wheel from side to side (with the truck on the ground) and check. Put your finger in the ball-socket area (it will make sense on the inner when you see it) does it feel solid, or does it move? Next check where the inner actually screws into the rack, does that have any play? Put your fingers there too (carefully!) Then look at the cylinder where it goes into the rack, does that move up and down? That would indicate a loose rack guide.

Then does the rack itself move? That would mean you need new rack bushings. Then if that all checks out (both sides!) Look at the outers (or do the outters first, but you'll need to check it all at some point) and check them for play using almost the same method you used for the inners.


I read your write up and if the Tie rods seem to check out OK, here I go with the tack weld. thanks for the EXCELLENT write up.
 
When I removed the rack guide, the grease actually looked like it had dried out.
It almost looked like graphite? Is there any way to lube the rack ends?
 
Does anyone know if this is normal? The shaft that enters the top of the rack seems to turn just a little before the rack moves. There does NOT seem to be any play in the steering shaft or the u-joint at the firewall. It all seems solid. The shaft is turning BEFORE the rack moves. HELP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I don't know if thats normal, I'll have to go look at my truck in the light. could be a sign of your rack starting to give it up. Was it leaking before?
 
I don't know if thats normal, I'll have to go look at my truck in the light. could be a sign of your rack starting to give it up. Was it leaking before?

The rack is not leaking and the front end was aligned two weeks ago because of the wandering problem. I hate to keep throwing money at it. Someone else suggested the rear springs may be worn out?
 
Here is the thread that cured my problem:

Diagnose and Fix Steering Play/Rattle - TTORA Forum

I performed this on my 3RD gen and it completely eliminated the clunk in the wheel and improved the sloppy steering by 90%. There is still a little wandering in the front end at highway speeds, but it is noticeably better. I guess a little wander is normal for 200K miles ?
 
Here is the thread that cured my problem:

Diagnose and Fix Steering Play/Rattle - TTORA Forum

I performed this on my 3RD gen and it completely eliminated the clunk in the wheel and improved the sloppy steering by 90%. There is still a little wandering in the front end at highway speeds, but it is noticeably better. I guess a little wander is normal for 200K miles ?

the tack weld did it, huh? Good to hear...time to pull out my steering column haha
 

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