WarnerD9's Build thread

WarnerD9

New member
I owe many others from the forum credit as I have drawn from them heavily. I am late in putting this together but hopefully someone else can get something out of it. My goal in building this rig was to create an Overland oriented/rock crawling capable rig to take the whole family wherever I felt like going while also serving as my daily driver. I also wanted to build it to where everything serves a purpose, is fully functional, and doesn't come across as a McGuyver stunt.

I'll go through and go over the basics. If you have questions on anything let me know and I'll try to provide great answers or helpful info.

I had and sold this....

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http://youtu.be/wkEKZSH5aY8
http://youtu.be/lqwZa8ueaaE
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http://youtu.be/3GZCCv6ijLc

First broken Birfield join to replace on a wheeling trip
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First taste of expedition style travel and appreciation of a spacious enclosed vehicle.

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Then the T4R started like this...

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Then it started turning into this...

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Front End

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- Shrockworks front bumper with custom recovery points http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CM-Hoist-Ring-4R986?Pid=search 5k rating available but I have put these to the test and am totally comfortable with them.
- Rigid 10" E-series and dualies with amber covers
- LED replacement turn signals http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...h-brightness-25in-round-led-marker-lamp/1085/ I can't recall who mentioned this site but credit is due on this one, thank you whoever you are. The Shrockworks ones only lasted a few months.
- Warn 9.5XP with wireless remote and interior switch (more later)
- Custom mounted CB antenna
- Gobi Stealth roof rack
- Rigid 20" and (2) 6" E-Series bars on the rack
- Dent in the IFS skid plate was courtesy of a large boulder I slid into in Moab in the snow.
- Rigid A-Series mounted to mirrors

Driver's Side

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- Gobi Hi-Lift mounts
- Rigid Dualies mounted in the "o" of the Gobi inscription for the rack mounts.
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- Rigid A-Series on lower quarter panels powered in conjunction with mirror lights
 
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Rear End

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- Rear bumper built and designed with a couple FJC friends, same recovery points as front bumper, made mostly out of 3/8" angle and 3/8" sheet. May be for sale mid August. CBI is going to build me a rear bumper/spare tire carrier.
- Gobi Ladder
- Modified exhaust with Magnaflow high performance muffler and custom pipe to exit.
- Aux fuel tank to be installed with new rear bumper b CBI

Passenger Side

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- ARB Awning - I wanted a tight mount that wouldn't add to height or width. I picked up some Allen bolts from a local hardware store. Things lined up pretty well on their own. I measured man, many times and made it happen. So far the rack shows no negative signs and it seems to be a solid mount. However the bolts aren't looking too good and need to be treated. I did take measures to make sure that the rack wouldn't rust, but I should have done the same with the bolts. I would recommend this set up if you're considering it. Just prep for rust and be very precise in drilling your holes.
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- (minor) Rock Rash (lower front passenger door) - I'm looking for a more competent spotter... I had a set of sliders on but it wasn't enough.

Tires/Wheels

- BFG KM2 285/75/17 - pros - sticky, great looking, ware evenly. Cons - loud, ware quickly, $$$$$$. I did slice a sidewall, did some McGuyver repair and made it home from the last 3/4 of Hole In The Rock Trail. Quickly remembered why I bought tire warranties.
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- SCS Stealth 6 in gunmetal matte
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That's nice! What made you do the different/custom recovery points rather than the Shrockworks ones?
 
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Tony, great looking rig you got there! Nice Job. Love the dually lights mounted through the Gobi rack brackets, ingenuous!

I'd love to know more about your rear bumper; it appears a custom job? What's with the rope? Is it to stop the d-rings from rattling, if so, are they permanently on there?

Again, nice setup you've got there!
 

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That's nice! What made you do the different/custom recovery points rather than the Shrockworks ones?

I've had too many D Ring rattle off on he trail or get stolen. I wanted something permanent. They used to put something similar to this on the SafariGard bumpers for Defender 90s. I like them better.
 
Tony, great looking rig you got there! Nice Job. Love the dually lights mounted through the Gobi rack brackets, ingenuous!

I'd love to know more about your rear bumper; it appears a custom job? What's with the rope? Is it to stop the d-rings from rattling, if so, are they permanently on there?

Again, nice setup you've got there!

Thanks for noticing! I was quite proud of at my self... I figured that Gobi made them that way for a reason...

Yes it's custom... Rattling wasn't such a problem, more so to keep them from hanging below the bumper and dragging on the rocks. I did weld them on the inside for peace of mind.

Thank you very much for the compliment...
 
Suspension

I have gone through several set ups trying to dial in clearance, travel, and ride quality. First I went with Old Man Emu because I had 95,000 miles of bliss using a similar set up on my FJC. I tried the medium heavy and the heavy but wasn't satisfied. I liked the medium heavy but it didn't offer enough lift/clearance/travel. The HD wasn't really a suspension, it was more like rigid stilts. I've evolved to Total Chaos upper control arms with Icon extended travel set up in the front and the Metal Tech Long Travel kit in the rear with resivor shocks and I love it. I had the non resivor shocks and they were great except when the rig was loaded or if you were pushing through rough terrain. The AllPro control arms work but are barely short enough for what I need. I plan on updating to the HD MetalTech Long Travel Coils and a true long travel set up like the Orange MetalTech 4Runner but I need to figure out what to do with the KDSS first. There is also a Toytec rear panhard rod.

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Don't mind the crushed trailer wiring hook up, it will be replaced soon...
 
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I've been waiting for this build thread ever since I saw your avatar with that crazy flex in the back!

Clarification on your rear set-up:
1) Which coils are you running?
2) What did you mean by the All-Pro rear LCA being just "short" enough? Do you mean to limit travel in order to keep the coil in place?

Is that your KDSS piston I see tucked up under there? Are you running no sway bar with this setup?

4Runner looks awesome dude, thanks for sharing it with us.
 
I've been waiting for this build thread ever since I saw your avatar with that crazy flex in the back!

Clarification on your rear set-up:
1) Which coils are you running?
2) What did you mean by the All-Pro rear LCA being just "short" enough? Do you mean to limit travel in order to keep the coil in place?

Is that your KDSS piston I see tucked up under there? Are you running no sway bar with this setup?

4Runner looks awesome dude, thanks for sharing it with us.

1) I am running the normal MetalTech long travel coils
2) The LCA's are adjustable and they are synched down all the way vs. backed all the way out. Otherwise the axle panhard bar mount would hit against the frame, giving less than 1" of upward travel on the passenger side. I would do the MetalTech LCA's if I started over.

Yes the Piston is stuck up there, no sway bar in the rear even though it thinks its working. But the sway bar in front works fine.
 
1) I am running the normal MetalTech long travel coils
2) The LCA's are adjustable and they are synched down all the way vs. backed all the way out. Otherwise the axle panhard bar mount would hit against the frame, giving less than 1" of upward travel on the passenger side. I would do the MetalTech LCA's if I started over.

Yes the Piston is stuck up there, no sway bar in the rear even though it thinks its working. But the sway bar in front works fine.

Cool! Thanks for the clarification, I 1) Didn't realize MT had both medium duty and heavy duty coils and 2) Didn't realize All-Pro's LCAs were adjustable.
 
What kind of trimming have you done to run the 285/75/17 KM2s? I have been thinking real hard about getting a set of those.
 
What kind of trimming have you done to run the 285/75/17 KM2s? I have been thinking real hard about getting a set of those.

A lot of trimming...

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I can't seem to eliminate all rubbing... But I do like having the clearance and the stance.

The KM2's are crazy expensive right now. I'd go with a cooper STT. I couldn't get the Hankooks to ware evenly.
 
Interior/switches

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- I'm running an IBS battery monitoring system
- I've shifted around some factory switches to run my Rigids (fog lamps) and my side roof, mirror and rear quarter panel lights.
- I am also running a scan gauge to monitor fuel usage, power usage, etc. not bad for $60

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Bottom up
- 20" and (2) 6" Rigid switches replace dummy switches that should keep the seats warm
- Icon billet shifter knobs
- RAM mount for iPad Mini to serve as GPS thanks to GAIA GPS and a DUAL GPS Locator
- (OTRATTW switches) Top row has ARB twin air compressor, as well as front and rear locker. (In order to get the locker to run in 2WD, high and low range, I activate the factory, ARB, and an additional switch on the lower panel. Kind of a pain but nice to able to run the lockers in any drive mode. Great for sand, and immature driving/sliding)
- Bottom row starts with an activation switch for the next one, the winch in and out, requires SLEE regulator from FJ80
- Fuel pump switch powers some wire that I have ran for the amazing aux fuel/transfer tank that will one day be installed.
- ARB fridge freezer switch allows me to turn the fridge on and off without touching the fridge.
- The next switch is the third switch to enable the rear locker
- The set up had six slots, I only needed five. I'll figure something out some day. I'm putti together a solar panel set up for the roof and this may come into play if I ever get around to finishing it.

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- ARB fridge freezer
- 10lb power tank

Under the Hood/Electrical

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- ARB twin air compressor with braided stainless lines
- TRD cold air intake
- 2nd Battery, Optima Blue Top, runs everything but winch and 4Runner

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- Relays, Relays, relays... A simple piece of strap metal, a few bends and holes drilled and wallah...
- BUS port (blue ocean?) can't remember, got it from sierraexpeditions
- Warn wireless winch remote computer/receiver/relay. Currently creating a draw on the battery, needs to be resolved when I find some time when I can't think of something I'd rather do...
 
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Suspension

I have gone through several set ups trying to dial in clearance, travel, and ride quality. First I went with Old Man Emu because I had 95,000 miles of bliss using a similar set up on my FJC. I tried the medium heavy and the heavy but wasn't satisfied. I liked the medium heavy but it didn't offer enough lift/clearance/travel. The HD wasn't really a suspension, it was more like rigid stilts. I've evolved to Total Chaos upper control arms with Icon extended travel set up in the front and the Metal Tech Long Travel kit in the rear with resivor shocks and I love it. I had the non resivor shocks and they were great except when the rig was loaded or if you were pushing through rough terrain. The AllPro control arms work but are barely short enough for what I need. I plan on updating to the HD MetalTech Long Travel Coils and a true long travel set up like the Orange MetalTech 4Runner but I need to figure out what to do with the KDSS first. There is also a Toytec rear panhard rod.

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Don't mind the crushed trailer wiring hook up, it will be replaced soon...

Truck looks good. Are you running Metal Tech long travel kit in the rear? And how do you like it. I have the MT long travel kit on my I love the down travel of the wheel.
 
Let me answer your question with pictures...

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The massive aluminum bump stops give away that its a MetalTech setup. Love it and would recommend it to anyone...
 
^I have the same setup other then I think you have shocks with reservoir and I just have shocks. Unless it is something different I saw mounted to your frame in rear. I knew it travels down very long, but I could not find a spot to stretch it out that long. All I go is this:
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I love the setup too, the only thing my rear shocks, were squeaking and I send them back to Icon. They said the seal wasn't right, so they replace it and i'm waiting for them to get back. Do you think OEM lower control arms in rear limit the travel or they have nothing to do with it? I'm newbie in this and always try to understand why things are done they way they are.
 
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I think its good to have the adjustability for the sake of being able to align the truck properly. The travel only comes into play when you talk about the joints. The joints allow for greater articulation.
 
^I have the same setup other then I think you have shocks with reservoir and I just have shocks. Unless it is something different I saw mounted to your frame in rear. I knew it travels down very long, but I could not find a spot to stretch it out that long. All I go is this:


Remember Alex he isn't running a rear sway bar either
 

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