Was this powdercoat job (CBI bumper) bad or is PC super weak against salt corrosion?

[norwal42]

Rear bumper from CBI started showing little corrosion marks within a few months. It was winter in MN, so definitely had salt exposure, but I washed it multiple times through winter. Spots were not in random places, and not just in places of highest salt exposure - in a few places, they corresponded exactly with spots where metal had been welded on the opposite face. A year later, more corrosion starting to show in spots I thought PC was supposed to be tougher than paint, best you can get, etc. Was it a bad PC job, or is PC particularly prone to salt corrosion?

I've got a Hyundai Elantra that's seen 12 winters in the midwest and had far fewer washes on a average through the winter, and not a spot of rust. Can it really be such a big corrosion-resilience difference between a 12 year old clear coat vs PC finish?

CBI refunded me the cost of powder-coating, so I don't need to justify anything, I'm just trying to figure out whether I can trust powder-coating in general to be tougher than this, or not. I'm looking for context so I can decide how to finish my front bumper when I get it.

If PC can't hold up to salt a fraction as well as regular automotive paint/clear coat, then it's going to be a PITA to keep up over the years. If I just got a bad prep job under my PC (or whatever), then I like what I've heard about the toughness of PC, and would consider redoing both bumpers at once at a different PC shop.

Thanks in advance for any advice or experience you might have to help me assess my experience with this PC corrosion.

 

[Bob43]

that would be a lousy powder coating !
I would request it be redone or replaced

 

[catrains]

looks like the washers plating is reacting with the powder coat.

remove the washer and coat with some zinc galv paint. then cover with a black to have it all match.

 

[reelamin]

Looks to me like your getting bleed over from those bolts and washers, and not so much a problem with the powder coating. They refunded you and that sounds to me like they really stepped up for their product. This happens all the time in Marine/Salt Water (roads are worse for salt percentage) environments especially when using dissimilar metals. If you really want to stop it quality stainless hardware...yes there are different grades of SS. Anti Seize is important as SS can gall.

 

[LandCruiser]

You have salt AIDS, sorry.

Move someplace else.

 

[BrianSD_42]

The good news is it appears to be worst on that square where the washers are coming into contact.

Remove the washers temporality
Tape off around the area
Sand that square lightly, don't go down to the metal
Primer over the PC, paint over the primer
Should be very easy to match black and it looks to be only a few inches.
Reinstall with rubber or poly washers

 

[ddnww]

Mix of all three: powder coat, salt, washers. imo

 

[wadle5]

I don't know I have had my bumper for now almost 4 years in Iowa and haven't had any corrosion issues, and it is my daily rain, snow, mud, or shine. Sorry for issue, but glad to hear CBI is taking care of you.

 

[norwal42]

Thanks for feedback everyone. Good tips on hardware treatment, PC resurfacing/repair, etc.

Yeah, I'm glad that CBI refunded me the cost, but (if I can't resurface/repair satisfactorily) I'll have to eat the cost of blasting the old stuff off before putting a new quality powder coat on.

The custom shop I had powder coat my new front bumper measured the CBI rear bumper powder coat with a paint gauge, and measured it down to 1.5 mil in some places, including where the worst corrosion shows. He said he sprays 3-6 mil minimum to ensure moisture protection - plus a heavy duty primer underneath. If I had known what I was getting, I would've ordered it bare metal and paid more for the higher quality PC in the first place. Cost was $200 for the rear bumper PC from CBI. $400+ for my front bumper at Adrenaline Customs here in MN. Sounds like it'll be near the same $400+ for rear bumper coat (and another hit for the swing-out arm separately - we'll see what I can negotiate on that), plus whatever it takes to blast off the old stuff - estimated $50-$200, depending how long it takes. :/ Gotta pay to play, I guess.

Anyone got ideas for alternative/cheaper powder coat stripping options? Or other quality powder coaters in the Twin Cities area?

 

[MN4runnerman]

[MENTION=100099]norwal42[/MENTION] There's SE Custom powdercoating in Savage, MN. They do a pretty good job. I had them do some wheels for me a couple years ago. http://powdercoatingrims.org

 

[JPOVS]

I had some rocksliders I bought with powder coating and they started rusting in 1.5 months. At 5 months old the powder paint was peeling off underneath. I was refunded for the powder coating by the manufacturer, so that was good.
I didn't want to deal with rust again so I chose to have them Line-X'ed. When I hit a rock with the rock sliders Ill touch it up then.
The shop I chose was in Saint Cloud, it was $225 sand blasted and Line-X'ed. I contacted the Vadnais Heights dealer and they were more than double the price.
The Line-X looks great and when I get my Gobi (next group buy) that too will be sandblasted and Line-X'ed. Same goes for when I get bumpers too. I don't have much respect for powder coating in MN. Gravel roads will chip that up and salt will do the rest.
I had Ford factory running boards on my F150 and those got replaced under warranty for rust after 2 years of use and the replacements rusted again in another 2-3 years, out of warranty then.
Good luck!