Water/Bubbles in Oil : Advice Please

Hokie-Pokie VT

New member
Fellow 3rd Genners,

As I rolled over 200k back in December, I went to change the oil in my 02 SR5 and drained a SUBSTANTIAL amount of water out with the oil, see the bubbles in the first pic. For reference, I run synthetic blend oil and change it every 5k. My immediate first thought was head gasket. I took the truck to the local dealer, who actually do decent work, and they pressurized the system and let it sit overnight. Test concluded with them saying that there was NO pressure loss whatsoever. Then I had them do the valve covers while it was there.

Fast forward to March, I put cheap oil back into the vehicle in December and decided to run it for 1k and then drain the oil for reinspection. There was still some bubbles in the oil, but not near as much. See Pic 2.

So my next though is to do the PCV valve, but I would love to hear some other suggestions.

Other notes: I have not noticed any external coolant leaks. I also have not noticed the distinctive "sweet smell" of burning coolant. Coolant level has remained consistent in the reservoir. No other oil leaks have been noted since the VCG.

Cheers!

Oil change at 200K
20190121_120140 by John Smith, on Flickr
Oil after approx 1K
IMG_20190314_101307_01 by John Smith, on Flickr
 
Register to hide this ad
Looks rather normal to me, meaning doesn't look like water. Many very short trips can add moisture to oil that doesn't have time to evaporate but I don't really see that here.

Now the bubbles could be caused by an overfilling of oil. That causes excess splashing from the crank, might check vehicle is level when adding oil up to mark.

I think it's OK. :cowboy:
 
Last edited:
Let the oil sit a few days and then slowly pour it out.

The the underside of your oil fill cap clean or full of pudding?

6qt of oil. No more no less at an oil change.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Even if this water comes from a benign source won't it wreck any bearings it comes in contact with?
 
So to answer some stuff above:
Regular oil levels, perfectly between the dots on the dipstick. I usually put in a bit less than 5.5qts. Hadn't noticed an increase in the level on the dipstick.The oil cap on the engine is pretty dirty, so Ill need to clean it and re-check it after a while.

I do primarily short stints, I live in a pretty small town that consists of drives less than 15 minutes. However i usually let it warm up a bit and on the really cold days I let it warm up to at least above the line on the temp gauge.
 
FWIW, oil takes quite a bit longer to warm up than the coolant. On cars that Ive had with oil temp gauge, it can sometimes take as much as 10-15 minutes of normal driving to even get the oil temp up to 130*F. It only takes the coolant about 5 minutes to reach full operating temp. I don't think idling the car is really is really going to do much for burning off condensation in the crank case. Not sure if that's causing what you're seeing or if what you're seeing is even really any issue though.
 
So to answer some stuff above:

Regular oil levels, perfectly between the dots on the dipstick. I usually put in a bit less than 5.5qts. Hadn't noticed an increase in the level on the dipstick.The oil cap on the engine is pretty dirty, so Ill need to clean it and re-check it after a while.



I do primarily short stints, I live in a pretty small town that consists of drives less than 15 minutes. However i usually let it warm up a bit and on the really cold days I let it warm up to at least above the line on the temp gauge.



Once a week you should try and drive it 20-40 miles. If it looks like pudding under the oil cap it’s your oil not getting hot enough to get rid of the moisture.

It is worth making sure your PCV system is operating. No cracked or collapsed hoses and a good grommet in the valve cover and a PCV valve that rattles when you shake it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Bubbles in the oil isn't a sign of water/coolant as far as I know.

If you were getting significant mixing, it would look more like this:

Antifreeze-In-Oil-584x381.jpg


-Charlie
 
If your oil didn't look something like phatty"s at 200K It's probably not anything serious. Next time you drain your oil pour some on a cookie sheet that you've heated in oven nice and hot. 300 deg, if it pops and snaps, you got water. wherefrom, keep looking.
 
I agree that it's not a head gasket leak, it looks more like a chocolate milkshake than a frothy cup of joe. Remember, water is heavier than oil and will sink to the bottom, not float on the surface.

Have you tried a different brand of oil? I know you said you put some cheap stuff in there, perhaps try a different brand. These 4Runners are not picky on oil brands.

I also agree on the sentiments on replacing the PCV valve, grommet and a hose. Also check/replace the breather hose on the backside of the driver's side valve cover that goes to the intake. If either of these is clogged the moisture cannot vent out of the oil. All those parts will not cost more than $10.
 
I agree that it's not a head gasket leak, it looks more like a chocolate milkshake than a frothy cup of joe. Remember, water is heavier than oil and will sink to the bottom, not float on the surface.

Have you tried a different brand of oil? I know you said you put some cheap stuff in there, perhaps try a different brand. These 4Runners are not picky on oil brands.

I also agree on the sentiments on replacing the PCV valve, grommet and a hose. Also check/replace the breather hose on the backside of the driver's side valve cover that goes to the intake. If either of these is clogged the moisture cannot vent out of the oil. All those parts will not cost more than $10.

How do you replace the one on the back of the valve cover? Mine is leaking a little bit of oil out of there and I can twist it from side to side. I tried looking up the part number but couldnt find that valve/vent on any diagrams.
 
I'd replace your pcv, hose and grommet...would've been a great thing to do with the valve covers off as that grommet will be petrified and tough to get out without it breaking off and going into the valve cover vent...and just because the pcv rattles doesn'tmean it works right...could have a broken spring and still rattle...that oil looks fine though...a good run down the highway once a week would eliminate that left over condensation.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
How do you replace the one on the back of the valve cover? Mine is leaking a little bit of oil out of there and I can twist it from side to side. I tried looking up the part number but couldnt find that valve/vent on any diagrams.

I couldn't find the part number either. I went with the same ID silicon hose, since there needs to be a bit of flex in it (fuel hose from the part store won't work).
 
Much thanks for everyone's advice. I will get the old girl up to speed a little more often. Its hard to do on a busy grad student schedule while living in a small college town, but It will be a good test to run and see what comes out in 5k miles.

The oil I just put in is Penzoil Max Life. So its decent quality oil. I will probably end up doing the PCV just bc its cheap parts and easy to do.

Cheers!:cheers:
 
Until the aged, brittle grommet breaks in half and falls inside of your valve cover to where you can't retrieve. Next up, valve cover gasket replacement.
Long skinny needle nose pliers work. There is an internal shield, so the parts don't land on the cams/valves.

-Charlie
 
Let the oil sit a few days and then slowly pour it out.

The the underside of your oil fill cap clean or full of pudding?

6qt of oil. No more no less at an oil change.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Mine takes 6.4 qt every time. Standard size filter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,105
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top