Waxing the BLACK 4Runner
- Thread starter AlexJet
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Boaz
New member
I use the liquid NXT wax. I love how easy it buffs off. I usually start with some cleaner wax like zymol. If the paint is really bad, I will clay bar it first, then use cleaner wax, then use the NXT liquid wax.
Come to think of it, I am a little over due for a wax job on the runner...!
Come to think of it, I am a little over due for a wax job on the runner...!
iFORCE
New member
AlexJet said:
I usually apply and buff the first layer and leave it for roughly 24hours before I apply the second coat. It depends on how I feel and how lazy I am, but below are the routes I go with. Make sure there's enough time in between waxes for it to cure(harden). I do this twice a year. Once before winter.. and once after winter.
option 1:
nxt-buff-12hours...
nxt-buff-12hours...
canuba-buff
otpion 2:
nxt-buff-24hours
canuba-buff
momo.75
Registered User
AlexJet said:
Here is something you might want to try.
I use a different brand of way, but it should work for these brands. After I do all my claying and polishing I apply the wax like this. I will appy wax to the entire truck, let it sit for about 3 hours, then apply another coat directly onto the firt coat without polishing it off. I will usually wait another three hours then put a third coat on top of the first two then, polish it all off. I have even done it with another coat, but was completely worn out afterwards. ....Anyway, what this does is to help blend the layers of wax together, and leaves the finish looking wet and almost like ou could stick your hand in the paint. if you don't have a garage, this method would not be a good idea.
I guess what it comes down to is how much time you want to spend on it. Also, how anal you might be about your paint. Most people are just fine with one coat and wouldn't be able to tell the difference..........but then again, some people are comfortable driving through a car wash with brushes, where that make me cringe...
what does everyone use as a top coat?
I've been layering as follows:
bottom: Meguiars cleaner wax
middle: Mothers glaze (part 2 of a 3 step Mothers kit)
top: Turtle Wax
re the turtle wax.. obviously it kills the glaze a bit.. but I've just gotten so used to this brand. If anybody can indicate a better protector wax, let me know!
I've been layering as follows:
bottom: Meguiars cleaner wax
middle: Mothers glaze (part 2 of a 3 step Mothers kit)
top: Turtle Wax
re the turtle wax.. obviously it kills the glaze a bit.. but I've just gotten so used to this brand. If anybody can indicate a better protector wax, let me know!
Last edited:
sharp4runr
New member
When you rub your hand over the spots, can you feel them? If so doing a claybar would probably remove them.
after doing a claybar, your truck so be smoother than a baby's bottom.
Also as far as I know, if the NXT is a synthetic wax. Also the liquid form of the Gold Class has added synthetic components to keep it liquid while the paste is how carnuba is in its natural state.
oh yeah, I use the gold class in paste form and I'd recommend it.
after doing a claybar, your truck so be smoother than a baby's bottom.
Also as far as I know, if the NXT is a synthetic wax. Also the liquid form of the Gold Class has added synthetic components to keep it liquid while the paste is how carnuba is in its natural state.
oh yeah, I use the gold class in paste form and I'd recommend it.
sharp4runr said:
I always though Gold Class had synthetics in it, no matter if it was in paste or liquid.
As for waxes, NXT does a good job of hiding scratches and is easy to work with. I can wax my wife's Protege5 in under 30 minutes and it looks great. The one thing about NXT is that it will remove any thing you put it on top of. For instance, if you put down a layer of P21S, and then layered it with NXT, you just wasted the P21S. NXT is partially a cleaner wax, so you want it to be your base coat.
Depending on the climate you are in, Megs #26 is a great base wax. It has a mild cleaner in it, but leaves a great shine. Usually, when I do this, I top it with some P21S for that natural wax depth. Polishes depend on what you are using. I have a Megs DA and use the DA polish on it with pretty good results.
If you need a real hardcore wax to protect your rig in a harsh enviroment, try Megs #16. This is the armor of waxes and will last a long time. It's a bitch to work with, but worth it if you need something that's going to stand up to some rough stuff.
check out autopia car care forums for the proper way to wax. The key is preparation. The surface to be waxed must be cleaned properly. I don't mean just use the "dawn" dish washing method. There's the clay bar, the polish, etc. It's so complicated that I stopped waxing after I sold the M3. The 4Runner is so much easier to maintain. Just a quick trip to the car wash and I'm done. It's too cold to really wax properly here. Maybe in the summer, I give it the full treatment.
I like the Klasse twins for the cleaner / wax method.
I like the Klasse twins for the cleaner / wax method.
RaysMD said:
Hey I hear ya bro! I have to agree with you. The whole process becomes downright tedious.
For all you other guys...as Ray mentioned...the preparation is KEY. Without prep you will never get the best results. I also recommend the Klasse AIO and SG. These two products used together are ridiculous. The AIO is also the easiest product to apply and remove. The easiest I have EVER used. No wait time. PLUS its an acrylic sealant so it is even better for protection. This stuff is second only to Zaino in my book...but I would much rather use this because of time issues.
trd_style
New member
sharp4runr said:
okay. i washed my car and waxed it with Gold Class paste. i guess i'm being a noob but where could i get the claybar? do i actually use a clay?! or is there a special type of clay i could use? i have a different type of liquid wax not sure if it'll work but i'll test it out. would it be okay if i already use the Gold Class paste wax and then i'll do ANOTHER wax over it?
claying will remove the wax. you could apply another layer of wax over the layer already there.trd_style said:
as for where to get a clay bar, go to your local auto parts store and they should have some. most important thing with a clay bar is to keep the surface lubricated.
as for brands, there is meguiars, mothers, clay magic. i use mothers as its the easiest to find, but is about $20 for the kit.
i personally cut up the bar, and use the pieces at a time. get more uses out of the bar this way, i think..
