Weird Fuel Gauge Problem

Juan_RKFD

New member
I took my T4R to the car wash the other day. Now I have a problem that the fuel gauge is out of whack. It shows between full and 3/4 full always. If I turn on my fog lights the gauge goes down to empty and stays there.

I checked the wires to the fog lights and don't seem to have a problem. They are sealed with electrical tape. Everything worked fine before the car wash. I guess that's what I get for trying to have a clean 4Runner.

Any suggestions out there?

Thanks
 
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Very interesting.

Mine's a '99 limited as well, and I've had less than wonderful experiences with car washes recently. Turns out I have a leak that allows pressurized water to get into the cabin and drip directly on to the ECM behind the glovebox. Check yours out.
 
my buddy had a 2wd 99 the gas gauge was always wrong. he had to replace the sending unit in the tank and the receiving unit in the dash. not cheap, he said its a known problem. the first ive heard of it though.
 
I have the same problem on my 99. I have been told that it is a sending unit problem and you must take it to toyota to fix. That, ofcourse, comes with a hefty price tag. I just watch my mileage, and stopped paying attention to the gauge. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
 
The sending and gauge malfunctions are relatively common (but not enough to warrrant a TSB?), but the thing with the fog lights adds a little wacky twist. Voltage is going where it shouldn't, or somehow the gauge is losing power when the fogs turn on.
 
Qyota said:
The sending and gauge malfunctions are relatively common (but not enough to warrrant a TSB?), but the thing with the fog lights adds a little wacky twist. Voltage is going where it shouldn't, or somehow the gauge is losing power when the fogs turn on.

Well that's what is weird. the fuel gauge was working just fine until I washed the truck and turned on the fog lights. Once it warms up here I will do a more thorough look at the wiring.
 
Did you ever find a solution to this? I have the exact same problem:

Drove in the rain yesterday. Now whenever I turn the fog lights on the fuel gauge immediately goes to empty and the fuel light starts blinking. If I turn the car off and restart it the fuel gauge works fine. But as soon as I turn the fogs on, it dies immediately.

This is really strange as I can't see what relation the fog lights have to the fuel gauge. Everything else seems to work fine...
 
I think I answered my own question:

Swapped the wires on the fogs and that seemed to fixed the problem.

My 99 4R has a pink and a white/black wire running to the OEM fog connector. I incorrectly assumed the white was hot when in fact it is the pink wire that is hot.

So the wiring should go PIAA white to OEM pink & PIAA black to OEM white/black stripe.

Perhaps this will help someone else out there.
 
You could start by Changing the sendin unit inside the tank... i found one at autoparts warehouse, $73.00 you only need to replace that, thats where im going to start with mine. cause mine is going nuts too mine is '99 and yes its a commun problem with these cars... goog luck!.
 
My gauge went south last winter, left me on the side of the road showing either 1/4 or between 1/2 and 1/4 tank. I now use the trip odometer religiously. I always tank up around 250 to 300 miles.
 
So now Im having this problem too. Installed fogs with a relay and OEM switch. Now my gas gauge goes down when i turn them on. Gauge runs normally wgen the lighrs are off. Checked my wiring and its all solid. No idea why its messed up now
 
What voltages do you get at the battery with fogs on and off, engine running and not? Also, where exactly did you source the 12V+ for the fogs--to relay contact side straight from battery or from somewhere else? If it's not straight from the battery (with an in-line fuse), that's the first fix I'd try.
 
I think we should get some petitions going. The gauge on my '99 is all out of whack too. It will always read full when completely full but will never go before right above half a tank. I've been using my trip. for the past 6 or so months now. Very annoying.
 
What voltages do you get at the battery with fogs on and off, engine running and not? Also, where exactly did you source the 12V+ for the fogs--to relay contact side straight from battery or from somewhere else? If it's not straight from the battery (with an in-line fuse), that's the first fix I'd try.

Yup straight to the Battery, no issues there. Just an FYI, I used to be a MECP certified master installer back in the day. No stranger to car electronics, so this one is a bit strange. Truck also has a new Battery and alternator as well.
 
Yup straight to the Battery, no issues there. Just an FYI, I used to be a MECP certified master installer back in the day. No stranger to car electronics, so this one is a bit strange. Truck also has a new Battery and alternator as well.

Well, there goes suspects #2 and #3. So have you checked those voltages? New alts can still have bad connections or other issues. Otherwise, I can only think it will end up being a loose/poor ground or bad battery cables/connections--the causes of 90% of weird unexplained electrical gremlins. The ground by the diagnostic plug gets credit for much weirdness.
 
I was reading this and noticed it seems like you are all 1999 and 2000 models.

There has been an factory updated circuit plate for the instrument cluster and calibration procedure released to remedy these issues on these specific years.

I'll update this with pictures and part numbers soon but wanted to get this to you guys before you dove into anything.

ELECTRICAL
EL010-00

Title:
FUEL GAUGE INACCURACY

Models:
'99 - '00 4Runner

August 4, 2000

Introduction
Some owners of 1999 and 2000 model year 4Runner vehicles may complain of fuel gauge operation problems. These complaints may include:

^ The gauge reading will gradually change while driving or will show a different reading after cycling the ignition key "OFF" and then "ON".

^ The gauge will come off of "FULL" quickly.

^ The perception that the fuel tank capacity is less than it should be, or differs from the capacity stated in sales literature.

To improve these concerns, a new Circuit Plate No. 3, fuel sender gauge and suction tube assemblies have been developed.

Applicable Vehicles

^ 1999 - 2000 model year 4Runner vehicles built between the VINs listed in this bulletin.

IMPORTANT NOTE:
^ Some 1999 vehicles have had the updated Circuit Plate No. 3 installed during production. Please see the Affected VIN Ranges section.

^ Refer to the specified Repair Procedure in the Affected VIN Ranges before ordering ANY parts.



Warranty Information

Applicable Warranty*:
This repair is covered under the Toyota Basic Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 36 months or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle's in-service date.

* Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem based upon a customer's specific complaint.


Parts Information


*IMPORTANT NOTE:
Replacement of the No. 3 Circuit Plate will cause the odometer to be reset to zero. These parts must be ordered directly from the vendor. To order a part with the original vehicle mileage restored, please reference P.A.N.T. Bulletin 00-01.


Affected VIN Ranges

Please refer to the illustrated VIN ranges to determine the appropriate action.

Repair Procedure

1. Replace Combination Plate No. 3.

A. Verify that the replacement circuit board has been ordered with the correct vehicle mileage for that vehicle. See important note.

B. Remove the combination meter assembly.


C. Remove Circuit Board No. 3.

D. Replace the circuit board with the new part.

E. Reassemble the combination meter assembly.

F. Remove the fuel tank.

NOTE:
When removing a tank that is not empty, verify that the tank is secured to the support device, to prevent fuel spillage.

2. Replace Fuel Sender and Suction Tube Assemblies.



A. Remove the suction tube and fuel sender assembly.

B. Remove the fuel pump assembly.

NOTE:
This part will be reused.



C. Install the new fuel sender onto the new suction tube assembly. Align the hole of the fuel sender mounting bracket with the fuel pump bracket hole. Make sure that the bracket of the new fuel sender is butted up to the bottom of the original sender mounting bracket. Tighten the 5 mm screw.

Torque: 1.8 - 2.2 Nm.

D. Reinstall the old fuel pump into the new bracket assembly.

E. Feed the wire harness between the fuel pump bracket and the fuel pipe, and connect the white connector.

F. Install the new assembly into the tank.

G. Perform the Fuel Gauge Calibration Procedure (See TSB EL010-99, dated December 24, 1999).

H. Verify correct gauge operation.
 

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