Welded on rack..Hmmmm...

[MT Tatman]

So, I welded this new roof rack that I made, onto the truck. I did notice aprox. 4" of the seam sealer has cracked, under the rain gutter at the rear. Do you think that just re-sealing that 4" area will do, or will I need to re-seal the whole length? I don't want it to re-open. I think the project worked out great, aside from the seal issue. I may put the Hi-Lift up there as well. Mostly just wanted a place for the 2nd spare and gas cans.

 

[cometobanks]

Cool rack! I think as your spare moves up and down it spreads the base of your rack wide and narrow over and over, better shore those rain gutters up before the whole thing bounces past you on the highway! I dont think seam sealer is ur answer.

 

[jcruiser70]

did you weld it to the gutter or the actual body, I'd re-weld it, but I wouldn't count on it holding up, looks like the rack is made of mild steel and the gutters arent..... just my .02

 

[Darrie]

There is normally a fair bit of flex in the cab and the roof. Sometimes you notice this when you are in extreme positions the doors don't quite open & close as easy. So basically anything you place in that gutter will be combating constant movement.

One solution I have seen is where people run a length of steel plate on its side that sits in the full length of the gutter with the basket legs attached. The edge sitting in the gutter has a light rubber slipped over it to avoid metal on metal as such, this assembly being clamped as such to the gutter. This method spreads load weight over the full length of the gutter, and the light rubber avoids the squeeks - just like the soft door trim rubber is noiseless to door movements.

FYI - the gutter is actually a manufacturing join as such. The roof is bonded to a fold in the body. On gutterless cars that bond or fold still exists, but its just folded on the inside under the roof lining where you don't see it.

The only other solution I have seen is to run a roll cage setup that lifts the rack off the body and attaches it to the chassis below. It's a lot of steelwork and suffers its own issues with flex in the uprights, and looks ordinary.

 

[MT Tatman]

I was thinking maybe to weld the flat steel from leg to leg, and the body, lengthwise along the cab for a solid structure that should hold the weight alright. Do you think that would work?
The crack appeared when I tapped the gutter with a wood block to even it up, before welding the rack on. The steel rod does contact the whole length of the rain gutter to help spread the load. Currently the rack is only welded on the outside, to the rain gutter itself, not the truck body. Too weak?

 

[Darrie]

Just looked a bit closer & can see you already have the full length bar. Welding to the cab skin or body would be extremely difficult - steel is so thin you will just burn through it and it would offer minimal support.

There is an alternate plan to welding - one is to install a roof mounted track system and create a mount for the basket. You can raid any short luggage tracks off a wrecked vehicle as a starting point, or go for something like the Rhino Systems:Rhino Rack - Roof Racks for TOYOTA Hilux Surf 4WD 09/89 to 09/96. It does involve drilling through you roof (taking out the inside liner first on course !), and you can also replicate the track with various supports underneath. I have done a similar thing on my second generation ... I'll post pics later when home for you.

 

[MT Tatman]

Good info! Thanks. Looking forward to seeing your rack:banana:

 

[Darrie]

Heres a few pics.

For my vehicle it involved removing the roof liner, placing the blocks temporarily in place then drilling through the roof to the blocks. Then I removed them, tapped a thread into the support blocks, glueing & welded them internally between the skin and internal fold whilst bolted to the roof. To these bolts 100 series Landcruiser stainless risers (made for gutterless vehicles) were attached on a thin rubber base, with the roof rack bolting to these risers (I have six on my wagon, but 4 would suffice for a small rack).

I was nervous about doing it on my first 4 runner, but after the first time it worked trouble & leak free so I did it again on my next vehicle and moved the rack over ! Just be aware there is also internal support ribbing under the lining that you need to be aware of - so best if using this approach you take the lining out & checkout your options first.

Hope this gives you some ideas...

 

[MT Tatman]

That is great info and pics! Thanks a lot! It will be a big help for my project.

 

[Iroke17]

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