Welding cost for Rock Sliders?

Stone5_T4R

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How much is the labor for welding rock sliders on? In the market for a set so I'm trying to get a ballpark for expected cost. Thanks!
 
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dude ive been wondering the same thing... i asked around some shops but nvr got an exact estimate, just those lame "well you'll have to take it in so we can take a look then we'll give u an estimated cost".
 
It cost me a 12 pack of beer....Amberbock to be specific. It was good too. The weld came out great too!:beer:


P.S. Sorry, I know thats no help...
 
good ballpark price is $120-160 range that is what i was getting quoted before I did the pizza and beer route through a buddy
 
From the research i am collecting, you want to bolt them on as opposed to welding them, The weld is stronger than the material its bonding, and you need them to be able to break apart or something. Theizzardking know's a bit more about it i think.
 
Cost me $70 but I did all the prep. You'll want to use a sanding disc to clean the points of contact for welding, all the paint off the frame and mounting brackets for the sliders. If you do that - it'll take 15 minutes for your mechanic to weld them on (but he'll charge you an hour). Also, have him weld a spotted bead, like perforations, so that if you really nail it the welds will break instead of ripping a hole in your frame rail.
 
From the research i am collecting, you want to bolt them on as opposed to welding them, The weld is stronger than the material its bonding, and you need them to be able to break apart or something. Theizzardking know's a bit more about it i think.


I dunno about this... I for one would def. not want a 66" piece of steel flying into my rocker panel at all. Thats why you weld them on. So they don't give. It's there to keep things away from your rocker panel. Hmm... Hope he posts up, I'd like to hear his ideas...
 
Yeah, welding is the way to go. The only reason people bolt them on is so they aren't permanent if they're planning to sell the truck in the future and want to restore it back to stock. Bending the frame rails because they're welded on due to the slider being stronger than the frame is no worse than if you bolt them on. Either way, the frame rails can still get bent if you blatantly slam the weight of your truck down on them over and over.
 
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it's a matter of preference the bolt sheer strength is lower then that of a good weld going around the mounting brackets and it also depends on the tube thickness of the sliders you order, if the tube thickness is thicker then frame and you weld on you can seriously bend up your frame if you hit something hard enough. and trust me you'd rather have the rock rails bend or deflect before your frame does.

it has more to do with the over all design of the slider as opposed to bolt on weld on if the design is good both are equal in most rearguards it's really just preference, me i prefer bolt on just becuase it's easier to swap out repair repaint or whatever in most cases, only time that isn't true is if you bent a even then removing a bent bolt is not different then cutting a weld of your frame.

i just think worst case scenario as well, as in lets say the rock slider is over built
for the frame and you come down on something really hard the weld will taco the frame and the bolt will sheer and send the rock rail into the lower door sill . and to be honest for it even come to this you'd pretty much just have to pick your truck up with a crane a few feet from the ground and drop it on the sliders, i'll just say though it does happen, very rarely but it does. personally i don't ever see that happening to my self from the way i wheel.

again though it really depends on the design of the slider it's self.

it really is subjective.

personally i like box tube sliders that have gussets and are bolt on.

the box tube is a greater surface area to slider on with a wider balance point if you only catch one so less chance of sliding the wrong way and getting high centered and also less chance of getting hung up on your rear fender were the tube ones typically come back into the body.

the bolt on for ease of use and the ability remove fairly quickly. and worst case scenario options from my point of view.

and the gussets for good strength geometry.

honestly i can't strongly recommend either way, go with what you like and just double check slider thickness vs. frame thickness and make sure the rails will deform before the frame.
 
due to the slider being stronger than the frame is no worse than if you bolt them on.

depends on the weld job,size of bead ,penetration,and length of bead, i'm willing to bet the bolt sheer strength is far less then a fully welded set up.
worst case scenario as described by you bolt on has a far less chance of bending the frame.
 
I do get that, but sliders are not meant to take abuse from reapeatedly slamming the weight of your truck down on them. They're just there to sit on rocks, slide off them, and deflect the rocks from making contact with the rockers as you know. If they are used for their intended purpose, you will never have a problem with them bending your frame rails. If you inflict enough force on them to cause them to bend the frame, imagine what kind of damage you'd do if you didn't have sliders.

Like someone over on TTORA commented in a similar thread, "They're called sliders, not slammers."
 
i'm honestly wondering because if you troll through most jeep forums (yes i know, 2 completely different setups) probably over 90% of the guys on there are using bolt on sliders. Especially a lot of folks in the XJ crew because of the thinness of the pinch seams and whatnot...cant risk welding a hole thru it.....and nobody seems to have an issue.

its interesting to see people's opinions on this.
 
"They're called sliders, not slammers."

yeah but we both know that in life shit happens and like i said like 98% of the time you don;t ever have to worry about bending the frame, i'd just prefer to mention the possibility of it and down play it as opposed to ignoring the potential.

i completely agree with you though if you know how to drive your going slow watching all tires as they make contact with rocks or any give obstacle and are anticipating a slide or drop and changing your line accordingly.

point is man, we never know who we are talking to on the other end of these things, i just don't give some good sound advice then **** wad does something really stupid and i get blamed for giving bad advice when no one can really predict the idiot factor. you know. and shit even really good drivers get dropped on thier sliders from time to time, but really that only happens on tough trails and i just stick to easy-moderate and fire trails in the runner, imo it's to nice to be mean to yet, lol

am i wrong for thinking this way? always open for some criticism.(not ass hattery but you know
don't be a d!ck" every now and again is good for most of us.
 
Ehh... Wrong for thinking this way? No... You have developed various points and provided details on how you came to that conclusion. Props to you.

I personally have never seen or heard of anyone coming down on a slider hard enough to break them loose (weld or bolt on), and haven't heard of anyone fubar-ing their frame either.

Maybe it's just because at "slider level" wheeling experience, we generally have an idea of our rigs limits, our driving limits, and the terrain we expect to see off road, and we are mindful of all those factors so that we don't screw anything up. But yes, I agree, stuff happens. I have thought a few times about what would happen if someone were to t-bone me... Being in a lifted truck, what would happen if a smaller car was to run into the sliders head on? Would they deflect the impact down, under the truck? Or would the sliders bend at the welds back into my doors? Mine are mounted at 15*...

Bolt on Vs. Weld on - Again, personal preference I think. Like you stated, you stick to the easy/moderate trails... I think bolt on is acceptable. It is much easier to paint them and repair them if they aren't on the truck. Both valid statements. My only point was strength. If you bring that much weight down on any part of your truck, you're gonna have problems. Big problems.

I don't think you'll see as great an improvement with square Vs. round tubing... Personally, I think round looks much cleaner. And I think it will "slide" and kick me around obstacles better than sharp angles would.

Anywho, if you take care of your junk, use top quailty parts, and most importantly - use your head, things will most likely work like they are supposed to and no one will see any problems!

- Chris
 
i'm honestly wondering because if you troll through most jeep forums (yes i know, 2 completely different setups) probably over 90% of the guys on there are using bolt on sliders. Especially a lot of folks in the XJ crew because of the thinness of the pinch seams and whatnot...cant risk welding a hole thru it.....and nobody seems to have an issue.

its interesting to see people's opinions on this.


Meh... Their Jeeps... They have an enormous "bolt-on" market... The 4Runner - not so much... I mean, if you were marketing a product like this, wouldn't you shoot for ease of install? It'd be a great selling point... The "slider crowd" that own 4Runners, usually spend the funds to do it right, regarding lifts, armor, upgrades, etc... Thats the diffrence in the "Jeep thing" and Toyotas... We just rock! :bigok:
 
I thought you made good points izzardking. And yes, sh!t does happen so it's good to talk about plenty of different scenarios. For the people who abuse and beat on their junk, bolt-on might be a better option (although on the other hand, it could also shear off altogether and push the slider into the body which it's trying to protect), but welding is fine for the vast majority of us 4runer guys too.
 
Meh... Their Jeeps... They have an enormous "bolt-on" market... The 4Runner - not so much... I mean, if you were marketing a product like this, wouldn't you shoot for ease of install? It'd be a great selling point... The "slider crowd" that own 4Runners, usually spend the funds to do it right, regarding lifts, armor, upgrades, etc... Thats the diffrence in the "Jeep thing" and Toyotas... We just rock! :bigok:

and you forgot to mention they just aren't built as well as the 4runner that's why they are attaching them the pinch weld and bolting them on, you run a high risk of blowing through the pinch seam with welding just cause it's thinner metal your tacking to. same goes for the whole truck it's just not as heavy duty.

i've owned 5 jeeps in my life all xj's and zj's and can be honest and not a fan boy when i say they are pretty much a piece of crap all around compared to the 4runner, the jeep guys will have a shit fit over that one, but it's a fact a well built 4runner vs a well built jeep the runner will last longer every-time, the only thing imo the jeeps have on the runners is the solid axle, number of parts dealers, and fan boys. the major draw back of the 4runner in my opinion is marginally underpowered and non solid axle, but beyond that every single little piece on a 4runner is higher quality and better built and will last longer.
 

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