What Bone Head Move did you do to your 4Runner
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2TH4IST
Member
Forgot to cut off a piece of the exhaust while I was taking off eimkeith's rear bumper (was tired and just ready to drop bumper to do final grinding) and we'll the bumper fell and crushed my hand on the last exhaust hanger, 113 pounds and all. Yeah, it hurt. No damage to the runner, just myself.
patkelly4370
New member
Slid my new bowie knife (Cold Steel Maurader) between the driver seat and console. Kydex sheath scratched the grey trim.
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Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
RunningForNow
Member
I’m on a similar boat. I have a Borla Pro XS installed on mine. The drone isn’t terrible, but it’s there, and I’m not sure I want to put up with that.
RunningForNow
Member
I was doing some paint correction by using a compound and polisher. I wasn’t being careful and put a few burned spots on the fender flares. The paint crinkled up a bit. Luckily I have plans to Rhinoline the flares and the rocker panels, so I just have to put up with those spots until I get to that project.
jross20
New member
I think it's the same one, turbo xl and pro xs. Ugh.
jross20
New member
Shit that just makes me shiver. Poor truck :nono:
RunningForNow
Member
Meh. The paint wasn’t perfect to begin with. It looks good for being a 19 year old truck, but it’s no Concours.
brillo_76
Elite Member
Try to glue on a rusted off quarter panel before verifying the glue was any good. Ended up pop riveting it in then sealed with body filler. What I mess trying to get the glue to harden. From then on a pop rivet to hold on place the weld the panels in. Once welded I drill out the pop revits and weld it shut. That seems to work so much better. As panel glue is worthless after expiration date even if it was never used.
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Doc2012
Senior Member
I was up for about 36 hours, and decided it would be a good idea to swap my transmission.
Changing the transmission, I put my 1/2” breaker on the crank bolt to rotate crank/flywheel to get TC bolts in. TC bolts in, moved to the crossmember, plugging everything in etc etc.
Couldn’t find my breaker bar to lower my transmission jack, so just used my 3/8” with a 1/2” adapter.
Started the truck, heard a god awful sound. Shut the truck off, looked under the hood.
There was my breaker, and 19mm,sitting on the driver side frame rail.
Took the crank bolt out.
Ended up ****ing the crank bolt up a few months later, had to chase the crank with a tap.
All is well now though. [emoji3]
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Changing the transmission, I put my 1/2” breaker on the crank bolt to rotate crank/flywheel to get TC bolts in. TC bolts in, moved to the crossmember, plugging everything in etc etc.
Couldn’t find my breaker bar to lower my transmission jack, so just used my 3/8” with a 1/2” adapter.
Started the truck, heard a god awful sound. Shut the truck off, looked under the hood.
There was my breaker, and 19mm,sitting on the driver side frame rail.
Took the crank bolt out.
Ended up ****ing the crank bolt up a few months later, had to chase the crank with a tap.
All is well now though. [emoji3]
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Joelzy
New member
1. during my rebuild i ran the knock sensor harness to the wrong side of the block so i went back in and had to nudge the driver cam pulley just a tad to have enough room to move the back plate and get the plug through. Bolted everything back up but forgot to retorque the cam pulley and about gave myself a heart attack when it started knocking 2 days later.
2. also during rebuild i realized the new headbolts i bought didnt quite have the sharp edges for the socket to grab that you would like. Mastertech friend that was helping me thought i should try them and against my own better judgement i went for it only to not be able to fully torque them because the socket was jumping across the ridges. had to use an extractor to remove them and start over with another set of bolts.
"O.E. replacements" vs factory
3. more recently i realized that during my rebuild i hadn't really believed the FSM on how much extra FIPG to put on the halfmoons and cam plugs and developed an oil seep with less than 10k miles on a full rebuild. resealed now but annoyed no less.
4. deciding to remove the sunroof motor without dropping the headliner. the damage is covered by that upper console but just barely.
in fact, my whole build is riddled with bonehead moves
2. also during rebuild i realized the new headbolts i bought didnt quite have the sharp edges for the socket to grab that you would like. Mastertech friend that was helping me thought i should try them and against my own better judgement i went for it only to not be able to fully torque them because the socket was jumping across the ridges. had to use an extractor to remove them and start over with another set of bolts.
"O.E. replacements" vs factory
3. more recently i realized that during my rebuild i hadn't really believed the FSM on how much extra FIPG to put on the halfmoons and cam plugs and developed an oil seep with less than 10k miles on a full rebuild. resealed now but annoyed no less.
4. deciding to remove the sunroof motor without dropping the headliner. the damage is covered by that upper console but just barely.
in fact, my whole build is riddled with bonehead moves
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MStudt
official vendor
TonyB66
New member
Odd. I've had the Borla ProXS Muffler 40665 for a couple years now, and really like it. Wife and kids do also.
Jidaran
New member
this is probably a bone head question - but the switch you have is a mod, right? there's no stock antenna switch in my truck i've somehow missed..... right?
Rolling_Thunder
Member
Was fighting the transmission when I did the 5 speed swap... had done the entire swap in one day, in a garage, when it was -3* I wouldnt get the bellhousing to seat against the block and fought and fought until I said F*** It... in the process I got a little heated and ended up breaking a finger as I fought it --- Pull the whole thing back out and saw the dowel in the block... then noticed the dowel that had been stuck in the bellhousing.... in the same hole - :mmph:
jross20
New member
Is it bigger than the 40664?
AntleredRuin
New member
Would have bet serious money that the clattering sound under my truck was a dying catalytic converter, so I cut it out with my sawzall (the bolts were seized and I couldn't get get good leverage on them with the cat in the way).
Turns out the noise was the rear DS front u-joint (I swear I checked them before). So I ****ed up a good OEM cat for nothing and had to install a Walker direct fit unit.
Turns out the noise was the rear DS front u-joint (I swear I checked them before). So I ****ed up a good OEM cat for nothing and had to install a Walker direct fit unit.
