What did you do with your classic T4R today?

got the passenger window working from both switches. reflowed solder on the circuit board of the door control module (located behind and above the ecu in '88 models) and cleaned the rocker contacts of both switches. could have just been dirty switch contacts, but the solder was cracked and pitted.

the door light turned out to be a cut wire; fixed that, too.

next, exhaust pipe gasket off the manifold.
 
Put the ktt on.
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local glass shop replaced the mirror glass on the head of the drivers power mirror. i just installed it; still works, and now it's crack-free and legal.

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New owner here. Been hunting down the issue/s with my tailgate window. I've fixed a few parts of the system but it still doesn't want to work from the tailgate or front switch. I think I have narrowed it down to short stretch of wire in between the window motor and the wiper/window module, which from what I've read, seems like the least likely thing to break! Today or tomorrow that will get a more thorough inspection.

Yesterday I did some trouble shooting on a broken aftermarket electrical fan the previous owner installed. There are a bunch of different ways to wire these kits in, so I had fun chasing down each wire and figuring out his method. I'm down to one run out of the four that spur off the relay, it disappears about halfway down the front of the engine. I can't quite get my hand to it or see it...I'm hoping some research today gives me a hint as to what that wire is running to and how to test whatever it is plugged into.
 
beat my head against a wall today, attempting to replace a lower ball joint in the '88. of course i snapped one of the bolts off removing the old one yesterday. had to resort to torches to get it out, but i got it.

spent a good three hours trying to get the replacement installed. eventually figured out that the casting is off slightly. no surprise, as it's made by the a*%holes from the land of almost right. bought it at o'reillys, a MasterPro K9587. and damn, it looks well-made. it has a bellows-type rubber boot, a boot-spring, and decent hardware to attach it, and the casting appears the same as the original. but it won't fit. it can sit flush in the recess of the knuckle, but the holes won't line up. or, i can get all four holes/bolts in, but it won't sit flush that way - it is askew, and will not seat properly. shit.

i should have ordered one through toyota, and that's what i'm going to do now.

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used a pitman arm puller to remove the old joint, worked slick. i then used a bottle jack to separate the upper/lower arms enough to remove the old joint (and install the new one). only disconnected the shock mount, nothing else had to be removed or disconnected to replace the lower joint (not the caliper, not the brake lines, not the sway bar links - NOTHING).
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and, i ended up using the MP joint anyway, since i couldn't return it (filled with grease prior to attempting to install it). i "solved" the mounting hole alignment issue by using a carbide cutter bit in my dremel, and removing enough material from the joint mounting holes to allow the joint to fit in the knuckle recess and have the holes line up.
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... a MasterPro K9587. and damn, it looks well-made. it has a bellows-type rubber boot, a boot-spring, and decent hardware to attach it, and the casting appears the same as the original. but it won't fit. it can sit flush in the recess of the knuckle, but the holes won't line up. or, i can get all four holes/bolts in, but it won't sit flush that way - it is askew, and will not seat properly. shit.

i should have ordered one through toyota, and that's what i'm going to do now.

good to know... thanks
 
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Took it to some trails and put it to work.


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got the '88 registered and insured. now it's on the road.

took it on imy first drive, about 50 miles. pinion seal leaks a bit, so i'll address that soon. cruise control works, which surprised me. transmission works smooth, O/D works. seems like it could be a decent beater.
 
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changed the brake pads on the '88. both inner pads were worn to almost nothing (about paper-thin), while the outers both still had the factory center groove still visible. greased the driveline, too, and the upper ball joints.
 
rear pinion seal replaced on the '88. took about two hours. i purchased the seal and stake nut from toyota. used the 1/2" impact to remove three of the flange bolts, but the fourth wasn't loosening. glad i also have a 3/4" impact (for my old dozer), that solved the last one, withou breaking it either.

took a bit to unstake the pinion nut, but i got it. used a 1-3/16" 6-sided socket (could not get a 30mm locally) and a long breaker bar to remove it, counting the number of turns the nut required to be removed. i pried the old seal out with a hammer and screwdriver, carefull not to touch the splines on the shaft.

i placed the new seal in a freezer for an hour, then used a 2" socket and small hammer to install it reinstalled everything, and took it for a 15 mile ride. no more leak.

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Yesterday I finally upgraded rear springs for the final time. Tried Moog "leveling" springs, settled quickly and only boosted the booty by about 1/2". Then I went with 2" spacers, which wouldn't sit on the Moogs so I had to use stock springs. Did alright. Finally went with OME 2901s and love the look so far. It was dark so I don't have pics of the truck, but rear sits about 1"-1.5" higher than the front now. I'll put up pictures when it's daylight.

Here are the stock springs with spacer compared to 2901

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On a side note, I have spacers as well as Moog springs I no longer need. Anyone interested?
 
got the '88 registered and insured. now it's on the road.

took it on imy first drive, about 50 miles. pinion seal leaks a bit, so i'll address that soon. cruise control works, which surprised me. transmission works smooth, O/D works. seems like it could be a decent beater.

It wants to live again! :cheers:
 
replaced the back window metal channel (unobtanium now) on the '88. the key to installing it is to place the rubber gaskets in place on the window first, spray them with windex, and then tap the metal channel in place.

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i also straightened the arms on the regulator, and lubricated everything (confirmed that the motor works prior to doing anything). installed the glass, the motor /regulator assembly, and the tailgate panels, along with the inner and outer window sweeps.

i had to wire in a new dpdt switch to operate the window, because the rear window relay was missing, and i didn't want to spend $80+ on a beater when $10 and some wiring would suffice. mounted the switch on the dash, between the column and the parking brake lever. the window now works fine, even with the ignition off. the dpdt option, without the original relay, means none of the safety switches function; the window will lower if the switch is thrown down, or lift if the switch is thrown up. fine by me. the downside is that the keyswitch in the gate can't be used, but that was true anyway with the relay missing.
 
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Today I installed my Total Chaos idler arm because i got tired of replacing stock idler arms. Bronze bushings & idler arm braces just exposed the next weak link...the small end that bolts to the centerlink.



Straightforward install, just had to drill the centerlink out to a 5/8" straight hole and chase threads on a fourth mounting bolt on the underside of the frame. Nicely made with ball bearings on the ends so hopefully it'll last till my sas.


Looks beefy. Does that mean you have a Blazeland bracket you're looking to offload? Just so happens I'm in the market if that's the case....
 
Ordered some parts for my 1987 4runner build.

New turbo is a garrett gtx2860r, tial wastegate along with some other things to finish up my project.

Anyone know how many replies are needed before I can post a build thread. It has been a long time coming.
 
Washed it yesterday. And suspension picture with 901 OME springs in back. Ride quality is wonderful.

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