what do you think this is worth?
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Bad_Vision
Moderator
Looks like a great price to me.
Arb is 1500$ each plus new gears.
And a solid axle front!
I would buy that in a second if I liked 2nd gens at all.
As long as it all looks done right and doesn't dog track it would be a fair daily driver as well.
Arb is 1500$ each plus new gears.
And a solid axle front!
I would buy that in a second if I liked 2nd gens at all.
As long as it all looks done right and doesn't dog track it would be a fair daily driver as well.
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flyinhawaiian01
New member
I agree, and if you have cash, I bet you walk in and offer 9 grand, he'd probably take it, or just a little over that.
The straight axle swap would easily cost you 3 or 4 grand to have done, and at least 2 grand if you do it yourself with the right parts. Add that to the arb's and the suspension/wheels, you're over that just building one from a 3 grand donor.
The straight axle swap would easily cost you 3 or 4 grand to have done, and at least 2 grand if you do it yourself with the right parts. Add that to the arb's and the suspension/wheels, you're over that just building one from a 3 grand donor.
Don't want to hijack the thread, but, I'm in need of some advice. I've located a 1993 4Runner with 113k original miles. New clutch, tires, radiator and brakes. Additionally, it's a 3.0 and the head gaskets were replaced in 1999. The owner has all of the service records for the vehicle. It is clean inside and out. The only rust is about the size of a .50 piece above the rear wheel well, it's started to bubble but hasn't eaten through. They won't BUDGE from $6k. What do you guys think?? Thanks.
Seems high but everything is region specific. There have been some 3rd gen 5 speeds going for a little more on here.
Dropzone
New member
it is a well equipped 4Runner but it might just be me but the rear axle doesn't look centered on the rear wheel well/arch
Also if you are planning on using this truck in the rocks the design of the rear bumper sloping towards the rear of the vehicle seems like it could hang up on rocks instead of sliding off them if the slope of the bumper was towards the front of the truck...hope that makes sense.
when I do the SAS/Rear leaf conversion on my 94 it will sit considerable lower than the 4Runner in the add (even on 35's) this 4Runner sits too high for my tastes
edit: I would also check the date code on the tires. The add says "Near new 35 inch GoodYear Wrangler MTR tire" that tread pattern (though better than the new MTR's) hasn't been produced for a few years
Also if you are planning on using this truck in the rocks the design of the rear bumper sloping towards the rear of the vehicle seems like it could hang up on rocks instead of sliding off them if the slope of the bumper was towards the front of the truck...hope that makes sense.
when I do the SAS/Rear leaf conversion on my 94 it will sit considerable lower than the 4Runner in the add (even on 35's) this 4Runner sits too high for my tastes
edit: I would also check the date code on the tires. The add says "Near new 35 inch GoodYear Wrangler MTR tire" that tread pattern (though better than the new MTR's) hasn't been produced for a few years
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jbtvt
New member
Pretty! Looks just like my '90. It has the specs and if it's what you want you could do a lot worse. Doesn't look like it's actually been wheeled much, those are old tires with a lot of meat. Check for dry rot and keep them out of the sun if you buy! Hi Steer, that's good. Suspension looks too stiff. The 3.0 is all it's cracked up to be - some are OK longevity wise but it's 28yo old technology with major heat/air/exhaust issues, terrible mileage and poor power by today's standards. Longfields should not be used for street driving - doesn't matter if manual hubs and they're left open in front but not sure how that would work for the rear as far as wear.
If you're seeing a rust bubble through paint there it's not the only rust on the truck, not by a long shot. For a stock 3.0? If they cut that price in half it might be worth considering.
I climbed underneath the truck, on top, opened the tailgate and everywhere else. Unless I'm blind there is no other rust. What makes you think there's additional rust?
So this thing is worth no more than $3k?
You could buy a much more capable rig for much less but they are generally much more trail only. If you want something pretty for the street and some light to mid trails then and you're planning to pay a shop to do the work for you, then the deals not bad. I'd probably put it more in the 6-8k range. But I would check with the shop what all was done. Its fairly obvious the owner doesn't know much about it.
Personally, for the money, I'd buy a clean fj80 with electric locks front and back. Have just as good of a machine and will hold its value, if not raise it.
Personally, for the money, I'd buy a clean fj80 with electric locks front and back. Have just as good of a machine and will hold its value, if not raise it.
Who are you responding to?
jbtvt
New member
I'm partial to the second gen styling but opinions aside, one bonus is that the frame is much thicker. Unfortunately this doesn't translate to higher towing or better crash ratings but one practical application is when average Joe doesn't maintain it during the winter the body can rot away but the frame will still be solid. I've never bought a 3rd gen because every single one I looked at had a soft or rotten frame whereas I drove a $400 2nd gen that had more bondo than steel for years and the frame was still rock solid. Moot point if it's well undercoated annually in the rust belt as I often harp on. Otherwise I agree the 3rd gens are an improvement in most other ways, esp under the hood. But why stop there if you want stock, I paid $5k for my 2003 with a V8. Better than the 3rds in every way...except styling 
Are we officially off topic yet?
Edit: 2nd gens also had their ball joints in the "right" configuration, 3rds are upside down. Know there were a couple other chassis items in 2nds that were more trucklike, ie better.
Are we officially off topic yet?
Edit: 2nd gens also had their ball joints in the "right" configuration, 3rds are upside down. Know there were a couple other chassis items in 2nds that were more trucklike, ie better.
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jbtvt
New member
Realistically yes, but there are people who will pay more than that for it. Depending where you are they might actually get S6k, which is crazy IMO.
Imside of the rear bumper and the quarter panles that run behind/under it are almost always the first spots to rot. It'll be poking through the chrome in a year. Bottom of fenders and column is another spot. So is under that plastic trim by the rear doors. Might not be visible yet but if you're seeing bubbles it's there for sure.
v_man
New member
I have a similarly built 90. You're going to want a second transfer case, or at least a 4.7 case. Proper gearing is everything on these big rock crawlers, the stock t case is fine for mild stuff, but when you really want to start crawling steep difficult stuff, you're going to want lower gear options .
Dual cases not that complicated but you'll need a t case adapter, the second case, and new drive lines . Or just swap out the single case for a 4.7.
I like it at 7k, don't pay 10 plus.
Dual cases not that complicated but you'll need a t case adapter, the second case, and new drive lines . Or just swap out the single case for a 4.7.
I like it at 7k, don't pay 10 plus.
Dropzone
New member
After running dual case for 7+ years with a 4.7( for 4 years) in the rear case IMO a single 4.7 case is kind of low if that is your only low range option. When requiring low range between obstacles with a 4.7 and 5th gear I found myself holding up trail runs.
Having both options are nice. I ended up selling my 4.7 case because I just found myself not needing 221:1 that often. Plus with 4.7 gear sets being scarce at times I did pretty good selling that case and going with two 2.28 cases.
Sure the advantages $$wise of a single dual case save you the cost of redoing driveshafts, adapter and a new crossmember but to me dual stock cases give you may more options on the trail over a single 4.7 case. JMO.
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KidVermicious
New member
^Agree with DZ. I have a single 4.7 case and while it's magic on the rocks and way cheaper than a doubler setup I do miss a regular low range. I'll put a doubler in eventually just to get the option for 2.28 back.
