What else would you recommend I do? (Maintenance)

[fan of fanboys]

So I'm making a list of what to do to my 1999. I have owned just over a year and the PO did a great job with maintenance. I want to maintain that and hopefully get a lot more life from truck (currently 264k miles!)

I bought Feb 2017 with 248k miles, for reference

Here are two lists. First is what the PO did with the time it was done, when available

Differential/Transfer Oils done at 243k
- Steering Rack Bushings done at 243k
- Rear Brake Bell Cranks done at 237k
- Tires Balanced and Alignment done at 235k
- Front and Rear Brakes (Discs and Pads and Drums and Shoes) done at 235k
- Bilstein Shocks done at 234k
- Battery replaced at 220k (July 2014)
- Spark Plugs and wires done at 219k
- Fuel Filter done at 219k
- Rear catalytic Converter, Muffler, and both O2 sensors done at 217k
- Radiator and Transmission fluid replaced at 207k (September 2012)
- Water pump and timing belt done at 187k (October 2011)

So that's what was done and when. Oil has been changed every 5k

Based on that list and timing what do you recommend?




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[fan of fanboys]

Here is a list I made.

Any if this not need to be done? Or when would you recommend it being done? Anything I don't have listed that I really should?

timing belt

lower ball joint

water pump

outer/outer tie rods

New oil seals

New idler pulley and belt tensioner

spark plugs and wires

pcv

fuel filter

valve cover gaskets

Oil pan gasket

Transfer case gasket

Exhaust manifold gasket

radiator/coolant/tranny/front and rear differential flush

o2 sensor

check rack bushings

install transmission cooler

shocks/springs/sway bar link/suspension bushings

Transmission filter/strainer and pan gasket

rear axle seals

Cooling system flush


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[Lamer]

my comments are based off my knowledge, and what your previous owner has done, do not take this a gospel.

timing belt - has less than 100k miles, should not have to touch
lower ball joint - if they are original, I would replace them to keep peace of mind. ONLY REPLACE THEM WITH OEM!!!
water pump - has less than 100k miles, should not have to touch.
outer/outer tie rods - are they making noise?
New oil seals - leaking?
New idler pulley and belt tensioner - replaced with timing belt/water pump???
spark plugs and wires - chekc the plugs, replace only if needed
pcv - check the grommet, if its dried up and flaking, yes. I'm not sure how to check the valve itself other than opening the valve cover
fuel filter - do you have low fuel pressure?
valve cover gaskets - leaking?
Oil pan gasket - leaking?
Transfer case gasket - I'm unsure on this one...
Exhaust manifold gasket - leaking? (loud exhaust)
radiator/coolant/tranny/front and rear differential flush - are you running hot? you may look into installing a separate tranny cooler to avoid pink milkshake (tranny fluid and coolant mixing, not good) if the radiator is new, then you should be fine.
o2 sensor - already replaced by PO
check rack bushings - might as well install poly rack bushings. its and easy enough job.
install transmission cooler - see comments above
shocks/springs/sway bar link/suspension bushings - are they making noise? bushings/joints old and flaky?
Transmission filter/strainer and pan gasket - tranny running hot? fluid dirty? gakset leaking?
rear axle seals - leaking? noisy?
Cooling system flush - see comments above.

 

[BamaDrewski]

my comments are based off my knowledge, and what your previous owner has done, do not take this a gospel.

timing belt - has less than 100k miles, should not have to touch
lower ball joint - if they are original, I would replace them to keep peace of mind. ONLY REPLACE THEM WITH OEM!!!
water pump - has less than 100k miles, should not have to touch.
outer/outer tie rods - are they making noise?
New oil seals - leaking?
New idler pulley and belt tensioner - replaced with timing belt/water pump???
spark plugs and wires - chekc the plugs, replace only if needed
pcv - check the grommet, if its dried up and flaking, yes. I'm not sure how to check the valve itself other than opening the valve cover
fuel filter - do you have low fuel pressure?
valve cover gaskets - leaking?
Oil pan gasket - leaking?
Transfer case gasket - I'm unsure on this one...
Exhaust manifold gasket - leaking? (loud exhaust)
radiator/coolant/tranny/front and rear differential flush - are you running hot? you may look into installing a separate tranny cooler to avoid pink milkshake (tranny fluid and coolant mixing, not good) if the radiator is new, then you should be fine.
o2 sensor - already replaced by PO
check rack bushings - might as well install poly rack bushings. its and easy enough job.
install transmission cooler - see comments above
shocks/springs/sway bar link/suspension bushings - are they making noise? bushings/joints old and flaky?
Transmission filter/strainer and pan gasket - tranny running hot? fluid dirty? gakset leaking?
rear axle seals - leaking? noisy?
Cooling system flush - see comments above.

I am sure you might have already thought of this but I would: (If I have repeated something you did...sorry!)

1. Flush the brake fluid and brake system and replace with new, synthetic fluid. (Easy to make a one-man pressure bleeder from a 1 gallon garden sprayer)
2. Flush the power steering system of all fluid and replace with quality transmission fluid (I use Mobil1 Synthetic trans fluid)
3. Consider putting in an in-line filter on the power steering pump.
4. Make sure you pull the reservoir on the power steering system and see if the screen in the bottom is clean - if not, clean it.
5. Lube the propeller shaft all all joints that take greases (universal joints, etc.)
6. Consider an external transmission cooler. Easy to install and cheap insurance against the pink milkshake.
7. Clean the MAF
8. Clean the throttle body well
9. Check the valve cover gaskets for leaks and tighten any loose hold down screws.

Sounds like you have really paid good attention to your rig! My ideas are just suggestions stemming from my OCD when it comes to my rig!

 

[gamefreakgc]

Either you are itching for a project or looking to burn some cash, not sure which! A lot of these items do not need to be replaced, some not for at least 50k more miles at the very least. A lot of these are NOT maintenance items, only repair if there's an issue. Direct your energy towards something else.

timing belt - No, already done

lower ball joint - Yes, focus on this one first. Only real issue on this list.

water pump - No, already done

outer/outer tie rods - Only if have play or too loose. Inners go bad first anyway

New oil seals - No

New idler pulley and belt tensioner - No, already done

spark plugs and wires - Only if needed, wires only if damaged

pcv - Yes, takes only a few minutes and costs $3.

fuel filter - No, unless you live in an area with bad gas.

valve cover gaskets - Only if leaking, otherwise leave this for the next job.

Oil pan gasket - No, definitely NOT worth it.

Transfer case gasket - No, definitely not worth the time.

Exhaust manifold gasket - No, you're really asking for pain huh lol?

radiator/coolant/tranny/front and rear differential flush - Yes and no, differentials could be replaced if oil is dark/smelly, but leave the coolant alone.

o2 sensor - Only if you want to or have poor gas mileage.

check rack bushings - No, they last ~200k.

install transmission cooler - No unless you use this to tow constantly. If being done for the pink milkshake issue (very rare) he already replaced the radiator, which is what should be done anyway.

shocks/springs/sway bar link/suspension bushings - Replace if worn or bushings are crumbling

Transmission filter/strainer and pan gasket - No, wait until the next time you have to change the fluid, much simpler.

rear axle seals - DON'T TOUCH THESE UNLESS LEAKING! Otherwise you'll find yourself doing it again, and again.

Cooling system flush - No, was just done.