What fuse disables the Automatic Antennae?

I'm pretty sure you just voided your warranty!

Not really. It's your truck, do what you want, not having the antenna up won't "hurt" anything, other than your ability to pick up some radio stations.
 
So there really is no fuse you can just remove for the antenna motor???

I'm also curious. I don't even notice the antenna noise anymore but my one friend always gives me a hard time about how I've owned the vehicle for over 3 years and still not unplugged the broken antenna.
 
So there really is no fuse you can just remove for the antenna motor???

This has changed since the origin of this thread five years ago. Suddenly one day all still remaining T4Rs received a separate antenna fuse out of the clear blue sky. Nobody knows for sure when it happened, but your fusebox does have a new slot in it just for the antenna that it didn't have in 2010.:boxing:
 
Pop your hood. Look in the back left corner near the antenna. On the fender just below where the hose for your windshield washer fluid attaches there is a buzzer with two pink wires. This does the 'beep 'beep'' for your alarm. Follow these wires to the harness and you should find two more wires (maybe covered in black sheathing) one black with yellow stripe and one blue. This is your antenna power wires. These two wires should exit the harness and enter an open plastic grommet with a clear tube into the fender. You can cut these two wires and your antenna motor will stop purring. I would secure the wires so that they do not fall into the fender.

Or you could tear into the fender liner and there is a water resistant connector on these wires that can be unplugged in the fender.

This worked perfectly, the buzzing and grinding is gone. Thanks for posting this solution.
 
My antenna still works. What I'm gonna do is put a dash switch spliced into the antenna wire from the radio. That will freeze the antenna in whatever position it is in. That way it won't go up and down every time I turn the car on. I can leave it up indefinitely until I go off road and want to protect it, then I'll just turn the switch on, turn off the radio, and it will go down, then stay down when I turn the switch off. I am hoping that the antenna in the rear side window will still give me a decent signal even with the front antenna down.

Will this work? Or will I kill any signal I get from the power antenna by putting in this switch?
 
It will work fine. I used my ECT switch which I had no use for after the 5speed swap. There is an extra blank by the emergency brake you can use if you can find another ECT switch
 
I unplugged the relay harness and matched up all 8 wires with the one on the pdf posted earlier. It looks like there are two going to the antenna motor. I presume one is for raise and one is for lower.

Someone mentioned before how that harness does more than just the antenna so I don't want to leave it unplugged. What I did is turned the radio off and just as the antenna was halfway I unplugged it. Now the antenna is frozen half way up so it won't hit the garage door anymore. But if the antenna is fully down I don't get a.m. reception. What I'll do is cut each of those two wires and put them through a double switch. Then all you have to do if you want to change the position of the antenna is turn the switch on, then turn the radio on or off and right when the antenna is in the position you want, you just flip the switch and it freezes it there until you turn the switch back on.
 
i want to install a little inline micro switch as well. Is it just the blue/black wire that needs to be interrupted?

This is typically the "antenna" signal wire on most aftermarket decks
 
So I did it today. Someone provided this diagram earlier:

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96...pdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/systemci/051aa.pdf

There is the blue wire (labelled L for some reason) and the black / yellow wire, feeding the antenna motor. I cut both which I didn't need to do, either one is fine. Then run this to a switch which I haven't done yet, I just have the ends of the wires.

With the switch closed (contact), the antenna acts normally. When the switch is opened, it freezes the antenna wherever it is, either up, down or midway in between.

Great, now my antenna will last longer since it doesn't go up and down every time I turn on the ignition. And it isn't fully extended so it doesn't hit the garage door going in and out of the garage.

This harness goes into the relay which is located on the left below the cigarette lighter area. You squeeze the plug tab and pull down, it comes out easy once you can get your fingers in there. I had to take the gear shifter knobs and skirt panelling off, and the vertical panelling on the left side of the central hump, under the dash area.
 
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So I did it today. Someone provided this diagram earlier:

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96...pdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/systemci/051aa.pdf

There is the blue wire (labelled L for some reason) and the black / yellow wire, feeding the antenna motor. I cut both which I didn't need to do, either one is fine. Then run this to a switch which I haven't done yet, I just have the ends of the wires.

With the switch closed (contact), the antenna acts normally. When the switch is opened, it freezes the antenna wherever it is, either up, down or midway in between.

Great, now my antenna will last longer since it doesn't go up and down every time I turn on the ignition. And it isn't fully extended so it doesn't hit the garage door going in and out of the garage.

This harness goes into the relay which is located on the left below the cigarette lighter area. You squeeze the plug tab and pull down, it comes out easy once you can get your fingers in there. I had to take the gear shifter knobs and skirt panelling off, and the vertical panelling on the left side of the central hump, under the dash area.

thanks, I have the micro switch and bezel for it, just waiting until I get so sick of the crappy speakers when on pavement ( good after market head unit) and one of these days I will put them on. Prob half my driving is on forest service /logging roads and I have the stereo off.
 
One thing I noticed is that with the antenna partially extended it seems a bit loose in the antenna itself. When extended it telescopes nicely and the sections fit tightly against each other. When retracted it closes up nice and tight. But midway in between, the telescoping sections don't snug up against each other so it's a bit loose. My only concern would be dust or salt in winter accumulating in there.
 
Pop your hood. Look in the back left corner near the antenna. On the fender just below where the hose for your windshield washer fluid attaches there is a buzzer with two pink wires. This does the 'beep 'beep'' for your alarm. Follow these wires to the harness and you should find two more wires (maybe covered in black sheathing) one black with yellow stripe and one blue. This is your antenna power wires. These two wires should exit the harness and enter an open plastic grommet with a clear tube into the fender. You can cut these two wires and your antenna motor will stop purring. I would secure the wires so that they do not fall into the fender.

I did this today as my antenna motor started making a horrible screeching sound when running. The truck came to me without an antenna and I hardly ever listen to the radio anyway.

A couple notes:

The buzzer with the pink wires is close to the firewall - near the antenna. It's pretty easy to find. The black with yellow stripe and the blue wires were harder to find as they were covered by a sheath on my '99.
 
thanks whiskycop, just cut the black with yellow stripe and the blue wire in the location you said. Its the only 2 wires in the sheath. Just trimmed the sheath back to make sure it was those wires. Tape up the cut wire. No need to go into the fender well. My antenna was always up, but the motor would run for about 15 seconds after shutting the car off.
 

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