What have I done?!

[theliman]

...and how do I fix it, if possible?

This is why I hate doing stuff myself. So I just bought my 4runner, and I thought I would try some Meguiar's Scratch X to make some scratches less noticeable. Someone recommended them for the problem I was having, they said it looked like paint transfer and Meguiar's might help.

Anyway, it helped on one very shallow scratch. However, around most of the small scratches I tried to fix, there is now a "hazy" looking circle where I was working.

Basically, when I could tell that Scratch X wasn't going to solve the problem, I stopped what I was doing and gently wiped the residue off with a soft t-shirt. I figured that since it was abrasive (even though I think their bottle claims it doesn't remove paint) I might as well stop now.

See the two pictures. They are a day later and after I rinsed my car off.

Is there anything I can do to fix this? I don't really have any equipment for this sort of thing...can a professional do anything that would not require a ton of money? And finally, did I do anything wrong? If not, I guess that's it for me trying to fix with Meguiar's. Just got Langka - hope I don't ruin my car with that now.

 

[810moto]

try using a clay bar then build the wax layers back up and see if it goes away.

 

[t4r4life]

i dont see whats wrong with it

 

[tkr128]

The hazing is caused by the abrasives in the Scratch-X. I can't remember if Scratch-X uses diminishing abrasives that become gradually finer after rubbing or not. Essentially what it does is scratch up the area you're rubbing it into to even out the area between the scratched clearcoat and the non-scratched clear coat to reduce the appearance of the scratch. You can fix the hazing by using a light polish and rubbing it in thoroughly. Also watch what kind of towels you're using, the wrong type of towel can cause more scratches to the paint that is especially noticeable on black.

For more info, check out Autopia - Autopia Home

 

[theliman]

The hazing is caused by the abrasives in the Scratch-X. I can't remember if Scratch-X uses diminishing abrasives that become gradually finer after rubbing or not. Essentially what it does is scratch up the area you're rubbing it into to even out the area between the scratched clearcoat and the non-scratched clear coat to reduce the appearance of the scratch. You can fix the hazing by using a light polish and rubbing it in thoroughly. Also watch what kind of towels you're using, the wrong type of towel can cause more scratches to the paint that is especially noticeable on black.

For more info, check out Autopia - Autopia Home

Thanks, I will try that first. Then look into clay bar if I need to.

 

[96743runner]

I agree that clay bar would be your best bet to fix your problem. Worked wonders for me!

 

[rook]

Don't waste your time with a clay bar. All surface contaminants have been removed with the rubbing compound. You have ultra-fine scratches that need to be polished out with a finishing compound, i.e. a product without abrasives. Look for 3M glaze or swirl remover. You can apply it by hand with a microfiber towel or get a foam ball that attaches to a drill. The haze will be gone in no time. Then apply a nice coat of wax.

 

[004Gunner]

Don't waste your time with a clay bar. All surface contaminants have been removed with the rubbing compound. You have ultra-fine scratches that need to be polished out with a finishing compound, i.e. a product without abrasives. Look for 3M glaze or swirl remover. You can apply it by hand with a microfiber towel or get a foam ball that attaches to a drill. The haze will be gone in no time. Then apply a nice coat of wax.

:iagree:

 

[theliman]

Don't waste your time with a clay bar. All surface contaminants have been removed with the rubbing compound. You have ultra-fine scratches that need to be polished out with a finishing compound, i.e. a product without abrasives. Look for 3M glaze or swirl remover. You can apply it by hand with a microfiber towel or get a foam ball that attaches to a drill. The haze will be gone in no time. Then apply a nice coat of wax.

Very much appreciated. "Without abrasives" sounds good to me.

 

[theliman]

I'm actually on the Meguiar's forum, and someone said I should use a foam applicator pad. The terry cloth pad is more aggressive. They said I should use ScratchX again. I called Meguiar's and they suggested the same thing, saying I needed to use it for 1.5-2 minutes so I will try that. Then wax.

 

[audiqtr]

Don't waste your time with a clay bar. All surface contaminants have been removed with the rubbing compound. You have ultra-fine scratches that need to be polished out with a finishing compound, i.e. a product without abrasives. Look for 3M glaze or swirl remover. You can apply it by hand with a microfiber towel or get a foam ball that attaches to a drill. The haze will be gone in no time. Then apply a nice coat of wax.

X2, but remember all Polishes and Compounds ARE Abrasive. Finishing polishes are LESS abrasive. If they weren't abrasive, you wouldn'e be able to FIX any point imperfections. It's gonna take you a while to fix that by hand, find somebody with an orbital. Orbitals are idiot proof. If you find someone with a Rotary, make sure they know what they are doing. Even most detailing shops don't know what they are doing with a rotary. I'd do it for you if you were close, but you are not. Good luck

 

[theliman]

I appreciate everyone's help. Turns out a second application of ScratchX, this time with a foam applicator pad and working it in for 60-90 seconds, did the trick. Also helped with the scratches, as I originally wanted!

All this talk of "abrasive" made me afraid of using it for too long on my car. I think the main problem was that I only worked it in for 15-20 seconds, wiping the ample residue off before it had time to "diminish" and continue working.

While I was down there I saw a lot of stuff in my paint and I think I may actually try claybar. I'm also de-rusting a couple of rock chips right now and will be applying langka tomorrow, so I'm not going to wax yet. Is it ok to wash my car now? (used ScratchX a few minutes ago)

 

[theliman]

I appreciate everyone's help. Turns out a second application of ScratchX, this time with a foam applicator pad and working it in for 60-90 seconds, did the trick. Also helped with the scratches, as I originally wanted!

All this talk of "abrasive" made me afraid of using it for too long on my car. I think the main problem was that I only worked it in for 15-20 seconds, wiping the ample residue off before it had time to "diminish" and continue working.

While I was down there I saw a lot of stuff in my paint and I think I may actually try claybar. I'm also de-rusting a couple of rock chips right now and will be applying langka tomorrow, so I'm not going to wax yet. Is it ok to wash my car now? (used ScratchX a few minutes ago)

Nevermind, washed in those areas and now it looks even worse. Guess I may take it to a shop or something. Don't want to keep failing myself and make it worse.

 

[audiqtr]

Nevermind, washed in those areas and now it looks even worse. Guess I may take it to a shop or something. Don't want to keep failing myself and make it worse.

What you need is a product less abrasive than ScratchX. Over the counter, I believe Meg's #7 is finer than MegX, but you still will need to buff forever OR find someone with an orbital and do it for you in 5 minutes.

For future reference, always Clay before polishing to make sure surface is free of contaminants. If you polish a dirty surface, you'll be more harm than good. 5 Scratches will become 50...

 

[rook]

X2, but remember all Polishes and Compounds ARE Abrasive. Finishing polishes are LESS abrasive. If they weren't abrasive, you wouldn'e be able to FIX any point imperfections.

Every fluid on the planet is abrasive, lets not get technical. For our purposes, foam pad glaze and hand glaze are non-abrasive. They are used to fill the surface imperfections created from compounds. 3M, Meguiars and others make professional lines of product that blow away the crap available at the chain stores.

 

[theliman]

Update...

Worked on it for about 8 hours today. Used a Meguiar's foam applicator, a little more pressure, and at least two minutes for each section. The main difference was that I worked in VERY small sections. Usually like a 2x2 inch area. The haze has actually spread in surface area, because if I were working towards the outside, I feel like only the center of where I was working was fixed, while the edges left a haze. So it is less pronounced, in a bigger area.

I think it looks better, though the picture is deceiving because the car is not directly in the sun. I think at this point I may let it be for now. It's just frustrating because I'm still in the "honeymoon phase" with this truck, and it's black. But really, I think it's only noticeable from a few angles, and no one besides me would notice it unless it were at the right angle under the sun.

However, since I plan on keeping her until she dies - it sounds like polish might finish the job? I would probably take it to a detailer or something to have that done so I don't screw up again, but I'm just wondering if polish might be the thing to finish this, as some have said (unless I want to spend many more hours). Also, some mentioned SwirlX - seems that anything Swirlx would do, ScratchX would do at a greater level so it wouldn't be any help to me here?..

 

[Carl_G]

I have been using a product called Quixx and have been very happy with it. I am not a professional but if what I see in your photo happened to me I would do the following. Try polishing with Quixx #2 tube. If that doesn't work try Quixx #1 then #2. What I learned the hard way over the last few days is start with the finer polish. So try some Quixx. It's about 20 bucks for the kit. Read the instructions carefully and watch a few Youtube videos on it before you start. No need to rush. Hope this helps. I thoroughly researched Quixx before I bought it btw.

 

[flnycus]

wow 8 hours? Ummm ive used scratch x and it is actually very very mild; scratch x 2.0 is actually more abrasive than the original. I use the first one and if after a couple of goes it doesn't come out i use 2.0 and that seems to work, but never more than 30 mins in total they both usually work after that amount of time. (on fine scratches and swirls).

This might be useful guys if you haven't seen it already, its the abrasive order from meguiars!

Aggressiveness Order for New Consumer Products - This will surprise you! - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online

 

[topdown4runner]

Every fluid on the planet is abrasive, lets not get technical. For our purposes, foam pad glaze and hand glaze are non-abrasive. They are used to fill the surface imperfections created from compounds. 3M, Meguiars and others make professional lines of product that blow away the crap available at the chain stores.

I use Meguiars for waxes and the 3M professional for compounds and polishes. Works wonders!

Left side is before, right side is after 2x compound, 2x polish 2x wax.

 

[jbx35]

poorboysworld.com

Use it with a foam pad, it clears up your problem and leaves some very nice shine and protection. Use it with microfiber or foam hand applicator pad and it is just like waxing, but much easier. I just used it yesterday on my shower glass walls and door.

If you already have a nice wax or sealant that you use, looks like some nice water beading in your pic; you can use this for minor spiderwebbing & light scratches. This has NO protection in it. SSR1
poorboysworld.com