What is this part? I broke it and it's part of my suspension

[farmerjon]

Gah! I broke another part, this one seems to have rusted and broken through...

See below... what is the part called and can I fix it myself? The bolt that holds this part to the frame is broken, so the part moved...

The yellow line represents the part, the hole inside the red square is where it's supposed to be bolted - the green line shows where it should be (pointing to the hole)...

Thoughts? Thanks!

 

[kball]

your shock

 

[farmerjon]

your shock

so do I need to replace this if the rusted bolt holding this shock in place has broken? Should I replace both sides of the rear?

 

[kball]

Yes, if one rusted through enough to break I'd replace them both. And don't do any crazy driving since the shocks are what keep the rear springs from falling out if flexed too much.

 

[the great him]

be glad it broke how it did... those rear shocks are a B.I.T.C.H to remove/replace... that top nut is such a PITA.
when i did my lift i actually broke/snapped the studs by bending the shock back and forth to remove it, because that was easier than getting to the nut on the other side of that hole... and yes i had been for the two weeks prior to the install, been spraying penetrating oil in the stud and nut. and cleaned the bowl out of all dirt/rocks/grime/debris i could. so yeah be happy that broke off, it just saved you a ton of work

 

[farmerjon]

be glad it broke how it did... those rear shocks are a B.I.T.C.H to remove/replace... that top nut is such a PITA.
when i did my lift i actually broke/snapped the studs by bending the shock back and forth to remove it, because that was easier than getting to the nut on the other side of that hole... and yes i had been for the two weeks prior to the install, been spraying penetrating oil in the stud and nut. and cleaned the bowl out of all dirt/rocks/grime/debris i could. so yeah be happy that broke off, it just saved you a ton of work

I was thinking that... but it looks like I'll be replacing both sides, so I still have to mess with it... I'm thinking of having the tire place in town do it, is this a good idea? This seems simple enough that they won't mess up, but I could be wrong...

I'm leery of doing it myself, since it's suspension...

 

[farmerjon]

Yes, if one rusted through enough to break I'd replace them both. And don't do any crazy driving since the shocks are what keep the rear springs from falling out if flexed too much.

Thanks for the info, that's scary to think of...

 

[the great him]

Yes, if one rusted through enough to break I'd replace them both. And don't do any crazy driving since the shocks are what keep the rear springs from falling out if flexed too much.

actually your sway bar end-links will limit your rear flex before the rear shocks will, so dont worry about the springs falling out because of a broken shock. but your ride and handling might be a little sketchy at times so yeah take it easy.

id look at the braket toytec sells; Rear Bilstein Shocks for 96-02 4RUN - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits
-you can buy just the eye to stud adapter and source your own shocks, or you can buy this as a kit... this is what i am running in the back. this way i will never have to worry about that PITA upper shock mount ever again... this way is so much user-friendly and much faster too!

 

[farmerjon]

actually your sway bar end-links will limit your rear flex before the rear shocks will, so dont worry about the springs falling out because of a broken shock. but your ride and handling might be a little sketchy at times so yeah take it easy.

id look at the braket toytec sells; Rear Bilstein Shocks for 96-02 4RUN - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits
-you can buy just the eye to stud adapter and source your own shocks, or you can buy this as a kit... this is what i am running in the back. this way i will never have to worry about that PITA upper shock mount ever again... this way is so much user-friendly and much faster too!

Thanks man! I'll check out the Toytec stuff, I might go OEM at this point though... Lift is stock at the moment... I'll have a shop do it, I don't want to mess with this - I should be good for shocks for a long time!

 

[kball]

actually your sway bar end-links will limit your rear flex before the rear shocks will, so dont worry about the springs falling out because of a broken shock. but your ride and handling might be a little sketchy at times so yeah take it easy.

Yep, you're right. I guess I need to stop thinking everyone got rid of their rear sway like I did! :surfer:

 

[farmerjon]

Yep, you're right. I guess I need to stop thinking everyone got rid of their rear sway like I did! :surfer:

lol. I might take mine off sometime but for now, the sway stays...

Still looking for part numbers for the rear shocks - OEM... Can't find any online, it's frustrating...

 

[kball]

How about this?

Tokico Performance Shocks - Aftermarket and OEM Shock Absorbers, Struts and Suspension

 

[farmerjon]

How about this?

Tokico Performance Shocks - Aftermarket and OEM Shock Absorbers, Struts and Suspension

I looked at those and they (Trekmasters) don't seem to be the OEMs if I reading things right, they are a bit stiff... when I search by VIN, they don't come up as part numbers.

 

[cj80cruiser]

Ive yet to replace my rear shocks but doesn't everybody just break these shocks off instead of removing the top nut?

 

[Jayzero911]

Ive yet to replace my rear shocks but doesn't everybody just break these shocks off instead of removing the top nut?

replaced mine w/o problems... Just like any other shock the problem is it spinning. I used this to my advantage sense you can't get much cranking room up there. I set my wrench up there on the nut, spun the shock a little to wedged the wrench up against something and use vice grips to grab the shock and spin it lose. Once lose I continued to spin it by hand tell my wrench and the nut fell. When installing the new shocks I did the same thing in revers to get the nut snug and then fought with the little bit of wrenching room and made sure it was tight. Honestly the front gave me more trouble by not knowing I had to use the bottle jack upside down when installing them.

But then again its it a AZ truck and has zero rust.......

 

[Shibby!]

But then again its it a AZ truck and has zero rust.......

That's the key. If his shaft broke from rust the nut isn't coming off.

I just broke mine out without issue. The rear bottoms require a pry bar (crow bar) to get off as well.

Do not use vise grips on the shaft. Most shocks have a flat spot for a wrench but my Tokico's didn't. I used a leather glove and adjustable pliers to hold onto the part below the bolt (not the shaft) and had a buddy turn the nut on top. He got the crappy job. haha.

Replacement time if you know what you're doing? 1-1.5hours. First time? Maybe 2-2.5 when you get the truck lowered and spare back in. A buddy to help will make it much easier.

I know some might say 20minutes, but I can't even jack my truck and take the spare off in 20 minutes. haha.