What is your oil pressure at idle with a warmed up engine with hot oil?

Here is my old NTP components which did work. And the correct British pipe adapter.
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NPT and BSP are very close, and you can sometimes thread in an NPT sensor to a BSP port and have it not leak. It is better to use the adapter though...

-Charlie
 
I forgot to show my gauge. It’s a Cheapo and temporary. I plan on getting a gauge pod for the A pillar or mount it where the ashtray was.
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I forgot to show my gauge. It’s a Cheapo and temporary. I plan on getting a gauge pod for the A pillar or mount it where the ashtray was.
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I have the same gauage.. lol. How long is that copper line? As mine didn't come in yet.

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It’s 6 foot I think. It should be plenty long to get to the A piller or center dash. I’m going to look for a Stewart Warner Gauge for the install. The above was a cheapo to see what I had for pressure. It can stay in the engine bay for now.


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It’s 6 foot I think. It should be plenty long to get to the A piller or center dash. I’m going to look for a Stewart Warner Gauge for the install. The above was a cheapo to see what I had for pressure. It can stay in the engine bay for now.


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Ok yes 6 ft should be fine. The only problem with a pillar install for me would be I like the hang on handles. I really dont use it but I used to them being there.
I am thinking voltage gauge and atm fluid temp gauge. We pretty much have everything else except fuel pressure at the rail would be nice to have but not needed.

The add ins in the 80s used to go down below the radio. I had an 85 sr5 that had ac and those two gauges added on in the states by the dealer. Oil pressure and voltage was in front of the 5 speed and transfer and below the radio console.

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I’m going to the Napa I have an account with and see if they still stock the Stewart Stevens gauge I put in the CJ7. If they do I’ll proceed with mounting it where the ash tray was and buy the dual gauge A pillar mount in oak and see how close it is to mine. I think it’s the lighter color.

My oil pressure relief must be set around 63psi. I can rev the engine and see 75psi for a second or so and then the pressure drops to around 62psi when the oil is up to temp.


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I have one. And to answer the OPs question at idle I see 4 to 6 lbs of pressure. Rubbing down the highway at 2500 rpm it's around 45 or 50 and max I've seen it was 80 at redline. My sensor is installed in the port that's lower down on the block than the factory pressure switch.

Coming from the world of small block Chevy's where they typically have 30 to 40 psi at idle the super low pressure freaked me out but the fsm specs 4 lbs as normal and the warning light comes on at 2lbs
Same thing. That's one thing I liked about my Yukon, oil pressure gauge and voltage reading.
 
On my way home from work last evening I stopped to jumpstart my girls sisters Kia.

Since my gauge is under hood yet after 15 miles of driving and at least 10min of idle I still had 8psi.

I believe I have the most oil pressure of anyone that answered my question.

Thanks to all that participated.

Gene


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On my way home from work last evening I stopped to jumpstart my girls sisters Kia.

Since my gauge is under hood yet after 15 miles of driving and at least 10min of idle I still had 8psi.

I believe I have the most oil pressure of anyone that answered my question.

Thanks to all that participated.

Gene


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I never hooked mine up yet. As the adapter I got was wrong. I need to get that adapter one of these days. :)

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I never hooked mine up yet. As the adapter I got was wrong. I need to get that adapter one of these days. :)

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I’m coming to terms with the oil light not going off as I start cranking. My Cummins takes around 4 seconds till it starts building oil pressure. So the Toy is better.

One thing that may contribute to the 1 to 2 seconds is I completely flushed the oil cooler. I mean it’s as clean as a brand new one. So that pump has a lot of stuff to fill (volume wise) before it can build pressure.


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So over the summer I switched to 10w30 synthetic and had 10psi for a hot idle.

Also, the oil light went out faster.

Last off stretch I switched back to 5w30 synthetic and I’m feeling like I should have stuck with the 10w30.

I may change oil filter brands and see if that helps.

Edit: this was my idle pressure after a 25 mile drive to work this morning. It’s all but 10psi at 25f for this mornings drive.

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What the heck, bump to the top to see if there are any more out there.

Installing an OEM larger oil filter did nothing for my oil light. So I’m back to using the Motorcraft FL400S from Wally World.


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What the heck, bump to the top to see if there are any more out there.
Installing an OEM larger oil filter did nothing for my oil light. So I’m back to using the Motorcraft FL400S from Wally World.

Ight now I see what you gettin at in other thread.

Same scenario with oil weight change what your 3k rpm pressure ?

New oil pump oil weight change making a difference in pressure build time
"light going off" that sounds like loosy goosy territory with internals.
Experiment here ya go ha.
Since cold oil viscosity made a difference, after finding 3k rpm number,
I'd jump in both feet SAE 30 weight would tell the most and cheapest or a 15w-40.

Edit: Summer time experiment only !!
 
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I’ve run 5w40 Rotella t6 but not in my current rebuilt engine. I may try it next oil change.


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Ight now I see what you gettin at in other thread.

Same scenario with oil weight change what your 3k rpm pressure ?

New oil pump oil weight change making a difference in pressure build time
"light going off" that sounds like loosy goosy territory with internals.
Experiment here ya go ha.
Since cold oil viscosity made a difference, after finding 3k rpm number,
I'd jump in both feet SAE 30 weight would tell the most and cheapest or a 15w-40.

Edit: Summer time experiment only !!


I worry about starving the top end for oil with the heavier oils.


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I've run 10w-40, 30 conventional in 5VZ's 22 yrs right at 500k mi nary a problem lotta proof in the puddin.
3rd Coast area heat your winters are colder.
I read that right this on a rebuild reason for new pump I had 200k engine in mind if so gotta ask.
Symptoms you have what did rebuild consist of ?
 
Total rebuild less an overbore. Heads got taken apart and inspected and new valve stem seals.

I installed the heads and oil pump on the block.

Heads and block were decked for straitness. I think it ended being .008 on everything.


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Any details on rotating assembly bearings Main Rod, Cam comes into play also.
I'm courious, this first thread I remember talking of oil psi problems.
 
New rods and mains. I just thought being use to American engines I’d see more at a hot idle.

Like I said, I seem to have the highest oil pressure at a hot 600rpm idle of anyone reporting.


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