What PM can be done while the transmission is removed?

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Flex plates don't go bad that much, but I guess you can if you want.

Rear engine mount (transmission mount) is easy to do with it out and will help the shifts be a bit smoother with less vibration. Changing all your differential fluids or addressing any leaks will be much easier as well.
 
Call me crazy but since you've removed the transmission I'd pull the timing belt, water pump, oil pump and oil pan. I get that it is quite a bit of extra work but the configuration of how the oil pump, pan and rear main all bolt together is less than ideal unless the paper/felt gaskets don't actually do anything.
 
Call me crazy but since you've removed the transmission I'd pull the timing belt, water pump, oil pump and oil pan. I get that it is quite a bit of extra work but the configuration of how the oil pump, pan and rear main all bolt together is less than ideal unless the paper/felt gaskets don't actually do anything.

huh? Not trying to be mean but those two jobs have nothing to do with each other. Pulling the transmission will not make the timing belt any easier.
 
huh? Not trying to be mean but those two jobs have nothing to do with each other. Pulling the transmission will not make the timing belt any easier.

I could be mistaken but there is a gasket under the rear main seal cover. Perhaps its just a dust cover and isn't necessary to be pulled off then. If that is the case you are correct.
 
What caused you to take so long? I did mine in my drive way in 35 min. that is in and out of the vehicle. Did you remove the dipstick tube?

Its been maybe 6 years since i did mine but I remember it was just a tight fit and took a lot of manipulating to get the alternator out.


Annoying thing it I replaced it because it was making a crazy noise when I started the car. Turned out it was just the dust seal on the shaft was dislodged and was being pushed out and hit the spinning gears when starting. At the time I just replaced with auto zone special since I already had it out. I should have just fixed it and reinstalled the oem. Oh well auto zone special still working fine today.
 
What caused you to take so long? I did mine in my drive way in 35 min. that is in and out of the vehicle. Did you remove the dipstick tube?

Well, then you hold the land speed record. Most people with auto trans find it a nightmare. I did mine as PM during a clutch job, so it was a piece of cake.
 
I did my starter contacts and it took me about 2 hours to get all done. Taking the tire off and putting on jack stands will take about 5 minutes. You need to properly set the contacts inside the solenoid and with that tight spot, it took more time than doing it with starter out.

OP, make sure to use OEM rear seal. NEVER use aftermarket seals for any part of the truck.

You could also replace the shift lever bushings with OEM parts. What about the transfer case F and R oil seals?
 
What caused you to take so long? I did mine in my drive way in 35 min. that is in and out of the vehicle. Did you remove the dipstick tube?

35 minutes???

It took me 35 minutes just to figure out how to get the right amount of swivels and extensions on that top starter bolt.

Granted, now that I know how to do it I could probably get the starter off and out in under an hour but 35 minutes start to finish? Come on.....
 
What caused you to take so long? I did mine in my drive way in 35 min. that is in and out of the vehicle. Did you remove the dipstick tube?

There's two different kinds of starters. Most autos have the larger kind which cannot be removed from that tight spot without removing part of the frame.

Manuals and some lucky dudes with autos have the smaller kind that slips right out and can be rebuild very easily. I'm guessing you are one of those lucky few.
 
I could be mistaken but there is a gasket under the rear main seal cover. Perhaps its just a dust cover and isn't necessary to be pulled off then. If that is the case you are correct.

If I remember correctly when I did my rear main, there is not a gasket just a bead of RTV/FIPG.

I don't think it holds any oil back so it is essentially a dust cover. I believe I just left it alone and bolted it back up.

I did clean up the portion of the oil pan that gets exposed when you pull the rear main seal "cover" off.

Don't forget that two of the oil pan bolts hold that cover on. I pried the hell out of that cover until I realized two of the oil pan bolts hold it in place (in addition to the other botls).

It's probably the reason why I have a small leak in that area now....:redbrick::redbrick::redbrick:
 
There's two different kinds of starters. Most autos have the larger kind which cannot be removed from that tight spot without removing part of the frame.

Manuals and some lucky dudes with autos have the smaller kind that slips right out and can be rebuild very easily. I'm guessing you are one of those lucky few.

You don't have to remove part of the frame but there is only one way to orientate it to get it out through the wheel well. You have to remove the brake line bracket and push the line out of the way also.

I forgot that there are some 3rd gens with different starters and if I remember correctly, 2wd starter removal is easier also.
 
You don't have to remove part of the frame but there is only one way to orientate it to get it out through the wheel well. You have to remove the brake line bracket and push the line out of the way also.

I forgot that there are some 3rd gens with different starters and if I remember correctly, 2wd starter removal is easier also.

I did remove the brake line bracket (even bent the line a little) and there was no way it was ever coming out, ever. Was a complete pain of a job! I think newer years might have a slightly different configuration though, such as the transmission tube being relocated.
 
My Bad

Ok guys I didn't mean to get you all wound up with my comment, I'm just stating the fact that's what it took me to do it. I turn wrench for a living for the last 28 years and I have invested in tools to get my job done in a timely manner, being a flat rate mechanic I have to be smart with my time in order to make money and having the correct tools for the job. I did remove the dipstick tube next to it and I also removed the bracket for the rack in order for me to shimmy the starter out and I do have the bigger starter since it's an automatic (1.8kw) versus the manual (1.4kw). It also helps when you have air tools at hand. :cheers:
 
Video?

35 minutes???

It took me 35 minutes just to figure out how to get the right amount of swivels and extensions on that top starter bolt.

Granted, now that I know how to do it I could probably get the starter off and out in under an hour but 35 minutes start to finish? Come on.....

Do I need to make a video to prove it? If ever another starter comes my way I just might.
 
You definitely should make a video if you ever need to do it again. Maybe you are doing something differently that none of us have figured out.

No one is wound up, we are just baffled that you can do it so quickly. Many of the guys on here including myself have years of experience turning a wrench.

Again, now that I've done it and know how the starter needs to be orientated to be removed, I can do it a lot quicker...Just not 35 mins start to finish quick.

:cheers:
 

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