What relay powers the stereo?

[calimobber]

I want to power the stereo off my second battery. So I'm trying to find out what relay powers the stereo? Anyone know?

I think I have a factory amp so I guess that needs power as well. Hummm??

 

[durrell]

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL...ypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/be/audsy/loca.pdf

Does that help?

 

[Singtoe]

I want to power the stereo off my second battery. So I'm trying to find out what relay powers the stereo? Anyone know?

I think I have a factory amp so I guess that needs power as well. Hummm??

There is no stereo relay. It gets power directly from the key (ignition switch). Just tie the second battery in parallel with the original battery and all should be well.

 

[calimobber]

humm well thats a bummer. I was afraid of that after reading electrical diagrams. The battery's are in parallel on a relay but powering the ignition to play the radio waste much more power than the stereo alone. Maybe Ill just wait untill I install an aftermarket radio to worry about it I guess. Thanks

 

[Singtoe]

Turn the key on the acc position and it will only power the radio and anything that you turn on. No wasted electricity.

 

[ironhippy]

I'm doing this soon.

I am going to splice the head unit's wiring harness to pull it off. I will have an aux fuse panel hooked up to the 2nd battery and a 10 amp fused wire running from the aux fuse panel to the stereo harness. I'll then add a on-off-on switch to the power going to the HU. The first "on" will be the line the from the 2nd fuse panel, the other "on" will be the original power line from the stereo harness. The "default" for the switch will be pointing to the 2nd battery, the switch will only be flipped if something kills the 2nd battery and I have to drive for a significant amount of time. This switch will be somewhat hidden as it shouldn't be used regularly. I considered just leaving quick disconnects so I could manually connect the wires.

EDIT: The above may need to use a relay depending on the AMP rating of the on-off-on switch.

Once I get that hooked up, the stereo will be powered from the 2nd battery, but that won't be too useful because the car will have to "on" in order to turn on the stereo so I will also have an on-off-on switch hooked up to the ignition line of the wiring harness. The first "on" will be the original ignition line of the harness so the stereo will function as normal, the other "on" will be constant low amp line coming from the aux fuse panel which will turn the the radio on regardless if the key is in the ignition. The off will obviously turn the radio off.

I will have a build thread that'll document this once I get it all set up. I already have my stereo's ignition line hooked up to a relay and a switch so I can flip the switch and the radio will turn on regardless.

 

[Singtoe]

You guys are making this way to complicated. For the stock radio, the stock battery will power it for a long time without the truck running.

If you guys are running a Big amps and need a 2nd battery, run the amps on the second battery and use a dual battery isolator. This will keep the batteries from discharging one another. You can listen to the radio without the car running (Key in the ACC position)and the radio will take power from the stock battery and the amps will take power from the 2nd battery. When the car is running, the dual battery isolator will charge both batters at the same time.

Running switches and relays will lead to more issues down the road. IE Forgetting to turn off the switches and runs the battery down. Charging issues if you don't have the switch and relays set up right. And where are going to install all the relays, they are quite big and bulkly.

 

[ironhippy]

my dual battery setup has an isolator to ensure they don't discharge each other and a solenoid for when I need them to join together.

My headunit will be wired to my 2nd battery so I can run it while camping/parked and not worry about it effecting the main battery. My switches are so I can power the headunit without using the starting battery's power (or the key) at all.

I agree my setup is complicated but I wanted the ability to power my headunit (along with many other accessories) without worrying about draining my starting battery. If I drain my 2nd battery, I can just start up the truck and it'll charge both the batteries.
If my main battery dies, I can engage the solenoid and jump the main battery from the 2nd battery. The only time I'll be unable to start is if both batteries die.

I am only using 40 AMP relays for my interior wiring and they are pretty small, I currently have 2 installed behind my dash (along with 2 sirius radio boxes) with room for more. Again, I have an isolator for the batteries and all the dual battery hardware is housed in the engine bay. I also installed a CS-144 140 AMP alternator to help charge the batteries.