What weight oil?
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Marky Mark
New member
Is this your first oil change? If it is your long over due for one. Recommended every 5,000 miles. I use 5w30 Quaker High Mileage oil. 5.5 Qt. Fram oil filter.
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echo4tango
New member
If you live in a really cold place where temps are below 0 during the winter then run a 5w30 .
If you live in a very hot place such as where i live where temps are normaly 110 then 10w30 is the way to go
If your temps fall somewhere in between then just go with a 5w30
DO NOT USE FRAM - they are junk and most of them will allow dirty oil back into the oil pan due to the crappy design on their ADBV
Napa filters are the way to go if you want a long engine life. not bad for a 5 dollar filter.
K&N are top of the line but you also pay the price 12.00 a filter
No matter how often you change oil ( i do my oil change at 15,000miles) Always change your filter every 5,000 or 3 months which ever comes first
If you live in a very hot place such as where i live where temps are normaly 110 then 10w30 is the way to go
If your temps fall somewhere in between then just go with a 5w30
DO NOT USE FRAM - they are junk and most of them will allow dirty oil back into the oil pan due to the crappy design on their ADBV
Napa filters are the way to go if you want a long engine life. not bad for a 5 dollar filter.
K&N are top of the line but you also pay the price 12.00 a filter
No matter how often you change oil ( i do my oil change at 15,000miles) Always change your filter every 5,000 or 3 months which ever comes first
jeober
New member
OR, if you change your oil a lot and your climate is seasonal then you could use 5w30 in the winter and 10w30 in warmer weather. Use the 10w30 if and when you can -- it's a better lubricant and will hold its viscosity longer as it needs less viscosity index improvers.
echo4tango
New member
Thicker Oil is NOT better in newer cars
The reason that oil viscosities have gotten thinner is because bearing clearances have become smaller.
Using thicker oils will interfere with oil flowing to the top of the valve train and the oil pressure will increase due to heavier oil being pumped into tight spots.
In a worn engine it may be okay to increase the viscosity of the oil because the bearing clearances have become larger.
Toyota engines need 5w30- :thumb3:
The reason that oil viscosities have gotten thinner is because bearing clearances have become smaller.
Using thicker oils will interfere with oil flowing to the top of the valve train and the oil pressure will increase due to heavier oil being pumped into tight spots.
In a worn engine it may be okay to increase the viscosity of the oil because the bearing clearances have become larger.
Toyota engines need 5w30- :thumb3:
2000t4r4wd
New member
I use 5-30 in the winter and 10-30 in the summer
Why would it make a difference over 0W30 or 5W30?
My understanding of SAE labeling is that a quality 0W30, 5W30, 10W30 etc. will basically perform the same in warm/hot climate. It's the "30" that matters here.
The 0W,5W,10W (W="winter") will matter in cold climate start-ups until the engine reaches operating temps.
jeober
New member
You're correct regarding the viscosity consideration.
Multi-weight oils use viscosity index improvers which are long chain polymers that reverse compensate to reduce oil thinning at higher temperature. So a 5W30 oil would start with a thinner base stock than the similar type 10W30 oil but use more VI improvers to achieve the viscosity of a 30 weight oil at 100^C. Some types of oil such as synthetics may need less VI improvers than others to cover a weight range.
This is good for viscosity but VI improvers are displacing a finite amount of the oil lubricant and the VI improvers might shear over time/temperature and the oil will lose some viscosity.
Cold start lubrication is also important so one needs to consider a balance here. The OEMs do this with their grade recommendation.
CJ3Flyr
Super Moderator
You should, per Toyota, be using 5w-20.
Only because I slept in a Holiday Inn express last night and I've been spending time at BITOG
.... YouTube - Holiday Inn Express - Jeopardy
Only because I slept in a Holiday Inn express last night and I've been spending time at BITOG
.... YouTube - Holiday Inn Express - Jeopardy:cheers:You're correct regarding the viscosity consideration.
Multi-weight oils use viscosity index improvers which are long chain polymers that reverse compensate to reduce oil thinning at higher temperature. So a 5W30 oil would start with a thinner base stock than the similar type 10W30 oil but use more VI improvers to achieve the viscosity of a 30 weight oil at 100^C. Some types of oil such as synthetics may need less VI improvers than others to cover a weight range.
This is good for viscosity but VI improvers are displacing a finite amount of the oil lubricant and the VI improvers might shear over time/temperature and the oil will lose some viscosity.
Cold start lubrication is also important so one needs to consider a balance here. The OEMs do this with their grade recommendation. :iagree: 100%, as usual
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Koz
New member
One of my pet peeves is motor oil. I have researched and read every bit of info/data I could find about motor oil. I’d like to share what I’ve learned and experienced about the life blood of an engine.
Conventional Oil (dino) vs Synthetic – Even though petroleum refining is an advanced science, small amounts of contaminants, such as sulfur and reactive hydrocarbons cannot be completely removed from petroleum, and end up in motor oil base stocks. Synthetics base stock are designed in a lab and therefore do not contain these contaminants. So right from the start petroleum oil is contaminated.
Petroleum oil molecules are of varying sizes. So, as petroleum oil heats up, the smaller molecules begin to burn off. Deposits and sludge are left behind to coat the inside of your engine. In addition, as smaller particles burn off, the larger, heavier molecules are all that is left to protect the engine. Unfortunately, these larger particles do not flow nearly as well and tend to blanket the components of your engine which only exacerbates the heat problem as friction builds-up. Synthetic oils, on the other hand, because they are not purified, but rather designed within a lab for lubrication purposes, are comprised of molecules of uniform size and shape. Therefore, even if synthetic oil does burn a little, the remaining oil has the same chemical characteristics that it had before the burn off. There are no smaller molecules to burn-off and no heavier molecules to leave behind. Bottom line is synthetics contain almost no contaminants compared to petroleum oils since they are not a refined product. As a result, if oil burn-off does occur, there are few, if any, contaminants left behind to leave sludge and deposits on engine surfaces.
Petroleum oils also contain paraffins (wax), they tend to thicken up considerably in cold temperatures. Additives are used to help keep the oil from thickening too much due to these waxy contaminants. Synthetic oils, on the other hand, contain no paraffins. Therefore, they need no additive to help with cold temperature operation. Moreover, even without the additives, synthetics flow at far lower temperatures than petroleum oils. Remember additives cause contamination!
Since synthetics contain no additives to aid with cold temperature flow, synthetics maintain their cold temperature flow characteristics for a long period of time. Additive depletion is not a factor in the cold temperature flow of synthetic oils. Synthetics do not thicken due to burn-off. So, this is not a factor in cold temperature flow either. Of course, the obvious result is that you don't need to change synthetic oil as often to regain adequate cold temperature flow.
Water causes acids to be created within the oil and corrosion will begin within your engine. The main way water gets into your oil is from condensation. This is caused by temperature changes. The most common cause is short trips that do not allow the engine to reach operating temp, which burns off the condensation. There are additives in the oil which are designed to combat these acids. Synthetics contain higher quality and a higher quantity of these additives in order to properly neutralize these acids for a longer period of time. These additives do deplete over time, but it takes longer with synthetic oils than with petroleum oils.
Here are a couple important facts; Additives are also used to keep oil contamination in check and to keep it from damaging your engine. These additives keep potentially wear causing contaminants suspended and contained in your oil so they don't cause excessive wear or deposit build-up within your engine before your filter can remove them. Synthetics have higher additive treat rates than petroleum oils (in addition to using higher quality, more expensive, additives), so they can perform this contaminant control function for a much longer period of time than petroleum oil can.
To control acids the Total Base Number (TBN) describes the acid neutralization ability of oil, with higher TBN oils providing longer lasting acid neutralization. Synthetics nearly always have higher TBN values than petroleum oils do. The result: longer and better acid neutralization capability allowing for extended drain use.
Every single aspect (which there are many) of what oil provides for your engine is better in synthetic oil, including how long you can use the oil before contamination is a problem. The most important difference is the pour rate. This one aspect is the biggest contributor to engine ware. This is how long it takes the oil to reach vital parts of the engine during start-up (especially when cold). You wouldn’t believe the difference between dino and synthetic. The same difference in this one aspect is typical of ALL the other aspects in dino vs synthetic.
The Best Viscosity to Use - 0w-20, 5w-20, 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, all will provide approx the same protection against thermal breakdown (Excessive heat at operating temp), being that they all have the 30 weight rating. The difference is in the pour rate (ability to flow when cold). There is a little more to the "w" rating then just being better for cold or winter temps. Up to 80% of engine wear is from cold starts. This does not only pertain to cold weather. Cold start means the first start of the day after the engine has completely cooled/drained down. This wear accrues in the time the oil takes to get to the vital parts of the engine (bearings, cams, lifters, etc). The quicker the oil gets to those vital areas the less wear. That being said, the lower the weight the better/faster the oil will flow during start-up. The best viscosity to use is the lowest viscosity that falls within the OEM recommended range. Petro based oil is affected more by the "w" rating, that's why you see the graph in the owner's manual with several different viscosities. In reality, 0w-30 quality synthetic oil will cover that whole range in the owner's manual. 0w-30 will provide better wear protection then 10w-30 no matter what the temp!
Oil Filter Longevity - The OEM filter has proven to still provide safe protection past 10K miles. This also applies to many after market filters. The rule of thumb is up to one year. I'm not sure where the myth started that an oil filter only lasts for the OEM recommend change interval but there is no need to change it that often. Years ago the OEM recommended the filter only needed to be changed every OTHER oil change. There is no reason to guess at how long the oil or filter will last, you simply can send a sample of the oil at 10/12K miles (Synthetic) 8K miles (Dino) and you know for sure how long you can safely use the oil and filter. I use - Blackstone Labs
Again, I feel that the oil is the life blood of any engine and because these engines are so gentle on the oil it makes good sense to take advantage of being able to safely extend the oil change intervals (OCI). I use Amoil 0w-30, which is known to be one of the best group 4 pure synthetics made. It is also known to probibly be the best oil to use for extended OCI. I use this oil in my V8 4Runner with a bypass system that has over 40K miles on it (5 years). That is over 40K miles on the same oil (Amsoil Nano filter change once a year). I've had a UOA done before each filter change and the reports show no end in sight.
Amsoil Bypass System - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/perfo...re/10277-amsoil-full-flow-bypass-install.html
Koz
Conventional Oil (dino) vs Synthetic – Even though petroleum refining is an advanced science, small amounts of contaminants, such as sulfur and reactive hydrocarbons cannot be completely removed from petroleum, and end up in motor oil base stocks. Synthetics base stock are designed in a lab and therefore do not contain these contaminants. So right from the start petroleum oil is contaminated.
Petroleum oil molecules are of varying sizes. So, as petroleum oil heats up, the smaller molecules begin to burn off. Deposits and sludge are left behind to coat the inside of your engine. In addition, as smaller particles burn off, the larger, heavier molecules are all that is left to protect the engine. Unfortunately, these larger particles do not flow nearly as well and tend to blanket the components of your engine which only exacerbates the heat problem as friction builds-up. Synthetic oils, on the other hand, because they are not purified, but rather designed within a lab for lubrication purposes, are comprised of molecules of uniform size and shape. Therefore, even if synthetic oil does burn a little, the remaining oil has the same chemical characteristics that it had before the burn off. There are no smaller molecules to burn-off and no heavier molecules to leave behind. Bottom line is synthetics contain almost no contaminants compared to petroleum oils since they are not a refined product. As a result, if oil burn-off does occur, there are few, if any, contaminants left behind to leave sludge and deposits on engine surfaces.
Petroleum oils also contain paraffins (wax), they tend to thicken up considerably in cold temperatures. Additives are used to help keep the oil from thickening too much due to these waxy contaminants. Synthetic oils, on the other hand, contain no paraffins. Therefore, they need no additive to help with cold temperature operation. Moreover, even without the additives, synthetics flow at far lower temperatures than petroleum oils. Remember additives cause contamination!
Since synthetics contain no additives to aid with cold temperature flow, synthetics maintain their cold temperature flow characteristics for a long period of time. Additive depletion is not a factor in the cold temperature flow of synthetic oils. Synthetics do not thicken due to burn-off. So, this is not a factor in cold temperature flow either. Of course, the obvious result is that you don't need to change synthetic oil as often to regain adequate cold temperature flow.
Water causes acids to be created within the oil and corrosion will begin within your engine. The main way water gets into your oil is from condensation. This is caused by temperature changes. The most common cause is short trips that do not allow the engine to reach operating temp, which burns off the condensation. There are additives in the oil which are designed to combat these acids. Synthetics contain higher quality and a higher quantity of these additives in order to properly neutralize these acids for a longer period of time. These additives do deplete over time, but it takes longer with synthetic oils than with petroleum oils.
Here are a couple important facts; Additives are also used to keep oil contamination in check and to keep it from damaging your engine. These additives keep potentially wear causing contaminants suspended and contained in your oil so they don't cause excessive wear or deposit build-up within your engine before your filter can remove them. Synthetics have higher additive treat rates than petroleum oils (in addition to using higher quality, more expensive, additives), so they can perform this contaminant control function for a much longer period of time than petroleum oil can.
To control acids the Total Base Number (TBN) describes the acid neutralization ability of oil, with higher TBN oils providing longer lasting acid neutralization. Synthetics nearly always have higher TBN values than petroleum oils do. The result: longer and better acid neutralization capability allowing for extended drain use.
Every single aspect (which there are many) of what oil provides for your engine is better in synthetic oil, including how long you can use the oil before contamination is a problem. The most important difference is the pour rate. This one aspect is the biggest contributor to engine ware. This is how long it takes the oil to reach vital parts of the engine during start-up (especially when cold). You wouldn’t believe the difference between dino and synthetic. The same difference in this one aspect is typical of ALL the other aspects in dino vs synthetic.
The Best Viscosity to Use - 0w-20, 5w-20, 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, all will provide approx the same protection against thermal breakdown (Excessive heat at operating temp), being that they all have the 30 weight rating. The difference is in the pour rate (ability to flow when cold). There is a little more to the "w" rating then just being better for cold or winter temps. Up to 80% of engine wear is from cold starts. This does not only pertain to cold weather. Cold start means the first start of the day after the engine has completely cooled/drained down. This wear accrues in the time the oil takes to get to the vital parts of the engine (bearings, cams, lifters, etc). The quicker the oil gets to those vital areas the less wear. That being said, the lower the weight the better/faster the oil will flow during start-up. The best viscosity to use is the lowest viscosity that falls within the OEM recommended range. Petro based oil is affected more by the "w" rating, that's why you see the graph in the owner's manual with several different viscosities. In reality, 0w-30 quality synthetic oil will cover that whole range in the owner's manual. 0w-30 will provide better wear protection then 10w-30 no matter what the temp!
Oil Filter Longevity - The OEM filter has proven to still provide safe protection past 10K miles. This also applies to many after market filters. The rule of thumb is up to one year. I'm not sure where the myth started that an oil filter only lasts for the OEM recommend change interval but there is no need to change it that often. Years ago the OEM recommended the filter only needed to be changed every OTHER oil change. There is no reason to guess at how long the oil or filter will last, you simply can send a sample of the oil at 10/12K miles (Synthetic) 8K miles (Dino) and you know for sure how long you can safely use the oil and filter. I use - Blackstone Labs
Again, I feel that the oil is the life blood of any engine and because these engines are so gentle on the oil it makes good sense to take advantage of being able to safely extend the oil change intervals (OCI). I use Amoil 0w-30, which is known to be one of the best group 4 pure synthetics made. It is also known to probibly be the best oil to use for extended OCI. I use this oil in my V8 4Runner with a bypass system that has over 40K miles on it (5 years). That is over 40K miles on the same oil (Amsoil Nano filter change once a year). I've had a UOA done before each filter change and the reports show no end in sight.
Amsoil Bypass System - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/perfo...re/10277-amsoil-full-flow-bypass-install.html
Koz
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rook
New member
What fileter system are you using, Koz?
The thread below indicates there are problems with the Amsoil EA057
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/66618-blew-my-03-v6-engine-then-i-found.html
Koz
New member
The Amsoil filter problem (Low capacity tiny filters) with Toyota engines were with OEM replacement filters, not the big extended capacity filters (Which are the ones I use). Any one who experienced any failure due to the use of these small filters were covered by the Amsoil warranty and were fully compensated for ALL the costs associated with the failures. These problem filters have been taken off the market.
Koz
Filthy4Runner
New member
What's the best oil
I have a 2007 Toyota 4Runner v6 limited 4wd.
Lifted 3 inch in front and 2 in back. Levels out
But I was wondering what is the best oil to use for my engine. I have been using just oil from the Toyota dealer. But wanting to maybe switch to mobile one or something else better. What are your suggestions? Thanks
I have a 2007 Toyota 4Runner v6 limited 4wd.
Lifted 3 inch in front and 2 in back. Levels out
But I was wondering what is the best oil to use for my engine. I have been using just oil from the Toyota dealer. But wanting to maybe switch to mobile one or something else better. What are your suggestions? Thanks
Bumbo
New member
The best oil is the oil that's fresh and clean... change it regularly and you will be rewarded. Don't extend your maintenance intervals even if you buy a premium brand oil.
Use the weight called out for in the manual or oil cap... change it often, and use an OEM filter.
Personally I stick with conventional oil, nothing special or fancy, whatever I can get a good deal on. I stick to the big names like Chevron, Valvoline, Pensoil... I dont care for synthetics... at least at 200k miles on my 2004, it doesn't need it, nor has it ever had it.
Regarding the dealer and oil... they buy whatever is "flavor of the month" in 55 gal barrels from the lowest bidder. Don't think its anything special either.
Point being, don't complicate oil changes... just do them.
^^^^this is good advice
