What would you do? (lift options)

typehxr1

New member
All,

This site is awesome! Been lurking since March. Purchased a '13 black Limited 4x4 new in April. Recently changed jobs and also purchased an '06 black SR5 4x4 w/114k miles that just had the 100k mile service done and got new 265/70/17 Falken Rocky Mountain tires. Yep, two black 4x4 Runners in the span of 4 months.

Sooo, I started initially wanting to level. Truth be told, I could get a front spacer and be done with it. The more I thought about it, if I or a shop I hire takes the wheels off, why not raise AND level it? I see lots of guys doing the Bilstein/FJ combo with DayStar or Cornfed spacers. I read that many of you say the ride w/the spacers is fine/good, but I also read that those who switch to suspension-based lifts (coil overs, shocks, etc) notice a significant difference after switching from spacers. For me, spending extra for new springs/shocks on a 7yr old vehicle can only help....especially if I get lift out of it.

This leaves me with the popular Toytec Ultimate and OME 3" lifts. I would lean towards the Toytec as it is adjustable. I would prefer slightly raked forward rather than backward if I could not get 100% level. The Toytec would allow me to tweak if it didn't look right after installation.

I have also seen stuff from Fox and Radflo, etc but wonder if this is overkill for my application. The '06 will be a daily driver with lots of highway miles and going to work down very long gravel rig roads on ranches/farms in South Texas. I do not off-road or rock climb. The most I would do is drive through a median to get to a feeder road to avoid construction or a wreck, drive out in a field to play with my Dobermans, or drive fast down the aforementioned gravel roads. Due to being in Texas, I am also more prone to mud and rain than snow (if that even matters).

I talked with a guy that sells the Fox setup and he stated that regardless of the system I bought that anything 3" or higher, he would strongly suggest upper control arms and some other components. Throwing UCAs into the mix starts increasing the price no matter what I choose. That is the other thing...spending $3k or more on a vehicle that only ran me $13k. On the '13 that I have, it would be a no brainer to get the nicest setup.

So, guys with Toytec or OME, what other additional components did you need? Guys that switched to suspension from spacers, looking back, would you have skipped spacers all together? Any feedback is welcome. I hope I have provided enough info about my rig and how it will be used. FWIW, the search button is awesome, which is why this post wasn't totally noob-dumb (hopefully)

Wanted to start off right and make this post worthwhile with some pics :whoo:

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It sounds like for your needs you should check out the FJs/5100s if you want to stick with 265s or go with one of the toytec setups if you want the full 3"

The radflo, fox, and other high end names are going to be overkill if you're not planning on off-roading. While the shocks are much nicer and rebuildable, they also require maintenance and can become noisy due to heims instead of poly bushings. You will also likely be able to buy your full OME/TT lift easily for the price of the front or rear fox or radflo.

If you feel like you're going to need to get it exactly level then you should probably get the adjustable shocks, although you're going to be able to come very close (and save a few bucks) by going with the non adjustable version.

As for the UCAs, those are NOT a necessity when you get to 3" but they do make the ride better typically. Some people claim to have problems with alignment while others don't after 3". I'm not sure if it's subjective or if some people just don't care/notice.

If you do 3" you'll probably also want some extended rear sway bar links, those are $40-120 depending on where/what you get. I don't think there is a big difference in what you're getting among the different options.

Oh and welcome to the forum :bigok:
 
Thanks for the reply! Sounds like I was on the right track (adjustable and not super high end). I am not familiar with the rear sway bar extensions you mentioned. What is their function/purpose?
 
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I would recommend the Bilstein 5100 upfront and raise the perch a bit to level or raise a bit then a spacer in the rear with Bilsteins to match.

everything else is overkill, even the Toytec Ultimate.

If you want to keep the stock ride and just level go with a kit that puts a spacer on top of the stock coilover so you don't need to disassemble.
 
I would recommend the Bilstein 5100 upfront and raise the perch a bit to level or raise a bit then a spacer in the rear with Bilsteins to match.

everything else is overkill, even the Toytec Ultimate.


Any advantage in replacing stock springs in both the front and rear?
 
Any advantage in replacing stock springs in both the front and rear?

For the type of driving you are doing it would be minimal probably. I know the 5th Gen SR5 suspension sucked, which is an understatement (but I knew I was lifting it), but am unsure of the 4th Gen. If you are happy with the ride there is no need to mess with that. But if you want something stiffer and to lift then sure go with some OME stuff.

All depends on what your final outcome is. Figure that out and then do it once. That has been my moto, at which I have failed a couple of times, and will continue to follow with the rest of my build. As well as the build of my FRS.
 
I would recommend the Bilstein 5100 upfront and raise the perch a bit to level or raise a bit then a spacer in the rear with Bilsteins to match.

everything else is overkill, even the Toytec Ultimate.

.

2nd this. Your dampers are probably sorta beat. Replace them with the bisteins. Raise the front and add a spring spacer in the rear. Cost effective and good ride quality.
 
I will get some clarity after meeting up with Mike. I am digging the Bilstein 5100/OME combo but I am open to spending more on the TT Ultimate in case I want more lift later.... then I could adjust and not buy more stuff. Anxious to see the Shrockworks in person too.
 
If I could do it all over again, I would have bought regular Monroe replacements front/rear from the local auto parts store. Then I would have bought Old Man Emu coils front/rear from an online vendor.

This would give me less bouncy ride, the same lift, and would mean that I wouldn't have to replace suspension components ever again. The factory coils are just too soft. They were clearly designed to ride good to appease the masses since these were $40K rigs when new. But a truck like this needs a higher spring rate. So OME coils and any shocks of your choosing would be the best approach IMO.
 
Hopefully Derek got some help today, and you better post up some pics once you have some more altitude under your new 4runner!
 
I based my suspension off of budget, V8 and mileage(170)

On a 170k truck is it worth it to buy $800 in springs and struts? And its my first time in my life ever lifting a vehicle, all past vehicles went down and thats including my 03 volvo xc90(dumped that 4")

So i opted to do FJ Coils found on fj forums for $80 shipped taken off at 5k
Found tacoma trd shocks/struts for $125 take offs @ 20miles

Basically new suspension for $200 and should net .5" front and 3/4" rear with a v8.

Add in daystar 2.5/1.5 budget boost and my tab comes in total @ $325 with a net of 3" suspension lift.

Add in 275/70/18's (33" tire vs stock 16" wheel 30" tire) i should net a 4.5"-5" over all lift
 
so what i am wondering is weather people notice a difference in the drive from stock to the spacer? i love how my t4r drives, and want to lift about an inch and a half so i think spacers are the way to go. but i dont want to down grade the great drive i get with my t4r at the moment.
 
so what i am wondering is weather people notice a difference in the drive from stock to the spacer? i love how my t4r drives, and want to lift about an inch and a half so i think spacers are the way to go. but i dont want to down grade the great drive i get with my t4r at the moment.

nope
 

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