What’s the Cost Difference - 2” or 3” Lift?

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Pekoe1111

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I did a 2” OME spring lift in my 2001 and it cost a few hundred for the springs and a few for my mechanism to install - so about $900.

Understanding that a 3” lift will require some caster correction, etc., what’s the ballpark cost for a 3” lift, assuming labor will be a bit more?

Thanks,

BB
 
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It's not that simple.
There are a few options for how you can go about getting another inch [emoji15]
What springs and shocks do you currently have on your rig?
 
absalom said:
Do you need 3"? I'm a firm believer in low CoG. What are your plans for the rig?
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I did OME 881 and 906 on my 2001 for 2” and the front ended up about an inch lower than the rear. Someone mentioned adding a .25” spacer up front to help level. This time maybe I just add a 1” body lift to fit 285/75/16 Duratracs?
 
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absalom said:
Do you need 3"? I'm a firm believer in low CoG. What are your plans for the rig?
Click to expand...

Mostly snow and back dirt roads.

I did OME 881 and 906 on my 2001 for 2” and the front ended up about an inch lower than the rear. Someone mentioned adding a .25” spacer up front to help level. This time maybe I just add a 1” body lift to fit 285/75/16 Duratracs?
 
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Pekoe1111 said:
Mostly snow and back dirt roads.

I did OME 881 and 906 on my 2001 for 2” and the front ended up about an inch lower than the rear. Someone mentioned adding a .25” spacer up front to help level. This time maybe I just add a 1” body lift to fit 285/75/16 Duratracs?
Click to expand...

May I ask how you you know where you were low? Do you measure from the ground to the top of the wheel well/flares?
 
Yup. $30 extra if you buy the Diff Drop kit, or like $5 if you use hardware store parts.

And, I wish Id only gone 1.5-2" instead of 3" (though it has settles to more like 2.5 with the weight, which was a big reason I went with heavy springs in the first place).
 
Lindenwood said:
Yup. $30 extra if you buy the Diff Drop kit, or like $5 if you use hardware store parts.

And, I wish Id only gone 1.5-2" instead of 3" (though it has settles to more like 2.5 with the weight, which was a big reason I went with heavy springs in the first place).
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Why did you wish you went with less lift? Most people wish they went higher!

About extra parts for a 3” lift, in additional to diff drop kit don’t you need other corrections like Panhard brackets, caster correction, etc?

That’s why I asked about cost difference between 2” and 3”. I was under the impression that going to 3” changed the front end geometry enough to require extra hardware.

Thanks
 
Pekoe1111 said:
Why did you wish you went with less lift? Most people wish they went higher!

About extra parts for a 3” lift, in additional to diff drop kit don’t you need other corrections like Panhard brackets, caster correction, etc?

That’s why I asked about cost difference between 2” and 3”. I was under the impression that going to 3” changed the front end geometry enough to require extra hardware.

Thanks
Click to expand...

3" MAY necessitate UCAs to correct caster/camber.($400-700) Also, EIMkeiths rear panhard drop brackets made a big difference.($86+ welding labor) About the only things I can think of.
 
I have 99 talls with 906s, and we’re able to do 5-6s on Trailsoffroad.com. Once sliders and belly pan arrives, I’ll be trying 7s. This is all on stock sized tires ...
 
My co-worker has a 2" BL on 35s with 3" of suspension lift up front, and 3.5" rear lift on factory UCAs
 
Pekoe1111 said:
Why did you wish you went with less lift? Most people wish they went higher!

About extra parts for a 3” lift, in additional to diff drop kit don’t you need other corrections like Panhard brackets, caster correction, etc?

That’s why I asked about cost difference between 2” and 3”. I was under the impression that going to 3” changed the front end geometry enough to require extra hardware.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Why? Because having your rig 3" over stock puts your front suspension close to being maxed out. It's more reasonable to have it around 2" over stock. Really, "stock" height is ideal. That said, how many 3rd gens with 250k miles on the stock springs still sit at stock height? None do, that's how many.
Being lower is better for everything except belly clearance.
The panhard correction kit is even good for a 2" lift.
The diff drop kit is pointless. It doesn't drop the diff; it rolls the diff. Dropping the front diff mounts 1" drops the actual CVs like 3/8" or something. There is several threads regarding whether they're effective/useful or not. Do some diff drop searching and you'll find them. Of course you'll have people saying they're good/effective, but I've found more negative than positive info on them from guys who have done actual before/after measurements and pictures.
As always- this is only my opinion, based off the research I've done and info I've found.
As far as tire clearance, lifting your rig only helps on the street. You have the same range of travel lifted or not, so if you actually take it off-road and compress your suspension, the lift height won't matter.
 
Pekoe1111 said:
Why did you wish you went with less lift? Most people wish they went higher!

About extra parts for a 3” lift, in additional to diff drop kit don’t you need other corrections like Panhard brackets, caster correction, etc?

That’s why I asked about cost difference between 2” and 3”. I was under the impression that going to 3” changed the front end geometry enough to require extra hardware.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I was lazy and skipped the panhard drop and brake line extension, instead electing to simply bend the line and bracket instead.

Still, both aesthetically and for DD safety, I wish I'd have gone more like 1.5" on my 33s. While mathematically my lift was almost directly offset by my wider wheels and increased backspace (I am about 2.5" higher with roughly a 2.5" wider track), Id prefer to go even safer with a lower CG to further reduce highway rollover risk.

And yes, while the diff drop does only lower the actual CVs by about .4", there is no argument that a little bit closer to level is better for a daily-driven rig. Now, how much better it actually is would be difficult to setermine, but certainly more folks over the years have reported blown CV boots without the drop, than have with the drop.
 
So maybe the easiest way to get 3” and use 285/75/16 tires with minimal cost and adjustments is to do the 881/906 OME springs and a 1” body lift.
 
Pekoe1111 said:
So maybe the easiest way to get 3” and use 285/75/16 tires with minimal cost and adjustments is to do the 881/906 OME springs and a 1” body lift.
Click to expand...
Ix687nf.jpg


That was the picture that inspired me to do 99 talls/806s. I've noticed that each time I build a 3rd gen, I place a greater emphasis on ride quality, high-speed wheel control, and safety than I do outright height. My 1st 3rd gen had 3"/4" of lift, and it rode pretty bad compared to what I have now.

I'd rather modify the body to accommodate larger tires, add armor, and simply drag over obstacles.
 
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