Wheel Question - Bead Lock & Hub-Centric

A

ArcticEd

New member
I'm looking at some Pro Comp aftermarket wheels, specifically the 1069 and 1079 series.

Both are 17x9" wheels with a 4.75" backspace. I don't know what the hub bore is but am checking with the vendor and/or manufacturer. Assuming the bore is ok (>106mm if I recall Harper7's advice correctly) they should fit with no need for spacers and be 1.75" closer to the outside/0.26" closer to the inside.

The 1069 is described as "Classic Design" and the 1079 is described as "Classic Bead Lock Design". There are Hub-Centric and non Hub-Centric versions of each wheel.

1079 Series Classic Bead Lock Design

1069 Series Classic Design

Can anyone offer insight into the meaning of the "Bead Lock" and "Hub-Centric" terms and how they might affect fittment for the '10 4R Limited 4X4?

My cosmetic preference would be the 1079 ("Bead Lock Design").

Thanks in advance
 
Register to hide this ad
Those that you are looking at are not real bead lock wheels. They look the part since race trucks run bead locks as I will soon on my Tacoma.:biggrin2:

A bead lock wheel allows you to run single digit tire pressures while off road and keep the tire on the rim. The outer ring bolts on and sandwiches the tire to the inside part of the rim keeping it from coming off.

These bead locks are what I just bought.

17beadlockglossblack-300.jpg~original
 
Last edited:
Hub centric and lug centric has to do with how the wheel is centered on the vehicle.

Our trucks are lug centric. Our wheel lugs are tapered and center the wheel on our truck.

If you have changed a tire on your truck you can tell how the wheel pulls in different directions if you dont center the lug nuts on the wheel as you tighten it down.

Hub centric wheels rely on the hub assembly to center them .
 
ArcticEd said:
I'm looking at some Pro Comp aftermarket wheels, specifically the 1069 and 1079 series.

Both are 17x9" wheels with a 4.75" backspace. I don't know what the hub bore is but am checking with the vendor and/or manufacturer. Assuming the bore is ok (>106mm if I recall Harper7's advice correctly) they should fit with no need for spacers and be 1.75" closer to the outside/0.26" closer to the inside.

The 1069 is described as "Classic Design" and the 1079 is described as "Classic Bead Lock Design". There are Hub-Centric and non Hub-Centric versions of each wheel.

1079 Series Classic Bead Lock Design

1069 Series Classic Design

Can anyone offer insight into the meaning of the "Bead Lock" and "Hub-Centric" terms and how they might affect fittment for the '10 4R Limited 4X4?

My cosmetic preference would be the 1079 ("Bead Lock Design").

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Yep , That size should fit on either of them.Pro Comp has excellent tech support and if you call them they will tell you the exact part numbers that work.I was going to buy some of their rims before and contacted them.

As stated "bead lock design" means they are fake bead lock rims with that piece around the outside looking like a true bead lock as most are these days.True bead lock rims are usually for hard core rock crawlers and more times then not are extremely heavy and bomb proof. http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/76845_faux_bead_lock_wheels/index.html

Th factory 4runner rims are "hub centric" with a hub diameter of 106mm, not lug centric as someone stated.The hub centers the oem rims which have a hole that matches the 106mm.The lug nuts are flat on the bottom and just hold the wheel on, not center it.

The majority of all aftermarket rims are lug centric meaning the lug nuts are conical and the lug holes on the rim are conical to center it. Some rims like what I have are both if I used my caps.Mine have a 108mm bore and the caps/o-rings are 2mm.
Kinda confusing but just google " hub centric vs lug centric"to learn the differences.
 
Last edited:
I just noticed that you are considering the Pro Comp 1079 wheels. I ran these wheels minus the "bead lock" ring on my truck and thought you should know that the polish on these wheels fades really quickly and is really hard to restore. As long as your ok with that then no worries.
 
Thanks to you both for the info. I was also looking at the Method MR301's (below - should fit the exact same but are 8.5" wheels) but the ProComp's were just so much cheaper. The note about the polish is helpful - I guess you get what you pay for!

Method MR301's
 
ArcticEd said:
Thanks to you both for the info. I was also looking at the Method MR301's (below - should fit the exact same but are 8.5" wheels) but the ProComp's were just so much cheaper. The note about the polish is helpful - I guess you get what you pay for!

Method MR301's
Click to expand...

I really like those but I dont know if they will fit. Your probably going to be the 1st to put these on a 2010 4 Runner.
 
ArcticEd,

I do still have the Methods on my T4R... the wheels are of excellent quality for the price IMO, have a nice finish, balanced out great and have no fitment issues. The only thing that somewhat suprised me was that the non-forged wheels aren't made in the US, but rather in China (if I remember correctly). I do have some rub while backing, but that is because I have not yet moved the front inner wheel well liners forward and I'm running 285/70/17s.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 309 (members: 0, guests: 309)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,068
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top